LumberJocks

Heating and Cooling the Shop

  • Advertise with us

« back to Focus on the Workspace forum

Forum topic by Glen posted 608 days ago 1332 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Glen's profile

Glen

97 posts in 1582 days


608 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am going to be building a 20×30 foot garage workshop and am wondering what is the best way to heat and cool it. I live in Wisconsin so I will need a good heating system. I do not really want a forced air system because of the dust. Would infrared heating be good for a woodworking workshop? I am thinking that
I would have to wait too long for the shop to heat up if I go with an in-floor heating system. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Glen

-- Glen


13 replies so far

View benchbuilder's profile

benchbuilder

73 posts in 955 days


#1 posted 608 days ago

Hi Glen, I use two 8000 watt electric heaters, one on each end of the shop, and a fan in the window for summer time, but would like a small ac system for summer time. My shop is 20×22 and the two heaters are more than I need, but wasn’t sure when I installed them. You should insulate very well and if you spend too much on insulation you will get it back in heat savings. I guess it depends on where you live and how high your electric bill is. I seen about a 15 increase per mo with the heaters. but I only keep it at 65 during the winter mos.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

3526 posts in 833 days


#2 posted 608 days ago

Electric heater to keep it above freezing…

wood stove to warm it up when you’re in it….. and to dispose of your scrap :^)

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Moron's profile

Moron

4666 posts in 2398 days


#3 posted 608 days ago

in floor heating

you leave it on. I heated 3,000 sq ft, 12’ ceilings, overhead door, to 70 degrees in Central Ontario (nasty nasty winter) for around 300 bucks for the entire year.

Too cool it. I put fans in up high, on opposite walls, one blowing out, one sucking in, left it on in the evening and nice and cool all day long.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View AJLastra's profile

AJLastra

86 posts in 734 days


#4 posted 608 days ago

Glen

as was mentioned earlier, if you don’t sufficiently insulate the space, its not going to matter what manner you use to heat or cool. I dont have a space as large as yours…............its a detached car and a half garage but it went uninsulated for the past few years. I insulated with R19 in the walls and R30 in the ceiling before last winter. I live in Ohio, and while the winter last year was more mild than usual, it was still plenty cold enough. I was able to use a Coleman propane heater with adequate ventilation in that space and within 30 minutes of turning the unit on, I could work in shirt sleeves. Not sure why you feel in floor heating wouldn’t work. That would be the Ulimate for me! I think you’d be just fine with that heating system. For what its worth, Norm Abram used that system for the New Yankee Workshop in a rather large space. I dont mention that simply because it was Norms shop. I mention it because he had a large shop but it was also insulated. You could use forced air mounted on one side of the ceiling and a good dust filter system on the other like a JDS 750. thats what I do. I leave the JDS on all day and all night. Very quiet and very effective if you use it along with other dust collection in your shop. I hook all the sanding tools up to a tool activated shop vac (Fein Turbo II) There is very little dust.

View NedB's profile

NedB

649 posts in 2071 days


#5 posted 607 days ago

Check out Builditsolar.com, look under projects and then passive solar. There are several ways to incorporate passive solar systems into your build and they can greatly reduce your need for conventional heating systems.

-- Ned - 2B1ASK1 http://nedswoodshop.blogspot.com

View stefang's profile

stefang

11826 posts in 1839 days


#6 posted 607 days ago

Hi Glen, I have a fully insulated shop of about 220sg.ft. I use a small electric oil radiator. I leave the heat on all the time as it takes a long time to get it heated enough for comfortable working otherwise. That way I can use the shop whenever my wife allows me to, lol. The heater is thermostat controlled and I keep it to about 18C. I find that my vacuum cleaner exhaust and florescent lighting generate quite a bit of heat too, so the temperature rises while I’m working and the heater is often not on during that time. I don’t really know how economical my setup is, but I can work comfortably in any weather. Good luck on your build.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View stevenhugg's profile

stevenhugg

1 post in 323 days


#7 posted 323 days ago

Follow the above mentioned simple maintenance tips and you can prolong the life of your HVAC equipment and improve the air quality inside of your home. Regular maintenance done by professionals can be used to detect small problems before they become big problems and costly HVAC appliance damage.
heating and cooling Toronto

-- www.cosmopolitanmechanical.com

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

496 posts in 814 days


#8 posted 323 days ago

I’ve never understood the concerns of forced air in a shop. I’ve used forced air in my shop for well over 20 and don’t experience the blowing dust that always comes up in these heating threads.

Lots of guys buy in install shop air cleaners in their shop but shy away from forced air heat???

A forced air furnace is basically the same thing except it blows heated air. The air comes though a air filter just like an shop air cleaner.

This is my forced air furnace, very similar to the air cleaner box. (95% efficient)

I spray finish in my shop all the time with the furnace running and get good results. I think it’s an non issue. This is an off the gun finish.

I can’t help with cooling, something I never need here.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View moke's profile

moke

443 posts in 1281 days


#9 posted 323 days ago

I think this is pertinent to this discussion….
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50311

I also am in charge of a budget for the saftey center for our town. We have radiant heat in our apparatus bays. They are fairly new, we had forced heat in the old bays…while our bays are double the size, our bill is four times the price of the old center, with vastly increased insulation. Since we installed them at the request of the architiect, I have really done some investigating and found that many others have a similar experience….I might go another way…
Mike

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1486 posts in 998 days


#10 posted 323 days ago

The 2 things I would give careful consideration too with the radiant heaters is 1: (to build on what moke said) the operating cost, and 2: the ceiling height. Forced air isn’t the best alternative for a wood shop, but what I’;ve found is that it is a lot less bad than I imagined. With a good DC and an ambient air cleaner, the dust problem is minimal and manageable. Add to that the lower operating cost than some of the alternatives, the ability to bring the temp up fairly quickly, and a reasonable installation cost it still may be worth it for you to consider.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3196 posts in 2465 days


#11 posted 320 days ago

#1 suggestion for whatever system you decide…...insulate the shop, insulate the shop, insulate the shop and ceiling.
Wanna know how I REALLY feel?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

1560 posts in 1736 days


#12 posted 320 days ago

Last summer it was 102 in the garage (my shop) here in the Houston, Tx area. Same temp outside. I had previously insulated the outside wall and installed an energy efficient overhead door.

Then, I installed a split system AC w/heat pump and…had 11 inches of blown insulation (R38) put in the ceiling. That made a tremendous difference. No problem maintaining 77 deg in the same heat. Today it is 91 outside, 74 in the shop! :-)

My point is the ceiling insulation made a big difference keeping out the radiant heat from the roof which is a basic shingled roof.

Note: I went with the split system so I could install the outside unit behind our privacy fence and not have to deal with the homeowners assoc. Also, the insulation really helped suppress the sound. I have asked my next door neighbor if the noise bothers them at night and he has repeatedly said he doesn’t hear anything. I like that.

Good luck with your shop. I wish I had that much room. It should work great for you.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View swandog's profile

swandog

15 posts in 477 days


#13 posted 308 days ago

I have a radiant tube heater (nat gas) in an attached 3stall garage. (in Mpls) I keep it around 50deg F during the week and then turn it up to 65 on the weekends if I”m fortunate enough to find time to work out there. My ceilings are 12’ so that works good for radiant tube heater. As others have said…insulate,insulate,insulate…if you don’t you’re just heating the outdoors…If I were building I’d do radiant floor heat all the way…insulate the slab really well…that is the way to go.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase