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Craftsman table saw 113.298030 new-to-me

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Forum topic by Galadriel posted 09-16-2012 08:28 PM 4327 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Galadriel

7 posts in 830 days


09-16-2012 08:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw craftsman 113298030 blade guard miter maintenance

Greetings! I’m new here, but have been enjoying reading since I discovered these forums.

Partly based on some old threads on this site, I went today and got myself a Craigslist Special Craftsman table saw 113.298030. It’s got the original fence but none of the blade guard assembly and no miter gauge. I was hoping you kind folks could advise me on some good, hopefully inexpensive or DIY where possible, accessories for my new saw :)

I have done some woodworking (drama club set building, local hackerspace, fumbling around on my own) but have never had an opportunity to take any classes, so please assume I don’t know too much. Up until today I have done all cutting at home with a single circular saw. Do assume that I wear safety glasses any time any power machinery is turned on, and I am very very fond of my limbs, fingers, eyes, and brain, so I am working hard to learn as much about safety as I can.

My first project, before I make any cuts on the saw, will be locating or making a few push blocks. I’ve found a lot of patterns, though the Kreg push stick is very attractive looking. So, on to the table saw specific questions….

—> What and where should I apply degreaser, grease, lube, etc? The manual I found has a lot of discussion about setup to make sure everything is squared and level and so on, but this fella is a little older and probably needs some TLC.

If nothing else, I won’t be using it until I have a blade guard and spreader in place. I do know, from the helpful threads here (http://lumberjocks.com/topics/34978), that I can get a replacement, even if it’s not Craftsman branded.

So, anyway. The kind gentleman who sold me half his shop for nearly nothing (the table saw and stand, a band saw, a scroll saw and stand, a second smaller table saw and stand, and legs for another stand—everything but the table saw will be projects for another day) said that there are better, aftermarket solutions for blade guards and spreader.

—> What are good products for aftermarket blade guards/spreaders that will fit the Craftsman 113’s? What brands etc should I be looking for? This is my biggie question.

—> Do you have any thoughts on a replacement miter gauge? I can probably get away without it for a long time, but it’d be nice to have. Is this something I can make at all?

Thanks in advance!


12 replies so far

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1505 posts in 1384 days


#1 posted 09-16-2012 11:49 PM

I also have a 113. Craftsman TS. I lube the motor with 3 in 1 motor oil and use aresol dry lube on the hand cranks and trunion assembly.
In all honesty, the first accessory you should get is a new fence. The OEM fence is 100% crap. Install a Delta T2 at your earliest convienence.
You can buy a craftsman miter gauge off ebay for under $20. It should be good ‘nuff. You can also get an Incra Miter gauge for around $50. It might be the last miter gauge you ever need to buy.
You’ll also want to make a crosscut sled. Next to the fence, a x-cut sled is probably to most important accessory for a TS.
I also LOVE the Ridgid/Magswitch featherboards.
Nothing wrong with making a push stick and/or push block, but they can also be purchased for under $5. I occasionally toss one on my amazon/harbor freight order.

View Galadriel's profile

Galadriel

7 posts in 830 days


#2 posted 09-17-2012 11:34 AM

Hey Tedstor, thanks! Once I get Mr. G to help me get it out of my truck, I’ll get started on the lube you suggest.

—> It looks to have some surface rust, too, which pretty much came off the parts I already unloaded with a wire brush and some PB Blaster for the bolt nuts. Is there anything I should be doing to protect against future rust, now?

Heh, a Delta T2 would cost more than all four of the saws I got yesterday put together ;) But I will keep my eyes open. Looking it up, I don’t know if I’m up for the alteration, either, but I see people have good things to say about Ridgid AC1036 fences for these saws, too, and it wouldn’t involve as much to put it on; I’ll keep my eyes open or good deals on either of those.

The Ridgid and Magswitch featherboards look beeeeeyooteeeful.. Thanks for the recommendation.

—> What about the blade guard and spreader? (What are good products for aftermarket blade guards/spreaders that will fit the Craftsman 113’s? What brands etc should I be looking for? This is my biggie question.)

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1379 days


#3 posted 09-17-2012 12:59 PM

here’s the best source for a t2 fence:

http://www.tools-plus.com/delta-36-t30.html

i was fortunate enough to get a 1036 fence system for $20 from a HD for my ridgdi 2412 that was clearancing that fence system. they are no longer produced, so the t2 is the best bang for the buck replacement fence available for your saw ( i have a t2 on my c-man 113.xxxxxx saw). and get a splitter as soon as you can. if you’re dealing with sheet goods, it’s less of an issue due to plywood/mdf/partical bd, etc. inherent stability. when you go to gimensional lumber, it’s imperative to keep the kerf from closing on the back of the blade which would result in the workpiece being hurled at the operator (classic kickback).

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Galadriel's profile

Galadriel

7 posts in 830 days


#4 posted 09-17-2012 02:50 PM

Thanks toolie!

The gentleman who sold me the saw said that there are better aftermarket solutions for the splitter and blade guard. I can find the ones referenced in the previous LJ thread that are more or less original—but what’s better? What should I be looking for? What makes one better than another?

