Ridgid r4510 portable table saw question

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Forum topic by driftwoodhunter posted 09-10-2012 10:35 PM 3905 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

09-10-2012 10:35 PM

Topic tags/keywords: blade tablesaw

Hi there,

I have a question that pertains to this saw. I am going to be getting one on my days off at the end of the week. I am wondering if I should buy an extra blade, to upgrade from what comes with it. What should I get? I will be using it mostly for art purposes = to cut 1/2” birch and oak ply to paint on, and walnut slabs (and other woods) no thicker than and inch to paint on and for other projects. I will also be using it to cut exterior boards to make a back deck later in the fall, but mostly for the birch and oak 1/2” ply.


16 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


8140 posts in 3550 days

#1 posted 09-10-2012 11:08 PM

The stock blade is pretty poor and should definitely get replaced with something better. Picking a blade is subjective, but I’d stick with good quality….Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Freud Industrial, CMT Industrial, Amana Tool, and Tenryu Gold Medal all offer some premium blades. Bargain blades like the Freud Diablo, CMT ITK Plus, Tenryu Rapid Cut series, DeWalt Precision Trim, Irwin Marples are also good choices if you don’t want to spend more.

I would avoid Skil, Irwin Marathon, DeWalt Contruction, Oldham Contractors, Ryobi, most Craftsman, HF, Workforce, Vermont American, or you’ll have a blade comparable to the stock blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

#2 posted 09-10-2012 11:53 PM

Thank you so much for replying, I know nothing about blades (or even tools in general) and I didn’t want to blindly take the word of the salesperson.

View cutworm's profile


1075 posts in 2968 days

#3 posted 09-11-2012 12:20 AM

Looks as if you will be doing cross cuts along with ripping plywood. I agree with Knotcott. I probably would go for a higher tooth blade. Also make yourself some zero clearance inserts for good clean cuts. And keep the good side of the wood up when cutting. I like CMT blades myself.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

View Howie's profile


2656 posts in 3098 days

#4 posted 09-11-2012 12:28 AM

Be sure and read,understand and utilize all the safety items concerning your saw.
A 40 T combination Freud would probably do the trick.

-- Life is good.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2536 days

#5 posted 09-11-2012 12:53 AM

I have that saw, and love it. I replaced the stock 10 inch blade with a Freud Fusion 8 inch combination blade. It’s more than enough to handle plywood and 4/4 hardwood. Do it and you’ll turn back.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

#6 posted 09-11-2012 12:54 AM

Oh, don’t worry, I’ll be very careful and read every detail of the instructions and utilize all the safety features. I will have a lot to learn – my experiences with power tools are limited to circular saws, belt sanders, and the like. Even though as a kid I was allowed to use my dad’s radial arm saw (with supervision of course), this will be my first table saw. Obviously I was never responsible for buying blades or maintaining my dad’s tools, so add that to my new learning curve – lol. When doing searches here for the r4510, I came across some regarding the zero clearance insert – something to read up on while I wait for my days off and the actual purchase.

You are right, cutworm, I’ll be mostly ripping & crosscutting ply – I imagine that will be at least 85% of what I use the saw for. I live in a small space and that’s why I’m going with the portable saw rather than the stationary saw (to use it on the deck), and for my limited needs I think it will do the job. As you guys toss blade names my way, I can look them up. You already mentioned many brands I haven’t heard of. I love how willing folks are here to help newbies!

View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

#7 posted 09-11-2012 12:57 AM

lol – Clint, you lost me on the last sentence. I’m glad to hear you love your saw and I appreciate knowing what blade you use, but what do you mean “do it and you’ll turn back”? Maybe I’m too tired from work ; ) (replace the stock blade and I’ll never turn back? haha)

View hamburglar's profile


42 posts in 2274 days

#8 posted 09-11-2012 01:04 AM

I have the 4510 and used the stock blade when I first bought it. I was cutting some poplar, AC ply, MDF, and such. Nothing to write home about, but it did cut the materials. I have it stored on the side of the saw now in case I have to cut some stuff that I don’t want my new blade to cut.

I bought the Irwin Marples 50T to put on there to see if there would be an improvement. All I have noticed so far is that the cut edge is a little cleaner and the saw doesn’t seem to bog down as much as with the OEM blade.

Personally I don’t think I’ll ever put a better blade on this saw than that. Just doesn’t seem realistic to me to throw an expensive blade on a portable jobsite table saw.

P.S. I also forgot to add plexiglass and polycarbonate sheets to that list of cut stuff as well. As much as I hate to admit it I think the Ridgid blade did a better job at that…..

View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

#9 posted 09-11-2012 01:19 AM

As I’m reading a bit on blades (ugh – I have to got to bed for work! I get up at 4:30) I’m wondering what the purpose is of the different number of teeth. For example, what is a 24T, 40T, 50T, or 80T best used for? All the posts and reviews I’m finding tonight speak to readers that already have knowledge of basic tool terminology. I assume a combo blade means it’s more of an all purpose/general use blade? I think I understand that lower teeth numbers equate to coarse ripping blades, and higher teeth make finer cuts that might go straight to gluing with little sanding. Correct?

Also, a quick search to learn about zero clearance inserts (which I never heard of until I started reviewing table saws) popped up Rockler’s premade phenolic resin ones. Are these good? I don’t have a router or a way to make my own.

