Resaw problems

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Forum topic by WoodenSoldier posted 08-23-2012 10:41 PM 2548 views 2 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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161 posts in 3185 days

08-23-2012 10:41 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resaw

Hi everyone,
Let me start off with saying I don’t have a ton of resaw experience. I’ve done it a little on small pieces, probably 6” wide max. This might be more than me or my bandsaw are capable of.

I’m working on a bed, and the rails are 8/4 sapele but I want to get them down to 1.25” I would like to save some of the material maybe just .25” at least and just give up the other .25” to the saw kerf and waste that will get planed off. My bandsaw is a Jet 16” with a 3/4” hook and tooth blade and the its max resaw height is 10”

As you can see, the board pretty much maxes my saw out. So I got started and quickly got nowhere. The blade did not stay straight and came out the side (luckily the waste side).
As you can see, it didn’t come out evenly either. I was just following a scribed line on the board, no fence.

Any advice anybody can offer? I really don’t want to have to plane down 1/2” of wood from all the rails.

-- Create something everyday.

20 replies so far

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2727 days

#1 posted 08-23-2012 10:47 PM

I don’t have a bandsaw with that large a resaw capability but I always use a fence or at least a pin to locate the blade to the edge of the board for thickness.

I think it’s pretty much impossible to hold the board absolutely vertical without a fence or a pin.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4258 posts in 2801 days

#2 posted 08-23-2012 11:01 PM

My Grizzly resaws at 17” and I always use a fence at least 8” tall

Also check your tracking to make sure it is straight and your guides are not pushing it to one side.

-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View rrww's profile


263 posts in 2353 days

#3 posted 08-23-2012 11:11 PM

+1 on checking the bearings / guides they should be close as possible without touching

Check make sure the teeth of the blade are tracking on the center of the top wheel?

Have you checked the blade tension?

Good Luck!

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3888 days

#4 posted 08-23-2012 11:17 PM

Resaw it part way through on both edges with your table saw and then
the band will just follow that kerf.

Resawing wide boards takes a lot of fiddling with a general purpose
saw like that. Get as wide a blade as the saw will take and with
the biggest gullets you can find.

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4258 posts in 2801 days

#5 posted 08-23-2012 11:29 PM

+50 on blade tension…I forgot about that which is the biggest problem of all


-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View rockindavan's profile


299 posts in 2876 days

#6 posted 08-23-2012 11:36 PM

Did you set your fence to the drift of the blade?

View TheOldTimer's profile


226 posts in 3326 days

#7 posted 08-23-2012 11:37 PM

Check out this video:

-- TheOldTimer,Chandler Arizona

View DKV's profile


3940 posts in 2744 days

#8 posted 08-23-2012 11:54 PM

Rockindavan has the answer. Anytime your blade wanders out the side and you are using a fence to try and maintain your cut the problem is blade drift. You have to make sure your fence is set for your unique drift. Also, anytime you change your blade size you have to check your drift and reset your fence. Youtube has some very good videos on how to set your fence for drift. ALL bandsaws have some amount of drift. Here’s the one I like.

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

View nwbusa's profile


1021 posts in 2526 days

#9 posted 08-24-2012 01:05 AM

Thanks DKV, that’s good info to know when I get my bandsaw.

-- John, BC, Canada

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2413 days

#10 posted 08-24-2012 04:21 PM

+1 on Loren’s suggestion. But if you don’t have a table saw, and having no plans of buying either, change to the widest blade that your saw can take. I think the band saw can do the job. Narrow blades can’t take re sawing wider boards. Then choose a blade with bigger gullet space. The lesser the tpi of the blade, the bigger the gullet can be. Best blade to choose is less than 3 tpi. After changing the blades, it also recommended to check the tension and the tracking of the blade. Make sure you apply the proper tension.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View DKV's profile


3940 posts in 2744 days

#11 posted 08-24-2012 04:47 PM

I use Loren’s approach also. However, make sure you have jointed the edges prior. The board should be perpendicular to the tablesaw when using Loren’s method. Gives you stability.

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

View Rex B's profile

Rex B

320 posts in 2490 days

#12 posted 08-24-2012 05:31 PM

There is some good advice here. I will add that you may need to try a blade with fewer tpi for boards that wide. Here is a good explanation of why.

EDIT: I just realized that Surfside gave this same advice, and I agree with everything he said.

-- Rex

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2413 days

#13 posted 08-24-2012 06:20 PM

Rex, I learned everything I said from the same link you’ve posted. Seems like we both have the same mentor.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View RS Woodworks's profile

RS Woodworks

533 posts in 3492 days

#14 posted 08-24-2012 06:33 PM

Your problem is not using no fence. I use no fence for resawing all the time with no issues. You need to understand a little bit about how the blade acts while resawing. To gain this understanding, read this site, and watch the video at the end.
The absolute most important thing to have set up properly is adequate blade tension. Chances are pretty good that your saw is incapable of properly tensioning a 3/4 blade. Try a” 5/8 carbide blade. Then, get a high tension spring your bandsaw. Then, set the tension almost as high as it will go on your bandsaw, leaving only a little bit of room for vibration absorbtion.
You will be cutting straight in no time.


-- I restore the finest vintage tools! If you need a nice plane, saw, marking tool or brace, please let me know!

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3291 days

#15 posted 08-25-2012 03:32 AM

Good advice here. Now take the final step and read this and do what he says precisely.
A good 2/3 tpi blade with hook gullets will go a long way towards solving your problems., recommended by Ryan will help explain what’s going on.

One other thing, a good fence is essentiall and you don’t have to spend a gazillion dollars for one. Read this and adapt it to your saw.

To fly in the face of conventional wisdom, bandsaws don’t drift normally. If they are set up properly, have the PROPER BLADE FOR THE CUT, are SHARP, and you dont push too hard trying to set a speed record, there will be no drift for which to adjust. Read every word in the Fortune article and follow up on Mathias Wandell’s site
( as to the physics involved—read about beam strength—and follow up with his article on sharpening a bandsaw blade. When one that is properly set up starts to drift, it’s dull. Don’t throw it away, sharpen it. He does it with a Dremel, but when I’m in a hurry, I do it like this or like this

I’ve used all 3 methods and all 3 work well. You’d be surprised how many times you can sharpen a bandsaw blade. I use high carbon 1/2” from BCSaw in Toronto (like Fortune) and at $!0 or so each, my cost is almost zilch after a few sharpenings.

You’re nowhere near your saw’s capacity. Read these articles, take the cumulative advice you’ve been given and have fun. Sapele is my favorite wood, tied with cherry. Understanding the process is the key to getting the most out of your tool and your wood.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

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