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Mitre Slot runners

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Forum topic by papwalkre posted 09-11-2012 12:57 PM 1994 views 2 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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papwalkre

4 posts in 736 days


09-11-2012 12:57 PM

Topic tags/keywords: trick jig tip

Wanting to build a featherboard for my sawbench. I saw lots of guys using timber for the mitre slot runners but I wondered about weather and humidity.
I had a flash of using a durable polypropylene cutting board material.
A quick trip to the supermarket yielded several promising boards.
Some machining with the dremel attachments and bobs yer uncle.


7 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3447 posts in 2611 days


#1 posted 09-11-2012 01:26 PM

UHMW plastic is what ya have. The cutting board route is the best way to buy it if you can find the correct thickness. Otherwise, you’re payin’ thru the nose for the stuff.
Well done.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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CessnaPilotBarry

890 posts in 761 days


#2 posted 09-11-2012 02:28 PM

My favorite miter slot runners are 1/4” Baltic birch plywood, with the top and bottom plies oriented parallel to the slot.

Here’s why:
- The runner bearing surface ends up being end grain birch. End grain birch is HARD, and the end grain holds wax and burnishes to a very smooth surface.
- BB ply is very stable. There is no seasonal change to these runners.
- Due to the “washer slot”, there’s no bearing surface below 1/4”, so no need for a thicker runner.
- Skinny BB ply offcuts often get tossed in the trash. FREE runners!

You can gang a bunch of stock together on edge and run it through your planer. Sneak up on perfect fit for YOUR miter slots. This is tough on planer knives, so run it at the edges of your machine, or whip up some stock right before you’re changing knives.

For years, I used hardwood and UMHW runners, but I’ve completely switched to plywood. Will Neptune shared this tip during a class I took, and I’ve witnessed the durability of this technique on sleds that receive heavy use at CT Valley School of Woodworking.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

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TopamaxSurvivor

14742 posts in 2327 days


#3 posted 09-11-2012 06:47 PM

Nice tip CPB. thanks

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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Howie

2656 posts in 1574 days


#4 posted 09-11-2012 06:54 PM

If you use cutting boards,the Dollar stores are the best place to buy. Cheap.

-- Life is good.

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Dusty56

11657 posts in 2339 days


#5 posted 09-11-2012 07:01 PM

Rick L , thanks for that link : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View anobium's profile

anobium

64 posts in 995 days


#6 posted 10-07-2012 09:45 PM

I am glad you like my idea but regular PE (Polyethylen) is too soft. PA (Polyamid) is harder. Almost no wear but it is also a pain in the butt to work it. I tend to order it then all you gotta do is make them run.

-- Whoever finds mistakes can keep them. English is a foreign language to me.

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Woodbum

437 posts in 1716 days


#7 posted 10-09-2012 05:03 PM

If you want to use hardwood runners, cut them so that the grain runs perperdicular to the saw top, and don’t bottom them out in the miter slot. That way seasonal expansion is up and down in the slot and not left to right causing binding.

-- Improvidus, Apto quod Victum-- Improvise, Adapt, Overcome

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