I’m not planning to use the saw at ALL until I have these in place, so I’d really like to know more about what to look for…or if I should just go ahead and get the “original” setup.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1379 days


#5 posted 09-17-2012 04:54 PM

galadriel….. he may have been thinking about something like these:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10889&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CL224PmHvbICFQjc4AodB0YAfQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBMFQ1-8yDQ

judging from the many failed attempts at retrofitting a riving knife to the 113 series of emerson built 10” CI TSs i’ve read about, and from my personal experience with two of those saws, i’d look to an OEM replacement source or ebay for an OEM splitter and blade guard. they aren’t as “neat” as a riving knife, but the oem splitter contained anti-kickback pawls and supported a blade guard. here’s one source for new that’s usually pretty reasonable:

http://www.m-and-d.com/TTI-8048452.html

good luck.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View moke's profile

moke

558 posts in 1527 days


#6 posted 09-17-2012 05:19 PM

galadriel—
It sounds like you are getting some first class advice here. I had a similar craftsman for many years and then I sold it to a young friend of mine, who is using it a lot now! The new fence is the best advice of it all. I know the T2 is a very nice fence. I had it’s predessor, the “unifence”. I still see those occasionally on ebay and craigs list….make sure it fits your saw if you run accross one. That will take your saw to a much more accurate level….I don’t think that can be overstated.

One of the huge problems with this saw is the trunion is literally in the dust collection area. Make sure you use a dry lube on it, and then when you go to tilt the blade, have someone help you by taking wieght if the motor off it’s mount, while you crank. The motor wieght makes it a very unpleasant task to tilt to 45.

Lastly, purchase some “sharpened star washers” put them between the trunion and the table, and after being absolutley sure that your blade is 90 to the miter slot tighten it as tight as you can get it. I actually had a friend in a machine shop do that and it was never off again in the 20 years I owned it.

View Galadriel's profile

Galadriel

7 posts in 830 days


#7 posted 09-17-2012 05:23 PM

Toolie, thank you so much! That was my really urgent question, since I want to go ahead and order that and get it coming my way. Everything else I can do at a leisurely pace :)

That splitter at Rockler…would it be worth eventually getting something like that for cuts where the guard has to be removed?

~ ~ ~

Thanks moke, great to know, I will put those suggestions in my “to be done as soon as we get it off the truck” notes :)

By the way, folks, I am certainly not going to argue that the fence looks like…well, there have been improvements in the technology since it was made, indeed. It’s a poor, sad thing, that fence. A brand new T2 is not in the budget right now, but hey, I’ll keep an eye on Craigslist and I’ll keep an eye out for sales and if those fail me eventually it will be in the budget, so. The budget right now is “just get the darn thing SAFE and then we’ll see.”

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1379 days


#8 posted 09-17-2012 07:59 PM

too bad. last month/week, tools-plus had the t2 down to $148 with free shipping. BTW, don;t be too surprised if you don’t find one used. they are like rikon band saws….....so good, no one that owns one want to sell it.

and, IMHO, that rockler splitter is useless if you have the OEM splitter. kickback is usually only an issue for thru cuts.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Galadriel's profile

Galadriel

7 posts in 830 days


#9 posted 09-19-2012 06:09 PM

I wanted to make sure I thank everyone. I did place an order at M and D, toolie, thank you for that recommendation (I had been planning to get the fence assembly from Craftsman Parts and the Ridgid spreader from the eReplacements link in my first post). I also ordered a couple of Grip-Tite featherboards—is everyone aware that they’re selling off old stock for $20 each, by the way? (http://www.grip-tite.com/Site/Home.html)

That’s…probably unfortunately going to be the extent of my interaction with my new saw for a while, though. I took a fall yesterday and may have borked up my back (again) somewhat badly. So I’ll be waiting on those to arrive, and when I feel up to it I’ll get started on the manual’s instructions for making sure everything’s straight and square, and following up on the additional maintenance advice offered above. Maybe next week. Maybe in a couple of weeks.

But thanks so far, folks!

View Galadriel's profile

Galadriel

7 posts in 830 days


#10 posted 09-19-2012 08:29 PM

Just to reiterate a question from above, while I’m waiting for my back to get to where I can go outside and get started on maintenance:

There’s some surface rust. Well, nothing that’s actual rust. Some red discolorations here and there. They vanish when rubbed with a metal bristle brush and then a cloth. I don’t want the rust to come back. On some tools I’d wipe them down with mineral oil; on some I would put grease on them. Some of them I’d paint.

—> What do I want to do about protecting the table itself and also all of the other various surfaces from potential future rust?

I do live in Florida and my tools do mostly stay outside in the humidity.

View Murdock's profile

Murdock

107 posts in 1235 days


#11 posted 09-19-2012 08:45 PM

To protect the table on my TS I use Renaissance Wax, looks expensive but a little goes a long way.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2003235/462/renaissance-wax.aspx

I know some people use car wax, floor wax, and there are products on market that are ‘specifically marketed’ for the purpose as well.

-- "Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new." - Albert Einstein

View toolie's profile

toolie

1774 posts in 1379 days


#12 posted 09-20-2012 05:30 AM

galadriel …..... mineral oil or wd40 and a scotch brite pad easily remove light rust. there are many preserver products, like boeshield t9, but i prefer plain paste wax. 2-3 coats and it’s good to go. no car wax as they contail silicone which can affect how work pieces take finish. the most important thing to do to retard rust reoccurrence is to cover the CI surface when not in use. almost anything will do. i’ve use plywood, sheets, blankets, hardboard (masonite) htc tool covers, etc. keeping my jointer covered, i haven’t had to treat the tables for 3 years.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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