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Blade burns in hard maple

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Forum topic by DrPuk2U posted 683 days ago 1021 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DrPuk2U

48 posts in 889 days


683 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw hard maple burn marks blade

I’m working on the chops for my face and end vices. I bought some very nice HARD white maple, 9” wide, 5/4. When I made the necessary cuts using a pretty new, clean WoodWorker II saw I get this kind of burning.

I wasn’t feeding it fast and it cut very nicely, no bogging or problems, just these burn marks. Is this to be expected? Should I perhaps switch to a 24 tooth general crosscut blade instead?

I also have to rip these same boards now. I have a Freud 24 tooth rip blade, which I will use.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"


10 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3342 posts in 2557 days


#1 posted 683 days ago

A slow feed rate will cause the burn. Try feeding a bit faster.
Is the saw well aligned?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5367 posts in 1972 days


#2 posted 683 days ago

Maple burns fairly easily to start with, and it’s possible that it’s a tad moist, making it burn even more. Try raising the blade a bit higher, cleaning the blade again, and increasing the feed rate as Bill suggested.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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GarageWoodworks

419 posts in 753 days


#3 posted 683 days ago

It’s possible that your blade is not aligned parallel to your miter slot.

Check it the right way here:

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v15

-- Subscribe on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/user/GarageWoodworks?feature=guide

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DrPuk2U

48 posts in 889 days


#4 posted 682 days ago

Thanks folks. I checked the alignment using a digital caliper and a dial indicator. As far as I can tell, it is within 0.001” of perfect alignment. Ditto the fence and miter slot. I did try feeding it faster and that seemed to help a lot. Also, I did the rips with a 24 tooth Freud rip blade and that worked well, with only a tiny bit of burning on one long (32”) cut.

I still have the other viss cop to cut, so I’ll have more data in a couple of days.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

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hairy

1988 posts in 2129 days


#5 posted 682 days ago

Cut it twice. First time about a blade thickness too long, then a skim cut . It’s not too much extra time.

-- what a long, strange trip it's been...

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2716 posts in 1840 days


#6 posted 682 days ago

Did you check for runout on the arbor? A runout of ± .001” translates to ± .005” at the teeth of a 10” blade. I don’t know of any saw around that has zero runout, except maybe an expensive commercial saw, like an Oliver or Northland. Even that small amount of runout can cause burn prone woods to burn.

View Alexandre's profile

Alexandre

1417 posts in 788 days


#7 posted 682 days ago

You could also clean up the burn marks with a super sharp block plane… :P

-- My terrible signature...

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Surfside

3036 posts in 770 days


#8 posted 680 days ago

Change blade speed. Run it faster.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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DrPuk2U

48 posts in 889 days


#9 posted 604 days ago

Just an update on this. My son (a master carpenter and mechanic) and I spent a couple of hours tuning and cleaning my TS over Thanksgiving weekend and found that the blade was about 0.011” out of alignment with the miter slot. We worked on it for a while and got it within 0.002” of alignment with the left slot. Turned out that one miter slot is about 0.0015” out of alignment with the other slot. So now the blade is within 0.001” of alignment with one slot, 0.002” of alignment with the other and within 0.001” of alignment with the Biesemeyer fence.

Now, ripping hard maple and that gnarly Southern Yellow Pine through is smooth and clean.

-- Ric, N. Illinois "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View jap's profile

jap

1224 posts in 651 days


#10 posted 604 days ago

thanks for the update

-- Joel

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