Router table question

PSSSSTT. C’mhere a little closer and I will tell you a secret: – Small pieces of thick acrylic and phenolic sheeting will turn up in your local glass supplier’s dumpster on a weekly basis. Acrylic far more frequently than phenolic, but it will show up. Bring gloves, because this will be in a dumpster full of broken glass.

I know because I tried to buy small pieces from them and they told me they didn’t sell it. They didn’t explain that they don’t sell it to ME.

Also, look to see if you have a recycled home center (often called “restores”). They frequently have pieces that can be scavenged.

In return for this advice, I would like some details about how you mounted the extension, as I have a TS3650 as well.

About the best plastic you can get is Lexan. You only need a small piece say 9”x12”.

3/8” is best.

If you have a plastics seller close they might just give you some “scrap”.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

If you can’t get scrap, check out these guys. Free shipping.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

Tim – That’s a pretty good deal for under $19 with free shipping.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Around here, you go check the scrap bin at TAP Plastics. They’ll charge a few bucks for it, depending on how you talk to ‘em that could be a very few bucks.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

Thanks for the leads guys. I’ll do some hunting around and see what I come up with. That $19 kit looks pretty good too. They might charge me duty though so I doubt I’ll take the risk.

robdew,

I mounted the table using 3/4” aluminum angle. I attached it flush with the three edges of the board that meet the saw. I found that 5/16 sized bolts work best with the rails. I think that’s the size; I know the head was about 1/2” anyway. I drilled a couple holes in the table top. I used 6 bolts in total, 2 on each of the three sides. The underside of the table has a sort of box attached with screws just to keep the table top from bending in the centre (you can make it out from the location of my dowel plugs in the picture). Then from the table to the saw’s base I attached some support legs. This allows me to move the saw around. Hope that all makes good sense. I should probably just take more pictures!

Anyway, I found this way of mounting it keeps the board very flat. I’ve seen a lot of tables made with doubled up boards about 1 1/2” thick. I’d like that stability but I didn’t want to put that much strain on my fence rails. Heck I think my router weighs in at 10 lbs so I’ve got to cut weight where I can!

>I should probably just take more pictures!

That would be appreciated as well, thanks.

Nice work, Rob.

Thanks for the link to the router stuff, Tim.

-- John

whenthe brain start the wood will dance.
THANK YOU SIR

-- Suliman , Syria, jablah ,

robdew,

Here are some more pics…

In this one you can see how the angle is connected to the fence and the saw top, and as well you can see half the support box that helps keep the top flat.

And here you can see the support from the router table to the saw base that hopefully will keep my fence rails from bending out of shape!

And here you can see the plugs that hide the screws that hold the box in place. Also you can see the penciled in circle that will one day be where my router lies beneath somehow.