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Forum topic by Doe posted 08-25-2012 11:13 PM 1183 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Doe

1055 posts in 1548 days


08-25-2012 11:13 PM

Topic tags/keywords: finishing sun fade question

I have a beautiful piece of Verawood that’s a lovely green colour. How do I prevent it from fading to brown? One side has already changed color. I’d like to use it as a cutting board for cheese and I have another piece that I can use for a cheese plane and maybe enough for a knife handle.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

Doe

-- Mother Nature talks, I try to listen


14 replies so far

View dhazelton's profile (online now)

dhazelton

1238 posts in 1015 days


#1 posted 08-25-2012 11:28 PM

Put it in a dark bag and then put that in a dark closet. I don’t know about Verawood but cherry darkens when exposed to light, most likely from the oils in the wood. Poplar does too, so when they look at antique dressers they look at the poplar drawer bottoms to sort of confirm the pieces age. No coating will stop it as far as I know, only non-exposure to light – so embrace it.

View oleCB's profile

oleCB

77 posts in 1399 days


#2 posted 08-25-2012 11:48 PM

I’ve been finding out the my Walnut and Cedar both turn much darker in the sun. Sucks case I have to work outside on my projects.

-- There was only one perfect carpenter... It wasn't me!

View Doe's profile

Doe

1055 posts in 1548 days


#3 posted 08-26-2012 05:53 PM

Thanks—that’s what I was afraid of.

regards,
Doe

-- Mother Nature talks, I try to listen

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2682 posts in 1069 days


#4 posted 08-26-2012 07:04 PM

Move to a cave or paint the wood. There is not really any way to prevent patina.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View WrathOfSocrus's profile

WrathOfSocrus

22 posts in 1170 days


#5 posted 08-26-2012 08:47 PM

If you are making cutting boards and such, can you make them a little thicker for resurfacing in the future? Limiting sun exposure as suggested above would work best, but if you intend for it to be more of an heirloom or show piece I would think of refinishing it in the future. Also, if you make both sides the same then you can go twice as long before refinishing.

-- "To do is to learn. A brilliant man once said that... I think he had a beard, too." - Joe Burns, HTML Goodies

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

2201 posts in 1279 days


#6 posted 08-26-2012 09:06 PM

Doe

There is afew products out there like Deft Danish Oil with UV inhibitar.

It slows down the change ALot but not permanant
Arlin

-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View tyskkvinna's profile

tyskkvinna

1308 posts in 1704 days


#7 posted 08-27-2012 12:57 AM

http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/uv-resistant-finishes.html

You want a coating with UV protection – it won’t block it completely but it will help slow it significantly. I don’t know about a food-safe finish, but I would explore this avenue more.

-- Lis - Michigan - http://www.missmooseart.com - https://www.etsy.com/people/lisbokt

View Doe's profile

Doe

1055 posts in 1548 days


#8 posted 09-02-2012 09:43 AM

Thanks everyone. WrathOfSocrus, the board is thick enough for resurfacing so I’ll add a note about it. Tyskkvinna, thanks for the link, I’m going to look at this some more. I’m concerned about the food safe aspect so I think I’ll skip it for now.

-- Mother Nature talks, I try to listen

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2098 posts in 906 days


#9 posted 09-02-2012 07:16 PM

A UV blocker will help but keeping it away from UV is likely the only saviour.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View rance's profile

rance

4145 posts in 1878 days


#10 posted 09-02-2012 07:25 PM

I like the ‘move to a cave’ approach. I would be comfortable doing that.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View SteveAltman's profile

SteveAltman

25 posts in 810 days


#11 posted 09-02-2012 09:50 PM

I don’t think you have to worry that much about verawood fading or turning brown. I’ve used it quite a bit: it starts out a boring sort of red brown when freshly cut, but then turns that beautiful green-blue slowly over a few months. I’ve never seen it turn back to brown. As a matter of fact it seems to become more green, a deeper hue, over time. Of course, all the stuff I make with it stays indoors, so I don’t know what it would be like outdoors. And you probably shouldn’t store it in direct sunlight – like anything else – but I don’t think you have to worry much about it fading.

View Doe's profile

Doe

1055 posts in 1548 days


#12 posted 09-03-2012 12:34 AM

Steve – a million thanks! Comments that I got earlier were about darkening; it never occurred to me that the green is the darkening.

Your work is stunning. Your site is fascinating—the boxes and your words. Lacewood is one of my favorite woods.

Welcome to Lumberjocks!

Best regards, Doe

-- Mother Nature talks, I try to listen

View BentheViking's profile

BentheViking

1753 posts in 1282 days


#13 posted 09-03-2012 03:40 AM

staining would prevent the color from changing but might defeat the purpose of the desired look

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

View SteveAltman's profile

SteveAltman

25 posts in 810 days


#14 posted 09-03-2012 01:41 PM

Hi,

Thank you very much for the kind words.

I’m sure this is “off-topic” but here goes:

I was looking at your projects – which are very nice – and you mentioned using “a ton of thin CA glue”. I was going to send you a personal message regarding that, but found that I cannot send personal messages until accumulating 5 posts, which might take a very long time. So I’ll mention it here: look into something called Poly All 2000. I’ve used it (for various spalted woods) and it might just serve your purpose very well.

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