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What is the best way to fix this?

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Forum topic by WoodHoarder posted 713 days ago 688 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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WoodHoarder

31 posts in 884 days


713 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’m hoping to pull upon the wisdom of more experienced lumberjocks in this this regard. The project is a pair of exterior french doors. The joints are drawbore joints. I’m no stranger to mortise and tenon joints, but I felt i needed the added strength by adding pins.

So, I drilled the holes in the mortises and drilled the tenons with a 1/32 offset. I added a chamfer to the dowels. When it came time for assembly I gave the dowels a good whack with my hammer and the above picture is the result. My wife came running out probably thinking I had cut my finger off with the amount of cursing.

The nicely seasoned cedar had blown out the back. Well, lesson learned. On the other joints, I sharpened the dowels to a nice point and gently tapped them in.

Still, I am stuck dealing with the blowout. The door is going to be painted and will be exposed to direct sunlight. It is southern CA so the weather is not particularly extreme. The joint itself turned out to be very solid despite the blowout. I have considered filling it with tight bond III and sanding it flush, or gluing the broken pieces back in.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

-- Christ was a carpenter...a fact that humbles and inspires me.


5 replies so far

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CharlieM1958

15667 posts in 2821 days


#1 posted 713 days ago

Auto body filler (Bondo) will fill things like that nicely. Leave it a little proud of the surface, and sand flat when dry.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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Richard

400 posts in 1294 days


#2 posted 713 days ago

Charlie is right, bondo is the way to go if it’s going to be painted. I fixed a rusty set of hand rails that way once. After sanding and paint you could not tell where the repair had been made.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112001 posts in 2180 days


#3 posted 713 days ago

It’s a little hard to see in the photo.Bondo will work or you can cut it flush and drill about 1/8” deep and put an inlay in it chiseled square or drilled round. This would be great inlay practice. If you screw it up there’s always bondo to fall back on.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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WoodHoarder

31 posts in 884 days


#4 posted 712 days ago

Thanks for the advice. You guys are awesome!

-- Christ was a carpenter...a fact that humbles and inspires me.

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Ger21

619 posts in 1733 days


#5 posted 711 days ago

I wouldn’t use bondo, as over time it will loosen from wood movement. I’d use epoxy with a sandable filler. It won’t ever come loose.

-- Gerry, http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/CNC_Woodworker.html

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