Lubricant for TS blade height and bevel adjustment gears?

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Forum topic by tool_junkie posted 08-28-2012 05:34 PM 4907 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View tool_junkie's profile


326 posts in 2728 days

08-28-2012 05:34 PM

Hi Guys,

It is time to lubricate the height and bevel adjustment gears on my Craftsman table saw (since I am going to put a new bevel adjustment hand wheel on). I have used the following dry lubricant in the past:

Blaster 9.3 oz. Dry Lube with PTFE Lubricant

When I was inspecting the gears over the weekend, I noticed that the lubricant had hardened a bit and that makes me think I probably used the wrong type of lube.

So, the question is, has anybody used this lube before for the height and bevel gears and is it normal for it to harden (not rock solid though) over time?

Is there a better lube that can be applied?


13 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


7041 posts in 2398 days

#1 posted 08-28-2012 05:38 PM

I use paraffin.. works great and doesn’t attract dust. Others will chime in with their preferred lube shortly :)


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View mcase's profile


446 posts in 3328 days

#2 posted 08-28-2012 06:33 PM

Sawstop recommended basic auto bearing lube. It certainly works better than the lithium grease some have recommended. But, it certainly attracts dust. I might try paraffin. Any application tips Mr Unix?

View bondogaposis's profile


5088 posts in 2550 days

#3 posted 08-28-2012 06:50 PM

I like Rem oil. It is a very light gun oil that has Teflon and rust inhibitors in it. Available at just about any sporting goods store.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Tedstor's profile


1678 posts in 2832 days

#4 posted 08-28-2012 07:24 PM

I’ve found motorcycle chain lube to work well. DuPont dry lube is also highly regarded. However these products also dry to a white haze. IMO, the dried lubricant does no harm to the machine, and prevents saw dust build-up. Pretty much any type of wet lubricant, such as bearing grease, is messy to work with and attracts saw dust.
Bottom line is that the product you already applied sounds aok to me.

View NiteWalker's profile


2738 posts in 2776 days

#5 posted 08-28-2012 07:51 PM

Paste wax. I use it for the top too.
I apply it with a tooth brush I got from the dollar store for $1 for a can of 8.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

5123 posts in 4159 days

#6 posted 08-28-2012 08:42 PM

I’ve started using DuPont “Multi-Use” dry lube with Teflon. So far-so good. Got it at the blue borg.


View MrUnix's profile


7041 posts in 2398 days

#7 posted 08-28-2012 09:14 PM

I might try paraffin. Any application tips Mr Unix?

However you can get it on there!! :)

On some stuff, you can just take a bar of it and rub it on then buff.. you can also make various forms by adding it to mineral spirits, from a paste to a liquid. I keep a masons jar of wax solution around at all times so I can dunk nuts and bolts into it or dab a little on a rag and apply that way. Once the mineral spirits evaporate you are left with a nice thin film of wax. If I need it a little bit thicker, I just throw it in the fridge for a couple of minutes and it turns into a semi-paste (the saturation point of the mineral spirits with wax changes with temperature). There are a lot of different ways to do it, this just happens to be the one I use and it seems to work pretty well for me.

The above is what it looks like at room temp.. about 2 1/2 ounces of paraffin dissolved in about 8 ounces of mineral spirits. If you let it cool just a couple degrees, you can see how it starts turning into a paste:


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View 47phord's profile


182 posts in 2436 days

#8 posted 08-28-2012 09:50 PM

Dry Lube is called Dry Lube because it is DRY-which is why it looks that way. It is usually moly (molybdenum disulfide for you technical types) or sometimes graphite suspended in a wet carrier(usually mineral spirits) that evaporates shortly after application making it ideal for lubricating stuff in dirty/dusty environments (like the inside of a tablesaw for instance). The drawback to using it is it tends to wear off quickly, requiring more frequent reapplications, but it won’t attract any gunk floating around in the air. Sorry if that sounded like a lecture, I used to work in the lubricants industry and all that technical crap is still rattling around in my head…
To answer your question, I’d stay the course with the dry lube. If things are getting hard to move, just hit it with another squirt from the can.

View johnintecumseh's profile


127 posts in 3616 days

#9 posted 08-28-2012 09:51 PM

Hey Tool Junkie the best lube you can use in these situations is Bostich Blue in a spray can . a good clean first , spray, dust will not stick . keep smiling John

-- retired and smiling

View ajosephg's profile


1880 posts in 3760 days

#10 posted 08-28-2012 10:35 PM

CRC Industrial Moly Lube works well for me. It comes in an aerosol can, and sprays on dry.

-- Joe

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 2309 days

#11 posted 08-28-2012 11:52 PM

I like dry bicycle chain lubes and the generic brethren…

White Lightning or Pro Gold bicycle chain lube works great, as well as all the “drip apply” dry lubes Lowes and HD are selling these days.

Bicycle chains have similar requirements, low speed, low temp, operation, and you don’t want something wet to attract junk.

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4251 posts in 2760 days

#12 posted 08-29-2012 12:02 AM

I’ve started using DuPont “Multi-Use” dry lube with Teflon. So far-so good. Got it at the blue borg.

+1 on what Bill said


-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View tool_junkie's profile


326 posts in 2728 days

#13 posted 08-29-2012 03:14 PM


Thanks for all the valuable feedback. I think I will spray the gears with a fresh coat of what I already got and will then monitor how long it lasts and switch if necessary.


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