Rigid Table Saw I found - What should I ask?

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Forum topic by AngieO posted 09-06-2012 12:32 AM 3554 views 0 times favorited 34 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1267 posts in 2111 days

09-06-2012 12:32 AM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw rigid question

So I’ve figured something out about the local flea market. It’s closed Monday and Tuesday and I’ve noticed it’s PACKED on Wednesdays. So after watching a couple of times and visiting it often I’ve found that the vendors there must restock on Monday and Tuesday. I didn’t get to go this morning like I wanted to but I went around closing time this afternoon.
It’s amazing what some people try to sell. And it’s amazing how CLUTTERED this place is. You’d think that the vendors would want to have things displayed in a way that would be inviting to customers and that makes things easy to find. I found some stuff today but did not buy. It’s also amazing what people will stick under the table completely out of sight. I found a biscuit jointer. It was marked $15 and said “sander” on it. I meant to go back and get the model number and stuff from it. I think it said something like “Chicago Tools” or something. It was only $15. Then I went back to another booth and looked under the table… and hiding back behind a couple of chain saws and other tools was a small benchtop bandsaw. I have to admit that i was pretty interested in it. BUT… I’m kinda nervous about some of the tools I see there. The little bandsaw would just be a starter. It was $20 (I think). Can’t even remember what kind it was.

Anyhow… As I was getting ready to leave I was checking out one of the booths that usually has tools. I noticed there was alot of stuff missing… ALOT. But… he had this….

As you can tell, it’s buried a bit. This is after I took some things off the top of it.
Here’s another pic. The top is all rusted out.

Actually… in person it looks even more rusted. Since I don’t know much about these I don’t know what to ask and I don’t know what to look for or what’s a good price. Right now he has $265 on it. I gave the lady at the register my name and phone number and asked her to pass it along to the vendor. So what should I find out when/if he calls?

34 replies so far

View ShaneA's profile


6909 posts in 2562 days

#1 posted 09-06-2012 12:40 AM

Looks lile the ts3660, it is the model before the ts3650. I think it is US made. Quality saw, if it is all there and works, the price is reasonable. Should have built in mobile base and be a true 1.5hp induction motor. Large step up vs benchtop saw, and worthy of consideration. Good luck.

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2387 posts in 3510 days

#2 posted 09-06-2012 12:44 AM

I just sold a newer model Ridgid just like that one, mine was only a few years old though and I sold it for 250.00. The TS you are looking at is a bit older, but not sure how much older it is. If it runs good, motor spins without any funny noises. Maybe take the belt off and turn the motor on and just listen to the motor. Run the saw with the belt on and listen for any noises coming from the arbor. Upon a positive inspection of the TS I might be inclined to tell the seller his saw has an estimated value of 175.00 based on age and also based on the original retail price which I believed was around 499.00. Look for the manufacture date because that might help your case when trying to get your price. Personally I would not give more then 200.00 for the saw and would walk away otherwise. Last week I bought a 3 hp Grizzly with stock fence for 300.00, and I don’t consider that price a “once in a lifetime” deal, as those deals come around on a regular basis. Last month I found a Unisaw for 200.00 but it was sold.

Just my opinion but I hope it helps.

-- .

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7980 posts in 3339 days

#3 posted 09-06-2012 12:53 AM

It’s a TS2424 ….made by Emerson in the USA. Parts should be readily available, even if just plucked from other old Emerson or TTI/Ryobi made Craftsman or Ridgid saws. $150-$200 would be a pretty decent price….see what they’ll take. The rust should come off pretty easily, but takes work, and it’s a great bartering point….as is the lack of the blade guard and miter gauge, or whatever else it’s missing. Be sure it runs, hand wheels work properly (sawdust can make them feel stiff, but a clean and lube will fix that), check that the bearings are good by spinning the arbor and listening for squealing or grinding, and that there are no cracks in the cast iron under pinnings, or no other obvious dings or bends in the fence. A used miter gauge will run $10-$20, but I wouldn’t even bother with that….you can get a nice Incra for ~ $50 that’ll be a whole lot better. Used blade guards pop up in the $10-$20 range sometimes too….use those missing items to bring the price down to where it’s fair. Good luck!

Here’s what it should/could look like:

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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1057 posts in 2240 days

#4 posted 09-06-2012 02:28 AM

Benchtop bandsaw’s normally aren’t that good. There are a few bench bandsaw’s that work good, but I normally stay away from bench top band saws. The rigid table saw, my target price would be at about $200 at the most. Just make sure that the TS works, and runs good. Also make sure that the motor has no problems. One time I got a Scroll saw, it was really good but 2 weeks down the road the motor stopped working. So good luck!


View Richard's profile


400 posts in 2655 days

#5 posted 09-06-2012 03:49 AM

Angie, I have that exact same TS. It’s a good one.

knotscott is right, it’s a bit above market at $265, so you may be able to negotiate a better price. And that rust will clean up.

Aside from the missing blade guard I did not see a miter with the saw. Also, look at the underside, there should be a dust chute with a port for a shop vac.

Speaking of the miter, even if it is there I would trash the stock unit and replace it with an Incra. I put a V27 on mine, but Rockler has the V120 on sale right now.

Check the blade adjustments to make sure everything moves freely.

Is there an opportunity to plug it in and heard it run? What kind of shape is the belt in?

