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router table in need of a lot of help.

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Forum topic by Emma Walker posted 689 days ago 1383 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Emma Walker

560 posts in 698 days


689 days ago

I got this router table free I just had to go pick it up. It’s been sitting in a barn for over 20 years. It has none of the router table parts… What you see is what I got. It’s in really good shape it just needs cleaning up. Making a fence should be pretty easy. I could probably use the “sled” (I think it’s called) off of the table saw. The hard part is going to be the router mounting plate. I guess I could trace the hole on a piece of paper and cut the plate out of a piece of paneling.

Any ideas?

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.


37 replies so far

View Brandon's profile

Brandon

4136 posts in 1538 days


#1 posted 689 days ago

The plate/insert might be a standard size—you’d have to measure it. If you have a Rockler near you, you can find accessories for the table that might be useful to you:

http://woodworking.rockler.com/c/router-table-accessories-a-la-carte

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View pmayer's profile

pmayer

565 posts in 1652 days


#2 posted 689 days ago

I would just buy the plate that you want and modify your opening to fit it. Your opening looks pretty small so you should be able to open it up to fit most any router plate.

-- PaulMayer, http://www.vernswoodgoods.com

View TrBlu's profile

TrBlu

357 posts in 1213 days


#3 posted 689 days ago

Start by cleaning the top and checking it for flatness. I used Windex or 409 on my laminate tops.

Decide on a router for the table. Router plates are available from many sources, just depends on features you want. I have also made plates from solid surface counter material.

Fences are fairly easy to make. Search router tables on the site for a few ideas. If you look at my projects, I think I have pictures of both my tables. Might give you an idea.

Good luck. Be sure to post the after picture of you router table.

Nice find.

-- The more I work with wood the more I recognize only God can make something as beautiful as a tree. I hope my humble attempts at this craft do justice by His masterpiece. -- Tim

View AJswoodshop's profile

AJswoodshop

1057 posts in 863 days


#4 posted 689 days ago

I would find a insert plate that fits the table. I suggest buying the kreg insert plate. Good luck!

AJ

-- If I can do it.....so can you! -AJswoodshop

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3807 posts in 915 days


#5 posted 689 days ago

your plate opening does not look standard size for a Rockler plate… but may be able to be modified….

or you could make a plate out of phenolic or aluminum (depends on the equipment you have available)

post some dimensions and you’ll be able to get more detailed advice.

In general, I think it looks like it’s worth the effort to save….

Give it a good cleaning and check the top with a reliable straight edge and you’ll know for sure.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Tenfingers58's profile

Tenfingers58

77 posts in 1265 days


#6 posted 689 days ago

Emma,

I can’t tell from the pic how deep the recess is for the router. I would most likely use a plate of steel or aluminum, mainly because I have a lot of it around. Plastic works ok too if it is strong enough. Just get a piece a little thinner than the recess and shim it level with paper shims. If it were me I’d shim around the edges and around the hole to give the plate as much support as I could.

There may be a premade plate that fits your table or one that could be cut down to fit. Then again “why buy for $25 what I can build for $100” :)

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 698 days


#7 posted 689 days ago

It’s 7 3/8 by 14 and 5/16 deep

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 698 days


#8 posted 689 days ago

I just called a local glass store and they have 1/4 inch plexy glass that they will cut for $16.00
It will cost extra to have them round the corners but I told them that I can do that. The other 1/16 can be shimmed up like Tenfingers was saying.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5355 posts in 1963 days


#9 posted 689 days ago

I would think 1/4” plexi would flex too much, but maybe not with the small opening. There are standard phenolic and aluminum plates that are much stronger…some of the phenolic plates are <$30. I’d buy a standard plate, and would recut the insert opening to fit the standard plate….that way you won’t need a custom plate everytime.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Tenfingers58's profile

Tenfingers58

77 posts in 1265 days


#10 posted 689 days ago

Emma,

If the plexiglass is supported around the edges and around the router cutout hole I don’t think you will have any problems. Although, if you have a very heavy router you may want to take it out of the table when you’re not using it. A heavy router warped a 1 1/4 thick partical board toop of a friend of mine. It was in a not really dry garage though.
Good luck with your project, and work safe!

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 698 days


#11 posted 688 days ago

I’m probably going to have to make 3 different inserts with 3 different size bit holes if I make my own inserts aren’t I ?

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View JayT's profile

JayT

2053 posts in 798 days


#12 posted 688 days ago

I’m probably going to have to make 3 different inserts with 3 different size bit holes if I make my own inserts aren’t I ?

If you have to make more than one, the you will be better off recutting the opening as knotscott suggests

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 698 days


#13 posted 688 days ago

The insert hole is 14 inches long and I can’t one online longer than 11 1/2

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1280 days


#14 posted 688 days ago

I can’t see the picture on this computer, so I’m just going by the responses. For a fence, you can get the Freud with microadjust for under $100.
.

.
I like my benchdog plate for $60.
.

.
If you’re yet to get a router, I really like my Triton; great price, too.
.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View chrisstef's profile (online now)

chrisstef

10269 posts in 1593 days


#15 posted 688 days ago

ill vouch for the Frued micro adjustable fence, I happen to own it, and IMO its the Kitties jammies. I used the micro adjustment to joint on it until i got a dedicated jointer.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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