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Blade burns in hard maple

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Forum topic by DrPuk2U posted 09-08-2012 06:56 PM 1159 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DrPuk2U

49 posts in 1046 days


09-08-2012 06:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw hard maple burn marks blade

I’m working on the chops for my face and end vices. I bought some very nice HARD white maple, 9” wide, 5/4. When I made the necessary cuts using a pretty new, clean WoodWorker II saw I get this kind of burning.

I wasn’t feeding it fast and it cut very nicely, no bogging or problems, just these burn marks. Is this to be expected? Should I perhaps switch to a 24 tooth general crosscut blade instead?

I also have to rip these same boards now. I have a Freud 24 tooth rip blade, which I will use.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"


10 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3589 posts in 2714 days


#1 posted 09-08-2012 07:15 PM

A slow feed rate will cause the burn. Try feeding a bit faster.
Is the saw well aligned?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5610 posts in 2129 days


#2 posted 09-08-2012 07:36 PM

Maple burns fairly easily to start with, and it’s possible that it’s a tad moist, making it burn even more. Try raising the blade a bit higher, cleaning the blade again, and increasing the feed rate as Bill suggested.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View GarageWoodworks's profile

GarageWoodworks

447 posts in 910 days


#3 posted 09-08-2012 08:01 PM

It’s possible that your blade is not aligned parallel to your miter slot.

Check it the right way here:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v15

-- Subscribe on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/GarageWoodworks?feature=guide

View DrPuk2U's profile

DrPuk2U

49 posts in 1046 days


#4 posted 09-09-2012 02:50 PM

Thanks folks. I checked the alignment using a digital caliper and a dial indicator. As far as I can tell, it is within 0.001” of perfect alignment. Ditto the fence and miter slot. I did try feeding it faster and that seemed to help a lot. Also, I did the rips with a 24 tooth Freud rip blade and that worked well, with only a tiny bit of burning on one long (32”) cut.

I still have the other viss cop to cut, so I’ll have more data in a couple of days.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View hairy's profile

hairy

2109 posts in 2286 days


#5 posted 09-09-2012 03:29 PM

Cut it twice. First time about a blade thickness too long, then a skim cut . It’s not too much extra time.

-- in the confusion, I mighta grabbed the gold ...

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2991 posts in 1997 days


#6 posted 09-09-2012 07:11 PM

Did you check for runout on the arbor? A runout of ± .001” translates to ± .005” at the teeth of a 10” blade. I don’t know of any saw around that has zero runout, except maybe an expensive commercial saw, like an Oliver or Northland. Even that small amount of runout can cause burn prone woods to burn.

View Alexandre's profile

Alexandre

1417 posts in 944 days


#7 posted 09-09-2012 08:52 PM

You could also clean up the burn marks with a super sharp block plane… :P

-- My terrible signature...

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3372 posts in 927 days


#8 posted 09-11-2012 02:29 PM

Change blade speed. Run it faster.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View DrPuk2U's profile

DrPuk2U

49 posts in 1046 days


#9 posted 11-26-2012 05:45 PM

Just an update on this. My son (a master carpenter and mechanic) and I spent a couple of hours tuning and cleaning my TS over Thanksgiving weekend and found that the blade was about 0.011” out of alignment with the miter slot. We worked on it for a while and got it within 0.002” of alignment with the left slot. Turned out that one miter slot is about 0.0015” out of alignment with the other slot. So now the blade is within 0.001” of alignment with one slot, 0.002” of alignment with the other and within 0.001” of alignment with the Biesemeyer fence.

Now, ripping hard maple and that gnarly Southern Yellow Pine through is smooth and clean.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View jap's profile

jap

1240 posts in 807 days


#10 posted 11-26-2012 05:49 PM

thanks for the update

-- Joel

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