My negotiating points would be all about the missing gear and the stock craptastic belt that will probably squeal a little on start up if it’s been sitting any length of time (mine does). And a new Ridgid TS from HD is only $500 for pity’s sake, you’re doing him a favor to cart the thing away.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View nwbusa's profile


1021 posts in 2250 days

#6 posted 09-06-2012 04:51 AM

Don’t those gray Ridgids carry the lifetime warranty that stays with the tool?

-- John, BC, Canada

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Chris McDowell

644 posts in 2116 days

#7 posted 09-06-2012 10:01 AM

Can’t help you on the table saw, but the biscuit jointer I’m pretty sure is most likely from Harbor Freight. A lot of the tools they sell are by Chicago Electric Power Tools. Here’s the link for the only biscuit jointer I coul find on their site:

-- Chris, , FACEBOOK: , Proverbs 16:9

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486 posts in 3044 days

#8 posted 09-06-2012 01:52 PM

It’s not a 3660 or a 3650 but as Scott stated it most likely is a 2424. Without a better view of the fence it hard to tell but there’s an outside chance it’s a 3612. The fence on a 3612 has better features than the one found on the 2424. There should be a nameplate on the left hand side of the saw which will tell you the model number. As others have stated, the asking price is on the high side for a saw in that condition.

Hey Scott, the next time you see a blade guard assy. for $10 to $20 PM me will ya?

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7980 posts in 3339 days

#9 posted 09-06-2012 02:47 PM

Will do…watch this one never know.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View toolie's profile


2120 posts in 2592 days

#10 posted 09-06-2012 05:03 PM

+1 on knotscott’s comments. and nbwusa is correct . those gray ridgid stationary tools do carry a lifetime warranty regardless of whether or not you are the first owner. one thing to check, after the motor and the arbor, is to loosen the tilt lock , which is above the elevation handwheel and bevel the raised blade to 45*. some users, forgetting to loosen the bevel lock, bent the bevel rod or the side of the cabinet where the bevel handle goes through the side of the base. this can cause alignment and operational issues.

i have a 2412, the entry level version of the 3612, to which i’ve added OEM stuff so it proxies a 3612, which i firmly believe was the best 10” CI contractor saw ever made. i believe the saw shown is a 2424 judging from the shape of the front rail. it’s just like the 2412 and the 3612 front rail and fence head were broader and shaped differently. also, the 2424, like the 3612, is a dual voltage motor. and while it doesn’t develop more HP @220v, 220v configured motors will help in balancing the load of all your tools relative to your electrical service. good luck.

if the motor runs, i’d say anything between $200 and $250 would give you a very good TS. here’s the owners manual:

i think so much of my two emerson electric built TSs that i’m selling my recently returned to service unisaw for lack of room. if you want good TS, i wouldn’t let this one slip through my fingers, assuming it checks out mechanically.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View venusflytraps's profile


57 posts in 2053 days

#11 posted 09-12-2012 11:39 AM

i got a bosch table saw,, its a really good saw for 400$ every powerful and accurate,, cuts up to 25 1/2 ,, id recommend that saw for anything else around that price

-- rob

View lumberjoe's profile


2899 posts in 2212 days

#12 posted 09-12-2012 02:29 PM

Don’t let the rust scare you. As long as there is no deep pitting, you can take care of it. There are a lot of commercially available products to bring that back to life that are relatively easy to use. That saw and it’s craftsman cousin (both Emerson made) are all over the CL ads in my area. They generally go for 200.00 in much nicer physical condition.


View knotscott's profile (online now)


7980 posts in 3339 days

#13 posted 09-12-2012 07:12 PM

Angie – What’s the status of this TS endeavor?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View AngieO's profile


1267 posts in 2111 days

#14 posted 09-13-2012 12:03 AM

OK… so I went by there today to check it out. I had talked to the guy that has it for sale last night. He picked it up somewhere so he had little information about it. He also stumbled when I asked about the miter gage. He kept asking me what I was talking about. When I asked about the blade protection he said he thought it was there. But I didn’t find it anywhere. He said he would leave an extention cord for me to turn it on. He had never tried.

Well… when I got there there was junk all over it, including a weedeater that was leaking fuel all over the top of it. This thing has the herc-u-lift so I wheeled it out. I really like that. So the first thing I found when I looked at the back was this…. ???? What the heck?

I’m not really sure about the rope. It looks as if it’s holding the motor up. So then I turned it on… nothing…it didn’t start. I looked around the motor again and checked out the belt.

You can’t tell from the pic but what I found was that the belt was off. So I put the belt back on and turned it on again. It started right up for me. It was suprisingly NOT loud. Are they really that quiet? My Craftsman is pretty loud.

I also played around with the bevel. It moved pretty easy. When I lowered and raised the blade thought it was pretty tight.

Here’s a pic of the fence. Someone had asked about it.

I like it… but I think after what I’ve learned I’m definitely not interested in $265. I called the guy back and haven’t heard from him yet. I’m thinking I’m going to offer him $150. With the rope issue though… I’m wondering if that’s too high. What’s up with the rope?
Not so sure about the blade that’s on it either. I know it’s not carbide.

So… what do you guys think?

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1267 posts in 2111 days

#15 posted 09-13-2012 12:10 AM

toolie…. thanks for the link to the manual. That was actually quite helpful.

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