What Glue Do You Stick With?

You will get answers from people who use different glues for different applications, but for my guitars, which get thrown around, sweated on, and have to move a lot with the player, I use Titebond III only. Also use it on my jewelry boxes since the drawers.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

Sure, I think that’s what I use too.

AJ

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

Mostly do laminating for exterior and marine work.. use West System epoxy with microfibers almost exclusively.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

Epoxy is good too. Thanks!
AJ

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

It really depends on a few things. No one glue is going to be best at everything, or the right glue for every application. There are many differing opinions as well. Like most things you research about woodworking, there are many ways to do things. The glues below work well for me: (note, before you glue anything, you need a clean joint. the two pieces should fit with no gaps showing without glue or clamps)

Laminated pieces like table tops – Regular old Titebond I. I like the short open time, the good initial tack, the fact it is pretty thick and stays put, and the short clamping time.

Mortise and tenon or anything that will get wet (cutting boards for example) – Titebond III. It has a much longer open time (meaning you can mess with it before it sets longer than Titebond I) and it is very thin. I cut my M&T a little on the tight side so I want a thinner glue. Also I tend to glue up several pieces that may require some time in lining up before I put the clamps on. The long open time is great for that.

That’s pretty much it for wood-to-wood joints. A lot of people use the gorilla polyurethane style glues or 2 part epoxy systems. Again, they may work well, but regular old PVA or PVA II glue has held up well since the 50’s. It’s easy to get, easy to use, non-toxic, and cleans up with water.
Brands don’t matter a whole lot. I’m not sure there is really much difference between Elmers PVA glue and regular titebond, or Elmers advanced (PVA II) and Titebond II or III.

When I do other gluing, such has brass tubes inside wood for pens, I am a little more selective. If the fit is very tight, I will use a CA glue like 2P10. If there are gaps, I will use a 2 part epoxy.

Some people are tempted to use liquid nails or construction adhesives in woodworking. Always remember – woodworking is NOT construction.

-- http://www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

AJ
I use Titebond III for just about everything interior or exterior, hasn’t failed me yet….

-- Lucas, "Someday woodworks will be my real job, until then, there's this http://www.melbrownfarmsupply.com"

I also use TB3 as my go to glue for most applications.

-- John, BC, Canada

Titebond III, Elmer’s wood glue, gorilla glue, or Loctite PL Premium

It all depends on what I need it to do. I wouldn’t mind playing around with a 2 part epoxy, but haven’t had the need yet.

Old brown hide glue
TB III

-- WOOD/DON (...one has the right to ones opinion but not the right to ones own facts...)

TBIII, because my shop gets very hot here in south Texas and TBIII has one of the longest ”open times.”

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

You should try some gorilla glue sometime, but don’t try it on a really nice project. I say try it because I used it a few times and threw the rest of the bottle away because it foams out and makes a mess no matter how little you use and clean up. I use Titebond III in the various colors (dark for walnut etc, yellow for pine or oak). I always have a couple tubes of two part epoxy in the drawer as well. Very handy for attaching metal or plastic to wood as well as other household repairs.

-- Matt CueBall Rosendaul. I don't think I've ever had a cup of coffee that didn't have cat hair or sawdust in it.

I have been using Titebond II, and Titebond III because III is more expensive, but is waterproof where II is only water resistant. I have been doing more and more outdoor and marine related projects lately, and it doesn’t make much sense to keep the 2 different glues around. III will do what II does just at a slightly higher cost… When I run my current stock out, I am going all in for III…

I won’t use Elmers wood glue any more. Had too many joint failures with it…

-- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations!

My shop uses a lot of plain old Elmers or Titebond wood glue/Aliphatic resin.

We also have titebod II and III on hand for special needs, West Systems epoxy for working with stone and metals on exterior projects, Gorilla Glue has found it’s way into the shop, doing much the same as the Titebond II/III

There is also a thick flexible kraft glue we use for odds and ends. It’s basically SuperGlue but much thicker which makes it easier to use on a lot of surfaces.

I use any good outdoor waterproof carpenters glue . I made a big mistake and bought a load of gorilla glue and it all went off on me,it was a waste of money and a steep learning curve for me, so beware. Also I like the powder glues like cascamite have fun young friend. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

I mostly use Titebond I. I made a cutting board once and I used Titebond II for that.

If I am gluing dissimilar materials like metal to wood I’ll use hot glue or epoxy.