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Forum topic by restored posted 09-13-2012 03:56 PM 4105 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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restored

28 posts in 974 days


09-13-2012 03:56 PM

I just purchased a powermatic wood lathe model # 90, and have start to restore it. I would like to chane the motor to single phase, any suggestions. I’m also missing parts for the tail stock, and bango tool rest. Anyone know where I may pick up any used parts for this big wonderful machine. Any and all advice is invited please. The existing motor is a 1 hp 3 phase. I had that tested and they said it is working but not in very shape, and look for a new one. I do not have 3 phase in my shop. Is a 1 hp 1800rpms, 230 volt yhe motor for this machine. The lathe itself has a speed lever which will turn up to 4-5000 rpm. I can buy new for 300, but they told me to look for used that I could find one for less than 100. The hunt is confusing. Can I increase to 2hp, 1 1/2, Help!! Thanks Restored

-- KRT


10 replies so far

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AandCstyle

1719 posts in 1139 days


#1 posted 09-15-2012 12:46 AM

KRT,
I would try posting this on OWWM.org. The answer is out there. :)

-- Art

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restored

28 posts in 974 days


#2 posted 09-16-2012 03:49 PM

Thank You for the advice. I tried to register, but can’t seem to get their codes at the end of reg. correct. I can’t understand why some sites make this so difficult. I exceeded the amount of times I could try, so I have to wait & try again. I will, what they let me see, looked interesting. Thanks for the tip. Rick

-- KRT

View Don W's profile

Don W

16162 posts in 1450 days


#3 posted 09-16-2012 11:00 PM

I agree with the value of owwm.org for information but look into this as well for the 3 phase issue.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1603 posts in 2344 days


#4 posted 09-17-2012 01:55 PM

FYI…..the vintage machinery sites, .com and .org require separate registrations, they are 2 DIFFERENT SITES.

As for the 3 phase, I would keep it and get a VFD. Variable speed is a wonderful thing on a lathe and the VFD will most likely be much cheaper than a single phase replacement motor.

http://www.plazamachinery.com/ is a good place to start in looking for parts aside from owwm. You might also try Ben Rock at Pleasant Street machinery in Illinois.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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restored

28 posts in 974 days


#5 posted 09-18-2012 12:48 PM

I think you may be on the right track staying with a 3phase motor. The main issue I have with that is the one that came with it is not in great shape accordding to the electrical shop I had test it for me. Which means I need to purchase a new motor anyways. It does appear that my options are better, as there are many more 3 phase motors out ther to purchase than single phase. With a convertor I would also have the ability to run other 3 phase machinery that I may purchase in the future. The most confusing part for me however is te motor itsself. Volts amps, rpms, etc. on site opinions all vary. I think I may have to bite the bullet and purchase one from the man who specializes in this and pay the extra price so I can get the project pointed in the right direction. Once the machine is back up and running, I think finding the other parts I need will follow and be much eaiser.. Do you have any knowledge as to wether I can increase the hp. from one to two as long as all the other specs stay the same. Any imput on what type of convertor to use and cost. Thank you for your imput. I’m off and running to to the electrical shop. Thanks again, restored

-- KRT

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restored

28 posts in 974 days


#6 posted 09-18-2012 12:58 PM

If I do switch to a single phase motor do I loose the variable speed. The one thing I don’t want to do. The original motor was set up with a mickey mouse switch which came in contact with the variable speed lever. It was attached with a couple small self taping screws to the inside housing. I think the shop teacher ( the machine came from a high school in R.I.) to keep the machine running. The company who checked the motor said it runs but appears to have some kind of burning issue inside. They reccommended I buy a used single phase 1 hp 230 volt. The rpms are important as well as the size of the motor itself, along with its mounting abilities. I do not want to loose the vaiable speed, and will not. Thanks Restored.

-- KRT

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restored

28 posts in 974 days


#7 posted 09-18-2012 01:06 PM

If my boys see a therapist, I know I’m the reason. I have a son who is a U.S. ARMY RANGER, and has done 5 tours totalling close to 3 1/2 years, and I think I’m still the reason. so your not alone. I don’t believe that will change until they have little ones of their own. I will admit to giving them penty to work with , however. Un like a piece of machinery they don’t come with manuals. Your not alone. Restored

-- KRT

View weekendwoodworker's profile

weekendwoodworker

11 posts in 912 days


#8 posted 11-04-2012 04:07 PM

I bought one of these lathes several months ago and had to make the same decision. I went with a new single phase 1 hp. replacement for the old 3 phase motor. I hated to spend the money but now that it is up and running I am glad I went this way. By converting the 1 hp. 3 phase motor to single phase you will loose 1/3 of the rated power of your motor. That would make your old moter a 2/3 hp. After turning a burl bowl about 7” in dia. I just dont think a 2/3 hp motor would have enough power. The replacement moter has to fit iinside the headstock housing (at least on the earlier models) so I had to get a moter with a clamp on base. This allowes you to turn the starting capaciter down and lets the moter fit into the cavity. I also was able to use the built in on-off swich for my new single phase moter. Hope this helps.

