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Grizzly 1023SL Rail Extended

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Forum topic by Kevin posted 09-08-2012 01:28 AM 2867 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kevin

462 posts in 2670 days


09-08-2012 01:28 AM

Topic tags/keywords: grizzly table saw

I decided to go ahead and extend my rip capacity on the table saw tonight. I wasn’t able to just undo the bolts on the rail and move it to the right like I had thought. Instead I had to drill a couple of holes in the angle. I measured the existing holes and drilled 1” from the left end and then bolted it to the cast iron table. I had to then measure the other existing hole on the other cast iron table. I drilled it on the drill press and both bolts fit perfectly. I came up with 10-11 inches extra for rip capacity. I was at 26” now i’m 36.5” :)

Here is a picture of the front of the rail. I will probably do the back rail the same as long as I am able to. If not I will have to make an extender. I plan to remove the right extension wing and get the H7507 router table extension from grizzly to replace it.

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY


8 replies so far

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

1025 posts in 2951 days


#1 posted 09-08-2012 01:47 AM

Just shy of a foot. That will come in real handy. I have the same saw, only right tilt. It never dawned on me to just move the rails over. I was going to replace with longer ones. But really, I don’t have the room for much if any more length than what you have now. This is a true revelation. Dang, I may can get this done by end of the weekend. I owe you one, Kevin! Dang!

-- Better woodworking through old hand tools.

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knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#2 posted 09-08-2012 02:11 AM

Kevin – That extra capacity should come in handy….well done! I’ve done something similar….36” is about all my little shop can handle, but it’s a nice size. I’ve got a Shop Fox W1677 that’s essentially the same as the G1023SL… I was able to move the front rail by the distance of one bolt hole cantilevered 10” further on the angle bracket….the bracket remained untouched in it’s stock setup, and I bolted the rail down to it with one less bolt….no drilling.

David – If you slide the rails right, you loose left side capacity….not a problem for a left tilt saw, but could be something you’d miss on a right tilt saw.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Kevin

462 posts in 2670 days


#3 posted 09-08-2012 02:48 AM

When I posted this I thought, hmmm, maybe I should have posted an article or blog or something instead.
Well Dave I thought, there is no reason why I can’t just drill 2 new holes in the angle iron. I’ve got a drill press and the bits so lets go for it :) It actually took me about 1 hour from start to finish I think.

If you extend your’s Dave let us know how it goes. Good luck, it’s pretty easy. Glad I was able to spark an idea for you :)

Yeah knotscott, I am excited. You chimed in on my other post about the router table extension. I’m going that route since I won’t be using that part for anything real big, just dado’s, and such.

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

View WoodNDust's profile

WoodNDust

184 posts in 1571 days


#4 posted 09-08-2012 03:59 AM

I wonder when ordering a G1023RL from Grizzly, whether Grizzly would sell the saw with longer rails at customer request? This would give the extra right side ripping capacity without sacrificing left side fence placement (though perhaps rarely needed). I suppose the extra long rails could be very handy if adding a cast iron router extension table on to the right side of the table saw.

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knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#5 posted 09-08-2012 10:13 AM

”I wonder when ordering a G1023RL from Grizzly, whether Grizzly would sell the saw with longer rails at customer request?”

Absolutely….model G1023RLX – $1545 shipped. ;-)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Kevin's profile

Kevin

462 posts in 2670 days


#6 posted 09-09-2012 03:54 AM

This is after removing the whole rail assembly from the cast iron wings and drilling new holes into the angle iron. I decided to drill new holes instead of moving the square tubing 10” to the right. This way I do not have to make any extenders on the rails.

This shows the two places I need to grind out for the miter slots.

Close up after it has been grind out.

Here is the back of the rail with new holes drilled and the miter slot ground out.

What the saw looks like after front/back rails has been moved.

Hinges and legs from my folding outfeed table.

So conclusion is that I decided to move the whole rail with tubing attached about 10” to the right and not have to build any rail extenders. By doing this I had to drill a few holes which was easy, grind away clearance for the miter slots (x4) which took about 5 minutes per each one.

I have about a 36- 36.25 ripping capacity now instead of 26”.

I have tested and made sure everything was still tuned properly and I believe the outcome was very successful. If you had another person to help you with holding the rails while drilling, and attaching it would be much easier and go faster.

Kevin

-- Williamsburg, KY

View WoodNDust's profile

WoodNDust

184 posts in 1571 days


#7 posted 09-10-2012 05:21 AM

Kevin – Very nice mod! I’m looking at the G1023RL myself.

View AmandasHusband's profile

AmandasHusband

58 posts in 2158 days


#8 posted 09-10-2012 11:48 PM

I’ve contemplated doing this to my G1023SL before. But I haven’t gone through with it.

I’ll probably just buy the rails from Grizzly. Was thinking they’re like $175.

-- In this world there's two kinds of people my friend. Those with loaded guns and those who dig. You dig.

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