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router table in need of a lot of help.

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Forum topic by Emma Walker posted 08-24-2012 02:28 PM 1553 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Emma Walker

560 posts in 863 days


08-24-2012 02:28 PM

I got this router table free I just had to go pick it up. It’s been sitting in a barn for over 20 years. It has none of the router table parts… What you see is what I got. It’s in really good shape it just needs cleaning up. Making a fence should be pretty easy. I could probably use the “sled” (I think it’s called) off of the table saw. The hard part is going to be the router mounting plate. I guess I could trace the hole on a piece of paper and cut the plate out of a piece of paneling.

Any ideas?

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.


37 replies so far

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4145 posts in 1704 days


#1 posted 08-24-2012 02:48 PM

The plate/insert might be a standard size—you’d have to measure it. If you have a Rockler near you, you can find accessories for the table that might be useful to you:

http://woodworking.rockler.com/c/router-table-accessories-a-la-carte

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

609 posts in 1818 days


#2 posted 08-24-2012 02:50 PM

I would just buy the plate that you want and modify your opening to fit it. Your opening looks pretty small so you should be able to open it up to fit most any router plate.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View TrBlu's profile

TrBlu

364 posts in 1378 days


#3 posted 08-24-2012 02:53 PM

Start by cleaning the top and checking it for flatness. I used Windex or 409 on my laminate tops.

Decide on a router for the table. Router plates are available from many sources, just depends on features you want. I have also made plates from solid surface counter material.

Fences are fairly easy to make. Search router tables on the site for a few ideas. If you look at my projects, I think I have pictures of both my tables. Might give you an idea.

Good luck. Be sure to post the after picture of you router table.

Nice find.

-- The more I work with wood the more I recognize only God can make something as beautiful as a tree. I hope my humble attempts at this craft do justice by His masterpiece. -- Tim

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 1029 days


#4 posted 08-24-2012 02:54 PM

I would find a insert plate that fits the table. I suggest buying the kreg insert plate. Good luck!

AJ

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

4486 posts in 1081 days


#5 posted 08-24-2012 02:55 PM

your plate opening does not look standard size for a Rockler plate… but may be able to be modified….

or you could make a plate out of phenolic or aluminum (depends on the equipment you have available)

post some dimensions and you’ll be able to get more detailed advice.

In general, I think it looks like it’s worth the effort to save….

Give it a good cleaning and check the top with a reliable straight edge and you’ll know for sure.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Tenfingers58's profile

Tenfingers58

82 posts in 1431 days


#6 posted 08-24-2012 02:56 PM

Emma,

I can’t tell from the pic how deep the recess is for the router. I would most likely use a plate of steel or aluminum, mainly because I have a lot of it around. Plastic works ok too if it is strong enough. Just get a piece a little thinner than the recess and shim it level with paper shims. If it were me I’d shim around the edges and around the hole to give the plate as much support as I could.

There may be a premade plate that fits your table or one that could be cut down to fit. Then again “why buy for $25 what I can build for $100” :)

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 863 days


#7 posted 08-24-2012 03:03 PM

It’s 7 3/8 by 14 and 5/16 deep

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 863 days


#8 posted 08-24-2012 03:26 PM

I just called a local glass store and they have 1/4 inch plexy glass that they will cut for $16.00
It will cost extra to have them round the corners but I told them that I can do that. The other 1/16 can be shimmed up like Tenfingers was saying.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5608 posts in 2128 days


#9 posted 08-24-2012 03:32 PM

I would think 1/4” plexi would flex too much, but maybe not with the small opening. There are standard phenolic and aluminum plates that are much stronger…some of the phenolic plates are <$30. I’d buy a standard plate, and would recut the insert opening to fit the standard plate….that way you won’t need a custom plate everytime.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Tenfingers58's profile

Tenfingers58

82 posts in 1431 days


#10 posted 08-24-2012 03:43 PM

Emma,

If the plexiglass is supported around the edges and around the router cutout hole I don’t think you will have any problems. Although, if you have a very heavy router you may want to take it out of the table when you’re not using it. A heavy router warped a 1 1/4 thick partical board toop of a friend of mine. It was in a not really dry garage though.
Good luck with your project, and work safe!

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 863 days


#11 posted 08-24-2012 03:57 PM

I’m probably going to have to make 3 different inserts with 3 different size bit holes if I make my own inserts aren’t I ?

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View JayT's profile

JayT

2634 posts in 964 days


#12 posted 08-24-2012 04:14 PM

I’m probably going to have to make 3 different inserts with 3 different size bit holes if I make my own inserts aren’t I ?

If you have to make more than one, the you will be better off recutting the opening as knotscott suggests

-- "My concern is not whether God is on our side; my greatest concern is to be on God's side, for God is always right." Abraham Lincoln

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 863 days


#13 posted 08-24-2012 04:42 PM

The insert hole is 14 inches long and I can’t one online longer than 11 1/2

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1446 days


#14 posted 08-24-2012 05:00 PM

I can’t see the picture on this computer, so I’m just going by the responses. For a fence, you can get the Freud with microadjust for under $100.
.

.
I like my benchdog plate for $60.
.

.
If you’re yet to get a router, I really like my Triton; great price, too.
.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

11479 posts in 1759 days


#15 posted 08-24-2012 05:03 PM

ill vouch for the Frued micro adjustable fence, I happen to own it, and IMO its the Kitties jammies. I used the micro adjustment to joint on it until i got a dedicated jointer.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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