Curved Frame & Panel Door

Hi Dave;

This is really something. I was looking for pictures to post earlier on using yellow glue to veneer a project with.

I couldn’t find it, but I did come across a couple photos from about twenty eight years ago, which had curved raised panels. My buddy Bruce and I built this. Don’t laugh at our pictures, we do look a LITTLE younger.

I’ll see if I can find them again, and post them.

The curved stiles need to be cut on the band saw. Since the cutter set we were using couldn’t be run to the ends of the stiles, we stopped the profiles short of the rails and brought them to the rails with carving tools.

We made a jig to allow us to use the shaper, actually a router table, to shape them.

Depending on the panel you are using, meaning if they’re veneered, you can use bendy board for the curved panels. The curve really doesn’t look that tight to require anything special, so even regular cabinet plywood should co-operate, if it isn’t too thick. If they were to give you some trouble you could steam them a little over a tea pot, but I doubt that’s necessary.

I hope this helps. Any questions, let me know. I’ll go find those pictures now and post them.

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Okay Dave, I found ‘em.

The ends, being raised panel presented some challenges, but we pulled it off.

This was the first cabinet project Bruce and I worked on together. Looking at my picture, it amazes me that anyone would hire me to do a half million dollar home renovation for them. I must have been a good talker!

I don’t want to hear any LAUGHING. Just ooh’s and aah’s on the hope chest!

Don’t make me come over there!!!

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

Lee-
You look like a young Tom Cruise….....

-- MISSION FURNITURE-My mission is to build furniture

Hi Dave;

I hope that wasn’t a wise crack. lol

Did the information help at all?

Lee

-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com

I built some serpentine-curved doors a while back. The
panels were laminated on a form with a vacuum bag -
simple to do these days.

The vertical frame parts were easy to do. I cut grooves with
a slot cutter I think. I shaped the inside edge with a round-over
bit.

Here’s where it complicated. The horizontal frame parts were
bandsawn about 1/8” oversize. I cut a few extra in case I
screwed up.

The parts were shaped with a template on a router table.

The template was used to make the grooves in the curved
parts, too. I don’t remember everything but it was a little
nerve-wracking to cut them. I used a 1/4” bit in a router table,
holding the workpiece on edge.

I shaped the 1/4” roundover in the curved parts on the router
table as well.

I left about 2” excess on the end of the pieces. I marked out the
tenon shoulders and cut them. I mortised the straight pieces and
roughed out the tenon cheeks on the bandsaw.

The cut the 1/4” rounded-over profile back at a 45 degree angle on
all four pieces and then worked the joints with patience, sharp
chisels and a square until the parts fit and things looked pretty good.

Then I put the doors together.

-- Would you like to recession-proof your present business using the internet? - my revealing 9-page free report gives you the straight facts: http://copymatch.com/rec/cap.html

Thanks to Lee and Loren-
That gives me a better idea on how to pursue the frames.
The center panels a going to be veneer over 1/4” mdf core on the face. And since the panel will be captured in the frame I am only going to veneer the face side.
As I expected, the most difficult part is going to be where the stiles and rails join.

Thanks again-
Dave

-- MISSION FURNITURE-My mission is to build furniture

I’ve started a blog on curved raised panel doors, haven’t got very far with it yet but I’ll be covering what you want to know. I’m going to try and and to it tonight some time.

-- Les, Wichita, Ks. (I'd rather be covered in saw dust!)

Thanks Les-
I will be watching for it.

Dave

-- MISSION FURNITURE-My mission is to build furniture

Dave,

First of all, if at all possible in your design, I recommend making your stiles go from top to bottom, rather than the rails going all the way across. First of all, it’s a bit more traditional and easier to “faire” the rails into the stiles.

I would use a router table with a curved guide clamped to the table. I have a picture of how I did the stub tenons on the curved panels for the drum table on my website. Although it is a stub tenon, rather than a groove, it will work the same. Here is a pic;

As I said, this is set to cut a rabbet on each side of the curved panel. But you would set up a straight bit and have it spaced from the curved guide template to cut your groove in the center of your curved rails. I used a 3/4” mdf template / fence to cut these 18” tall curved panels, but you could even double up your guide and for a much narrower rail it would be easy. Of course your guide must match your curved rail in radius.

How are you going to make your curved rails and panels? Bent lams, I’ll bet?

-- John, Chisel and Bit Custom Crafted Furniture, www.chiselandbit.com

Thanks for the reply John-
The rails only have a 3/4” bulge at the center, so they will be cut from 8/4 stock.
As for the center panel, my game plan was to use 1/4” mdf and veneer the face side. Since it will be captured in the groove I am not worried about warpage.
Or I guess I could veneer one side and let it sit till it does bow on its own, then use that radius as a template for the rails….................nah, just kidding.

Thanks for the help, and I am looking forward to posts of your next project.

Dave

-- MISSION FURNITURE-My mission is to build furniture

Since your curve isn’t dramatic I would suggest you
consider using applied moldings.

Just make the frame and cut a rabbet in the front
and drop your panel into it. You could even clamp
and glue your panel to the frame this way. The
joinery is super-easy too. Nobody seems to know
about them but I have used ROUND biscuits many
times with success. It’s a simple alternative to loose-tenon
joinery.

I’m suggesting applied moldings because I don’t
think they would be hard to bend for such a mild
curve. Just steaming the moldings and clamping them
in a bandsawn form should do the trick. Perhaps
I would bend the molding stock and then cut the
profile on the edge.

-- Would you like to recession-proof your present business using the internet? - my revealing 9-page free report gives you the straight facts: http://copymatch.com/rec/cap.html