Mounting an Open Back Cabinet On the Wall

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Forum topic by mikecorwin posted 09-11-2012 04:35 PM 2832 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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15 posts in 2552 days

09-11-2012 04:35 PM

Hi all – I’m planning on building a simple horizontal cabinet to put on the wall above my television to hold dvd’s, books, etc. I would like to leave it open-backed, which raises the question: What ways would I be able to mount it flush to the wall and conceal the mounting solution? I know if I had a back on the cabinet I could do a French Cleat, but I’m ot familiar with how folks wall-mount cabinets without a back. Any help would be most appreciated, Thanks!

7 replies so far

View J's profile


48 posts in 2148 days

#1 posted 09-11-2012 05:04 PM

You don’t need a back to do a french cleat, mount it to the underside of the top so it acts like a strut. If you were thinking of running crown moulding around the top then you could fasten a nailer along the back of the top of the cabinet and screw through the nailer into the wall.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2287 days

#2 posted 09-11-2012 06:53 PM

How thick are the sides? If they’re 3/4 you can probably hide a keyhole slot in there and hang it that way. Depends on how big and/or heavy it is. :)

View waho6o9's profile


8191 posts in 2578 days

#3 posted 09-11-2012 06:58 PM

Like this.

View Loren's profile


10403 posts in 3649 days

#4 posted 09-11-2012 07:01 PM

These fasteners can be concealed in mortises in the cabinet sides –
then you’d have to get the steel studs into the wall somehow
with enough stability to support the load. If you want the back
of the cabinet to fit the wall exactly, there may be some scribing
to do. A bevel on the back edge can create a shadow line.

View mikecorwin's profile


15 posts in 2552 days

#5 posted 09-11-2012 08:27 PM

Thanks guys for all the great info, gonna look into all the options. Anyone know offhand how much weight 2 keyhole slots mortised in a 3/4” cabinet would hold safely?

View Handtooler's profile


1555 posts in 2133 days

#6 posted 09-11-2012 08:44 PM

Are you using 2-2 1/4”, #8 pan head screws through dry wall into fir/pine studs? If so probably not more than 25 lbs. your wall subject to serious vibrations? Then less.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343

View Loren's profile


10403 posts in 3649 days

#7 posted 09-12-2012 05:00 AM

Plywood may tear out if keyhole routed on edge. Edgeband the back
with solid hardwood and cut the keyholes into the banding.

Then the keyhole slots will hold probably at least 30 lbs. each,
so the weak link is more likely to be what the screws in the
wall are driven into.

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