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Help need....for an old Craftsman T/S

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Forum topic by albe79 posted 09-17-2012 06:58 PM 3267 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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albe79

28 posts in 1774 days


09-17-2012 06:58 PM

Hi Jocks,
i need your help!!!
a couple of weeks ago I got an old craftsman bench saw (a 103.22170),

and slowly I am working on its restoration.
Unfortunately now I have stopped because i don’t know how remove the pivot pin.

On one side is a sphere that encompasses the piece crankshaft.
On the other hand seems to only put a pin fasteners.
Have any of you ever had to deal with this pivot pin?
how do I remove it?
thanks to all!!


12 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

2022 posts in 2089 days


#1 posted 09-17-2012 07:54 PM

that one is pretty old. try posting the question, and looking for an OM, at:

http://owwm.org/

http://vintagemachinery.org/

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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albe79

28 posts in 1774 days


#2 posted 09-18-2012 12:45 PM

I have already written about owwm.org.
thanks anyway.

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

1059 posts in 3074 days


#3 posted 09-18-2012 05:43 PM

Yes, I had that model saw and disassembled it. Mine was a King Seeley 103.22160 – it looked almost exactly like what you show here. You can find the manual here

If you look at the assembly drawing in that manual (see page 5), there is a setscrew (#81) that holds the shaft in place. There is a hole in the top of the casting that allows access to the setscrew. Once the setscrew is removed, the shaft will slide out the hole you removed the capscrews for the ball from.

I had this saw for about 20 years. I tuned it up and passed it on to my brother 4 or 5 years ago – he is still using it. The only reason I got rid of it is because I upgraded to one of the old 113 10” table saws from Sears. These are fine pieces of equipment!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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albe79

28 posts in 1774 days


#4 posted 09-20-2012 08:22 PM

Thanks EEngineer,
I was not careful and did not see the setscrew….
now I’m undecided whether to try to remove the blade shaft with bearing, I’m afraid to break something ….

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EEngineer

1059 posts in 3074 days


#5 posted 09-20-2012 08:38 PM

Well, here’s a hot tip – the blade shaft with bearings is easy to remove BUT you can’t replace the bearings. That assembly is actually a modified water pump (??) shaft and the bearings are integral to the shaft. Unfortunately, Sears no longer makes that part. If you Google it, you will find some who have had some luck machining a new shaft from the bearing pump assembly but that’s a lot of work!

Is there any reason you are thinking of removing that shaft? Do you think those bearings are bad? Reason I ask is that I thought the bearings on my saw were gone. I was getting quite a bit of blade movement while cutting and that gave me uneven cuts with semicircular marks on the cut edges. In the end, the bearings were fine. The movement I was getting was due to the Guide (#48 in the manual I referenced in my first post) being loose.

Good luck with this saw. As I said, I think these are fine tools.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

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albe79

28 posts in 1774 days


#6 posted 09-21-2012 12:49 PM

message received, EEngineer!
bearings do not seem all that bad …. I just thought of doing a good thing by giving it control.
Whereas I can not even greased, it is better to leave it in place!
thanks again!

View doggo's profile

doggo

3 posts in 1116 days


#7 posted 11-13-2013 02:34 PM

HELP :)

I have the same saw> Am doing a total restore, was going to replace bearings but seeing as the inside race of each bearing assembly is integral to the shaft (im told), is it at least possible to remove the bearing race covers and clean/repack the grease in them?

I can hear the click click of the bearings inside as i rotate the shaft and they sound like there is some grit in them. How do you get the covers off the bearings without damage?

Doggo

View albe79's profile

albe79

28 posts in 1774 days


#8 posted 11-15-2013 09:30 PM

Hi Doggo,
I’m not a great expert, but I think if you remove the bearing covers then you are no longer able to reassemble them.
If you can hear the click click of the bearings inside, it means that there is a ball inside the bearing is broken….maybe….

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3256 posts in 2136 days


#9 posted 11-17-2013 01:49 AM

Ball bearings rarely break. They get out of round more often. The more they are used the more out of round they become. The cages can break. These contain the balls of the bearing. The races can get ridges in them. The rougher they get the more out of round the balls get. This can cause clicking also. The covers are dust covers. If they are removed they get bent and stretched. It is difficult to replace them and keep the grease inside. This can be done but it is seldom very successful. I have done this to get me through a weekend but I have never been comfortable doing it. I have done this on the cooling fan motor of my air conditioner condenser. It got me through the company time of a Saturday. In fact I let it go for about a month but I did replace the motor. you can also drill through those dust shields and use a needle type injector of a grease gun to push lube inside. You have to keep the metal chips out. Seal it with some silicone. IF the bearing is already making noise get new bearings.

View doggo's profile

doggo

3 posts in 1116 days


#10 posted 11-17-2013 06:21 PM

ok guys…upon closer inspection I was able to remove the dust covers on either side of the arbor, see that there was no lube in the races….so washed out with wd40 then followed up by finger-stuffing as much white lithium grease as I could get into the space. put the dust covers back on (tip on removing: use an exacto knife or similar, get underneath the lip then follow with small fine-edged flat head screw driver and remove like breaking a tire bead seal).

Replaced the covers and now it is much quieter. Not like new, but no clicking at all. Still, would like to replace bearings with new no-lubrication required sealed bearings.

Here is my question. How the heck do you remove the arbor shaft assembly from the cast aluminum housing? I see and removed the set screw that supposedly holds the shaft in. Then tried tapping the shaft from the side with no blade arbor (as the arbor itself doesnt seem to want to come off the shaft) and even after tapping pretty hard detected no movement at all. How do you get that arbor shaft assembly out?

I have access to a machine shop so re-machining the bearing races off the shaft (because supposedly they are machined on) would not be hard, then replace bearings with new sealed (mfr in USA or Japan only, thank you…) versions. Then this saw would be good for another 50 years….

I think these are the bearings i need. Just an example these are chinese I think.
http://www.amazon.com/6202-2rs-Rubber-Bearing-Bearings-6202rs/dp/B008I78R8E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2

I’ll post some pics if anyone interested. Also I googled to find info on re-machining the arbor but no luck, so anyone with info on those links, much appreciated.

regards,
Doggo

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albe79

28 posts in 1774 days


#11 posted 11-17-2013 07:04 PM

Hi Doggo,
I thank you for the explanation of how you have lubricated bearings, but since I am sure that it could be of interest to many, i invite you to share some pictures of operations you made​​, and also for the future.

Regarding the extraction of the shaft, I have not trusted for fear of breaking the “L” support.
It is an aluminum alloy that scares me a little urge it too ….

View doggo's profile

doggo

3 posts in 1116 days


#12 posted 11-18-2013 03:17 AM

After more looking- here is a really good thread on the whole issue of replacing the arbor shaft bearings on these saws…Seems the only option really is to machine off the existing bearing races to allow fitting new replacements.

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77293&p=539422&hilit=craftsman#p539422

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