Blade burns in hard maple

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by DrPuk2U posted 09-08-2012 06:56 PM 1913 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View DrPuk2U's profile


56 posts in 2289 days

09-08-2012 06:56 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw hard maple burn marks blade

I’m working on the chops for my face and end vices. I bought some very nice HARD white maple, 9” wide, 5/4. When I made the necessary cuts using a pretty new, clean WoodWorker II saw I get this kind of burning.

I wasn’t feeding it fast and it cut very nicely, no bogging or problems, just these burn marks. Is this to be expected? Should I perhaps switch to a 24 tooth general crosscut blade instead?

I also have to rip these same boards now. I have a Freud 24 tooth rip blade, which I will use.

-- Ric, Northern Illinois, "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

10 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4929 posts in 3957 days

#1 posted 09-08-2012 07:15 PM

A slow feed rate will cause the burn. Try feeding a bit faster.
Is the saw well aligned?


View knotscott's profile


8012 posts in 3372 days

#2 posted 09-08-2012 07:36 PM

Maple burns fairly easily to start with, and it’s possible that it’s a tad moist, making it burn even more. Try raising the blade a bit higher, cleaning the blade again, and increasing the feed rate as Bill suggested.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View GarageWoodworks's profile


531 posts in 2153 days

#3 posted 09-08-2012 08:01 PM

It’s possible that your blade is not aligned parallel to your miter slot.

Check it the right way here:

-- Subscribe on YouTube:

View DrPuk2U's profile


56 posts in 2289 days

#4 posted 09-09-2012 02:50 PM

Thanks folks. I checked the alignment using a digital caliper and a dial indicator. As far as I can tell, it is within 0.001” of perfect alignment. Ditto the fence and miter slot. I did try feeding it faster and that seemed to help a lot. Also, I did the rips with a 24 tooth Freud rip blade and that worked well, with only a tiny bit of burning on one long (32”) cut.

I still have the other viss cop to cut, so I’ll have more data in a couple of days.

-- Ric, Northern Illinois, "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View hairy's profile


2701 posts in 3528 days

#5 posted 09-09-2012 03:29 PM

Cut it twice. First time about a blade thickness too long, then a skim cut . It’s not too much extra time.

-- My reality check bounced...

View MrRon's profile


4764 posts in 3240 days

#6 posted 09-09-2012 07:11 PM

Did you check for runout on the arbor? A runout of ± .001” translates to ± .005” at the teeth of a 10” blade. I don’t know of any saw around that has zero runout, except maybe an expensive commercial saw, like an Oliver or Northland. Even that small amount of runout can cause burn prone woods to burn.

View Alexandre's profile


1417 posts in 2187 days

#7 posted 09-09-2012 08:52 PM

You could also clean up the burn marks with a super sharp block plane… :P

-- My terrible signature...

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2170 days

#8 posted 09-11-2012 02:29 PM

Change blade speed. Run it faster.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View DrPuk2U's profile


56 posts in 2289 days

#9 posted 11-26-2012 05:45 PM

Just an update on this. My son (a master carpenter and mechanic) and I spent a couple of hours tuning and cleaning my TS over Thanksgiving weekend and found that the blade was about 0.011” out of alignment with the miter slot. We worked on it for a while and got it within 0.002” of alignment with the left slot. Turned out that one miter slot is about 0.0015” out of alignment with the other slot. So now the blade is within 0.001” of alignment with one slot, 0.002” of alignment with the other and within 0.001” of alignment with the Biesemeyer fence.

Now, ripping hard maple and that gnarly Southern Yellow Pine through is smooth and clean.

-- Ric, Northern Illinois, "Design thrice, measure twice, cut once... slap forehead, start over"

View jap's profile


1251 posts in 2050 days

#10 posted 11-26-2012 05:49 PM

thanks for the update

-- Joel

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics