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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 707 days ago 794 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2938 posts in 884 days


707 days ago

The other day I stopped at my favorite overstock tool and tile place and found some nice large tiles for $0.30 a piece. So I got a couple of each kind.

I am making these tables to go with a couple Adirondack chairs as a set.

I want some critical advise here. I want you to be brutal but nice, lol.

How can I make this better or different. Keep $ in mind, this table takes a day to make and costs about $30 as is.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


22 replies so far

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DKV

3058 posts in 1101 days


#1 posted 707 days ago

You almost have book matched opposing sides. Book matching some wild wood would (wood would, is there such a thing) be very good looking with some wild color/design in the middle.

-- 2014 will be a different year...at least for me it will.

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waho6o9

4744 posts in 1174 days


#2 posted 707 days ago

Good one Russell
I might suggest using clear wood as they knots are
a distraction.

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RussellAP

2938 posts in 884 days


#3 posted 707 days ago

Waho6o9, You’d be hard pressed to find 20 inches on a cedar board without a knot.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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DKV

3058 posts in 1101 days


#4 posted 707 days ago

I looks like wah and I are again in disagreement. Oh, well what’s new.

-- 2014 will be a different year...at least for me it will.

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Don W

14615 posts in 1165 days


#5 posted 707 days ago

Russell, I think it looks great. A few possible improvements, and they are subjective, so some may disagree.

The legs would look better if they were 5/4” to give a heavier look.
The corners on the 3/4” wrap seems to draw my eye away from the tile. try cutting the wrap size in half, using a thinner stock. Maybe even miter those corners.

Another possibility, (not an improvement, just different) Is make the top grain all go the same direction.
Lap joint the wrap so you don’t see it from the top would be another possible change.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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Dallas

2854 posts in 1084 days


#6 posted 707 days ago

My suggestion would be to miter or lock miter or mortice/tenon the corners of the skirt.
What you have there is but joints that go the same direction on the skirt and on the table face.
At the least, make them go opposite directions. The whole thing will be stronger and it will break up the monotony of the top.

You really can’t get clear cedar there? Wow, I bought a bunch of fence boards at our local mom and pop Ace Hardware and I had a difficult time finding any with knots big enough for what I needed!

Edit:
I agree with all Don W said, plus just now thinking about it, make the table top on a 45° angle.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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RussellAP

2938 posts in 884 days


#7 posted 707 days ago

Don, I was also thinking that maybe I could have the table top on top of the frame thus eliminating any extra work on the frame. The size of the tile pretty much dictates what the surface will look like and I’m having a hard time making the decision as to whether I should have a solid surface or a slotted one. I’d think setting the tile would be hard to do on a slotted surface.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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RussellAP

2938 posts in 884 days


#8 posted 707 days ago

Dallas, I haven’t been using fencing cedar. I just buy the dimensional lumber. I bet the cedar fencing looks nice after you plane it. Never thought of that.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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RussellAP

2938 posts in 884 days


#9 posted 707 days ago

Does anybody know what widths cedar fencing comes in. Can you get it as wide as 8 inches?

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

4744 posts in 1174 days


#10 posted 707 days ago

http://www.yellowpages.com/lees-summit-mo/lumber

McCray Lumber looks like it will have quality lumber.

View Jorge G.'s profile

Jorge G.

1523 posts in 1072 days


#11 posted 707 days ago

Nothing, the table is perfect as is from the design element. It fits with the chairs, it costs $30 and a day to make, it is just perfect.

The hardest thing to make is furniture that fits with the surrounding decor.

-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.

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CplSteel

142 posts in 761 days


#12 posted 707 days ago

It’s good looking work. I wouldn’t mind seeing many of the suggestions above put into place. Miter the corners and thicker legs. One “fun” thing you can do is build a set of similar, but not identical tables. I have seen this done with chairs and i like the idea. you change enough to make it noticeable, but keep enough of the elements similar that They clearly belong in the same family. Ofcourse you may not want or need three tables, just a thought that would let you experiment.

View Emma Walker's profile

Emma Walker

560 posts in 708 days


#13 posted 707 days ago

I like it and I like the knots but there should have been a knot in the lower left corner to even every thing out… and the legs are to thin. Looks like if you set a keg of beer on it it would fall over.

-- I'm a twisted 2x4 in a pile of straight lumber.

View RetiredCoastie's profile

RetiredCoastie

999 posts in 1780 days


#14 posted 707 days ago

Actually I like it and it goes with the chairs. The knots give it Character. Time will tell as far as the wood movement with the different grain directions. Nice piece!

-- www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

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Richforever

739 posts in 2317 days


#15 posted 707 days ago

I agree that the legs look too thin.
Another idea is to cut small white tiles to go around the perimeter. This would mirror the center tile and add another design element. The tiles could be on the top just inside the edging or vertically imbedded in the outside of the edging itself.

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

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