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| Forum topic by EarlS | posted 297 days ago | 397 views | 0 times favorited | 8 replies | ![]() |
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297 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: clamp I am making a A&C Taboret table that I found in Woodworker’s Journal. I finally managed to get the aprons cut correctly and the dry fit looks great on the legs. I’m at a loss for the best way to clamp the legs and apron pieces together since the aprons are cut at a 45 deg angle and they are also tapered. I was considering glueing up one side at a time then gluing the rest. I was also thinking about using clamps with angled blocks on both the aprons and legs. The other alternative I thought of was a strap but I’m not sure how to keep it all square and level. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. -- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected" |
8 replies so far
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#1 posted 297 days ago |
Earl, When I read this I thought of one of my a recent projects. I’m not sure if this will help in your situation, but it is here: Take a look at the second photo in the discussion. I used a combination of a screw clamp and a bar clamp. Good luck. -- "I hope that women never find out about duct tape. Once they do, men will no longer serve any useful purpose." - Dave Barry |
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#2 posted 297 days ago |
If I know I have a tapered or angled glue up to do, I always keep the offcut handy to put between the piece and the cramp jaw. Those little rubber buffers you get to stop cupboard doors banging shut work really well to stop the tapered offcuts slipping when start to tighten the cramps. -- Never trust a man in winklepickers |
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#3 posted 297 days ago |
Renners has a great point about the off-cuts. In my case there wasn’t one because I made the two sides by cutting one board at an angle. -- "I hope that women never find out about duct tape. Once they do, men will no longer serve any useful purpose." - Dave Barry |
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#4 posted 297 days ago |
What I’d do.. Assuming that it’s circumference isn’t huge. I’d assemble the entire thing upside down on a piece of plywood on your bench. I’d line it all up and trace it on the board after I got it symetrical. Then I’d place finish nails about an inch away from the outside of the legs and cut some small wedges to fit between the leg and nail. tapping the wedges will tighten the joint and tapping one more than another will allow you to line it up with your pattern drawn on the plywood. Be sure to put some wax paper under the joint so it doesn’t glue to the plywood. I’ve used this method for a number of odd shaped things from hexgon mirror frames to desks. -- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://gagnerwebsite.com/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html |
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#5 posted 297 days ago |
That is awesome, Daniel. -- "I hope that women never find out about duct tape. Once they do, men will no longer serve any useful purpose." - Dave Barry |
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#6 posted 297 days ago |
Thanks Chuck, it works really well too with regular straight joints. If you had to join two boards on edge but they were wider than your clamps will manage, the wedges will provide enough pressure to do it. I used to use it to glue 1/8” guitar tops together too. Clamp the seam in the middle down and wedge the edges. heres’ a pict of a mirror I did awhile ago. -- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://gagnerwebsite.com/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html |
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#7 posted 296 days ago |
Thanks for the advice. I will be giving it a try some time this week depending on my schedule. Eventually, they should wind up on the Project page. -- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected" |
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#8 posted 296 days ago |
Craftsman, EarlS, -- Sylvain, Brussels, Belgium, Europe - The more I learn, the more there is to learn |
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