Lots of questions I know, but I appreciate you’re time & help : )

View Scott's profile


121 posts in 2399 days

#10 posted 09-11-2012 02:04 AM

You don’t necessarily need a router to make a zero clearance insert. Made one for my miter saw the other day and it just took a scroll saw and a forstner bit on the drill press. Trace the existing one onto a piece of scrap, plane it to the right thickness, trim the excess, and drill the appropriate recesses and holes. Granted you’ll want to cut a slot for the riving knife, but that doesn’t need to be very precise, jigsaw would be fine.

On my table saw, I have a Leecraft phenolic one. It works well enough. At $25 I’ll probably make my own if I do anything with dados. But if you don’t have the tools or desire to make your own, the phenolic works fine.

View knotscott's profile


8140 posts in 3550 days

#11 posted 09-11-2012 02:49 AM

In general, more teeth equates to a cleaner cut, but it also means more resistance to the saw, more heat, and more chance of burning. Most general purpose blades are designed to be versatile, and will do a “good” job of many tasks, whereas a dedicated purpose blade will do an excellent job of a specific task, but doesn’t do well outside of it’s intended operating range.

If you want to forego the reading and just get down to business, for your described purposes, I’d suggest an Infinity 010-060. It’s a 60T blade with a slightly positive hook angle and a Hi-ATB grind…it should be ideal for clean cuts in ply, clean crosscuts, and very clean rips in materials up to about 1”. It’s on sale for $59.90… not the cheapest blade going, nor the most expensive, but should rival some best, and is extremely well suited for what you’ll be cutting, and is made by one of the premier manufacturers.

If that’s more than you want to spend, the 60T Freud Diablo D1060X should also do very well for ~ $50. The Freud Diablo D1050X for ~ $40, Irwin Marples 50T ($40), and the D1040X for ~ $30 should also do a pretty decent job.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

#12 posted 09-11-2012 10:27 AM

Store bought it what it will have to be when it comes to the insert – I don’t have a planer or a drill press. I’m an artist and a wannbe woodworker. One with practically no tools and no experience yet – lol. I don’t mind spending money on a good blade that will make my job easier and put less stress on the motor. I am very, very fortunate because a good friend of 30 years sent me the $ to buy the saw. She is retired and makes several times more money off her pension than I do working and she has always called herself my Patron of the Arts. She sent me this check out of the blue when I posted on facebook about how I was saving for the saw but wouldn’t have the $ for a few months yet. Right now I’m at the mercy of the Lowes salesmen to cut my ply into the sizes I need for paintings, and they very rarely get anything correct or square. They tell me their saw is off by 3/4” and they have to guesstimate the cuts. So it’s been a nightmare to get the ply panels finished so they will fit properly into frames when the art is done. I just recently got into a gallery in the Smokies and the tourist traffic is great – but not having the saw held me up considerably. That’s why my questions are so basic – I’m approaching this from the point of view of an artist who needs to learn some basic skills and is just starting to get tools. So again, I say a sincere thanks for all your patience and help!

View superstretch's profile


1531 posts in 2868 days

#13 posted 09-11-2012 04:18 PM

Hey Vasko! I have a vintage Craftsman and finding a pre-made ZCI wasn’t going to happen. I did locate one that would fit the top of the saw, so I 0’d the blade out with an angle finder and then lowered the blade, put the insert in the slot, clamped a 2×4 from front to back over the blade, and then raised the blade all the way up.

If you’re making crosscuts on materials up to about 18” or so, you might want to look into making your own crosscut sled. They take all of 15 minutes or so to make if you want a quick and dirty one and are much more reliable than most miter gauges.

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

View Rex B's profile

Rex B

320 posts in 2425 days

#14 posted 09-11-2012 05:13 PM

It’s definitely exciting to be getting a new saw. It sounds like you will be cutting a lot of sheet goods. Be careful, as cutting large pieces on a small saw like that can get dangerous in a hurry. Cutting to rough size with a cheap circular saw, then cutting to final dimensions at the table saw is a good option to look into.

-- Rex

View driftwoodhunter's profile


273 posts in 2861 days

#15 posted 09-11-2012 09:02 PM

Hi Dan! Aren’t you excited? I may finally do something with that walnut – LOL I think of you nearly every time I look at it ; )

Now I’ll have to look up crosscut sled, because I have no idea what it is. Your suggestion of lowering the blade, clamping a 2×4, etc, is very similar to a diy instruction I found online – only they didn’t mention clamping the 2×4. It’s a great idea, thanks!

Rex, I have a tiny car (a 2000 Hyundai Accent) and to get a sheet of ply into it I have to have the store cut it into two 2’ x 4’ pieces, the doors are so small. So a 2’ x 4’ will be the largest piece of ply I actually put on the saw. Do you suggest using some kind of brace or roller to support the 48” length? Of course I could always have someone help me support the overhang too…I don’t know anyone with a portable table saw, so I don’t know how stable the stand is, if they are top heavy, etc. If I decide to do a larger painting my friends will have to loan me their pickup which they have no problem doing. If I decide to cut bigger panels out of a full sheet, I will definitely take your advice and do some precuts with the circular saw. You’ve all given me some great advice!

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