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restored

28 posts in 974 days


#9 posted 11-05-2012 12:20 AM

I think your right. Sounds like your project is moving faster than mine though. I did purchase a new motor single phase 2hp. I think I did ok. I went to a small electric motor company here in N.H. and hashed it over with them. Great guys, really know their stuff. They even took the spring loaded pulley wheel off the old motor and put it on the new motor, for 267.00. I went with the laeger motor and one built in mexico, as opposed to a dayton built in the US. I saved 100.00 their opinion was unless that machine is going to run 2 shifts a day, the cheaper motor with the extra power and after it all back together and its up and running if I get a chance to run it 10 to 15 hrs aweek I’ll be very happy. I’ve been busy doing a set of cased stairs, a cultured stone heath for a new gas fireplace hearter insert, with a 7’ long 12” wide mantle out of Mahogany. I’ve had to make all the moldings myself. When any one says the first ft. cost 100.00 their right. I made 6 different types, plus some pieces with beads, round overs, scotia. plus the mantle shelve which is 1 1/2” thick 11 3/8” wide laminated and cased with a 3/4” x 2” facing which is also profiled, and all biscuited together. plenty of red dust in the nose. Very time consuming. Thank you the advice, I may call on you when I start to reassemble it. I did purchase an old 3 phase 24” cresant planer. I believe I’m going to flip it. It’s great old machine that was being used daily at a custom shop in Mass. I placed a bid on it, and won. I would love to be able to power it up, it is a workhouse. Thanks again for the help. Restored

-- KRT

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restored

28 posts in 974 days


#10 posted 02-01-2015 09:42 PM

Just for everyone else’s knowledge, well over 2 years later, due to my lack of machinery knowledge, and maybe a little bit of being cheap to move the project along, I’m now very close to convinced I should have stayed with a 3 phase motor. At the time, having only turned on a Jet 1220, I was concentrating on teaching myself how to turn, and the 100’s of things that go hand in hand. Even though the speeds on the Jet would to the best of my memory reach 3000, much of the wood I was mounting to the machine was to large or to out of round, that bog down was common place. My own understanding of a lathe’s RPM’s therefore was working in reverse, in my head anyways. Add that with inferior chisels and not even coming close to having figured out the art of sharpening (of which will continue until I take my last breathe) added to the problem that I wasn’t even aware was happening. An dull tool creates a lot more catches. To continue my rambling a little further, I was using a 1/8 and 1/4” parting tool to do most of the work. I was really scratching my head as to why a bowl gouge even existed. Being around the shop since birth, I have to thank the higher power, I was blessed will a decent set of hands. I was close to 6 months into before I found out about a chuck though. Back to the 3 phase and rpms. After putting the new motor in the lathe, of which I had to remove the capacitors and mount below inside the cabinet, And mickey mousing the tool rest lock and having a hand crank lever welded on the tail stock, it was time to turn. Wired the motor to 220, to the old existing junction box on the back side and ran some new heavy 12 or 10 wire to a switch on the front. When I hit the switch the first time, I felt like I was in a 747 that had just gone from a low idle to preparation for lift off. It wasn’t extra loud, but the power, the feel, the smooth strong tone was overwhelming. I have to admit, for the very first time in my adult life I was intimidated by a machine. When I do increase speeds which does take a few seconds to for that to happen after moving the Reeves lever, the sound doesn’t necessarily increase, but the feeling of getting ready for lift off is the only way to explain. I knew that this was a real MACHINE. So even now I still have questions. I have stated a different post, about this also. If I thought for a second with what I know now that if I stayed with a 3 phase motor and added a VFD phase converter, I would have done so if!!!. If the VFD can over ride the reeves rpm control, so that I can turn at 200 rpms when starting to rough out. And if other modifications such as belts, any type of different control lever, etc. I would and will change this back to a 3 phase machine if I can control the speeds to a much lower level Why, safety, easier to use, better quality product, all meaning more enjoyment, with the white knuckles for the first 5 minutes of truing up a 12” bowl, and being able to outboard turn. Anyone with any mechanical knowledge of the Reeves drive and how much this will play a roll in converting the machine back to 3 phase for the purpose of being able to lower the low speed by 75%. I have been looking to buy new wanting a minimum of a 16 inch swing. If I purchase a new Nova 2024 what are my odds of having the new machine last 50 years. All the new lathes have systems conferting single phase to 3 in different ways and varying quality. But without at the very minimum buying a 2035 P M. a One Way, Robust, what am I going to get. I think half the reviews are about replacement issues of every part on the new machines. I have a big solid piece of steel weighing in at close to a half ton, if I can do this with it also making sense financially I will change back. My budget is not to exceed 2000.00. This includes designing parts, material and labor to build ways which I’m hoping will accommodate a tail stock for the main purpose of applying enough pressure to back side of a a 20” + chunk of wood for a large bowl. Any input about VFD and lowering rpms for this second restore will all be much appreciated.
Nothing is impossible to the man who doesn’t have to do it himself. rf.

-- KRT

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