Sources for Wood Slicer and Timber Wolf band saw blades

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Forum topic by JesseTutt posted 08-23-2012 01:06 AM 7605 views 3 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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854 posts in 2352 days

08-23-2012 01:06 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw resaw

Well today I committed to the Grizzly 17” bandsaw.

Now it is time to find good blades for resaw. I was planning on using a 3/4” blade. From various posts the top two blades seem to be either the Wood Slicer or the Timber Wolf. I thought I would buy one of each and compare the results.

For the Wood Slicer blade I could only find it being sold by Highland Woodworker.

Several places stock the Timber Wolf.

Where would I find the cheapest price for both?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

13 replies so far

View horologist's profile


104 posts in 3981 days

#1 posted 08-23-2012 01:16 AM

As far as I know Highland is the only place for the Wood Slicer. I liked the blade so much I never tried anything else and will be interested to see the results of your testing.

-- Troy in Melrose, Florida

View cliff56's profile


10 posts in 2419 days

#2 posted 08-23-2012 01:25 AM

you can’t go wrong with the woodslicer have used both anf like the woodslicer best and the price is good too , fast friendly service.

View ChuckV's profile


3184 posts in 3769 days

#3 posted 08-23-2012 01:31 AM

I buy Timber Wolf blades from the manufacturer, Suffolk Machinery (

I’m not sure that they are the cheapest, but they are extremely helpful if you have any questions. Sometimes they have specials like “buy 3 and get one free”. The web site has lots of great information. The last time I bought from them, they were not taking orders online, only by phone. But, now it looks like you could order from the web site.

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View Arlin Eastman's profile

Arlin Eastman

4258 posts in 2803 days

#4 posted 08-23-2012 01:31 AM

I bought the 3/4 Timberwolf from Grizzly and really like it, however, I am always up to trying something different like the Laguna Resaw King. Now that is a blade and for $260 it should be.


-- It is always the right time, to do the right thing.

View jeth's profile


262 posts in 3080 days

#5 posted 08-23-2012 01:32 AM

I ordered some of these, , having been tipped off that they are the same blade as the woodslicer, spec is certainly the same and I have found them to be excellent.. a fair saving over highlands price on the slicer too ;)

View pierce85's profile


508 posts in 2804 days

#6 posted 08-23-2012 01:33 AM

The exact same blade as the woodslicer is sold under the Lenox brand name “KERFMaster” and can be purchased much cheaper, e.g., at Spectrum Supply –

Oops, I see jeth beat me to it by a few seconds.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2932 days

#7 posted 08-23-2012 02:33 AM

My favorite resaw blade is the 1”, 1 TPI, bi-metal from Timberwolf. It cuts through 12” logs faster than I am comfortable with. It is not in their catalog but just call. That is now the only resaw blade I use on my 17” Grizzly Extreme Model.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Fred Hargis

5244 posts in 2735 days

#8 posted 08-23-2012 11:06 AM

Iturra Design in Jacksonville FL sells the same blade stock as the Woolslicer, but they call it the Bladerunner (and it’s cheaper than HH). As I understand it, HH has copyrighted the Woodslicer name so they are the sole retailers for it. If you’ve not heard of Iturra design, It’s a small business that has a catalog considered a bible for 14” bandsaw owners, but they sell items for other sizes as well. No website, no toll free number, but call (904) 642-2802 between 10AM-5PM eastern, and you probably get Louis in person. Already mentioned is Suffolk Machinery for the Timberwolf blades, my experience has been nothing but great.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View toolie's profile


2148 posts in 2870 days

#9 posted 08-23-2012 01:34 PM

+1 on iturra design. old school and really knows his stuff. if you’re getting a new BS, i’d stay as far away from timberwolf blades as possible. 4 new blades, all with misaligned welds, sent me on a 2 month wild goose chase trying to fix a blade loping problem that i thought was machine based. the blades were new so they couldn’t be the problem. but they were. one properly welded blade form iturra and the saw performed like the decidedly very average 18” jet BS that it was. but the blade loping was gone. timberworlf blades? not for me, ever again. nice people who tried to be helpful. they just can’t weld BS blades.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2352 days

#10 posted 08-23-2012 08:50 PM

Toolie: How can you tell if a bandsaw blade is properly welded?

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View JesseTutt's profile


854 posts in 2352 days

#11 posted 08-23-2012 09:42 PM

ChuckV: Thanks for the info. I ordered a blade for testing.

I will look into ordering a KerfMaster tomorrow.

-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2415 days

#12 posted 08-24-2012 04:30 PM

Feel the welded part of the blade by your bare hands. The weld should be smooth and coplanar with the blade. The welded part should be between the gullet area and not on the blade tooth. The best quality blades that I’ve used so far is from my source online:

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View toolie's profile


2148 posts in 2870 days

#13 posted 08-24-2012 04:42 PM

jessetutt…..there are two ways that are readily apparent. first, observe it’s motion on the upper band asaw wheel relative to the movement of the wheel. if the wheel rotates concentrically, and the blades oscillates as it circumnavigates the wheel, this is caused by a misalignment @ the weld point. this video demostrates it well:

that’s a new, never cut a lick of material, 1/2” 6 TPI timberwolf blade.

second, place a blade with a suspect weld spine side gown on a dead flat surface and observe it’s relationship to the flat surface. suspect welds will have a slight space between the blade and the flat surface.

i’m sure there are other ways to determine if a blade has a defective weld in addition to those that i mentioned.

as far as t-wolf blades are concerned, they are nice people who are well intentioned. they just don’t know how to weld band saw blades.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

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