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Forum topic by Rob posted 2096 days ago 1079 views 1 time favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rob

197 posts in 2168 days


2096 days ago

Here is a router extension table I just added to my table saw…

IMG_1112

I was going to make a plastic insert but the smallest sheet over at HD costs $72 if you can believe it. I could buy a proper insert from Lee Valley for half that. However I was planning on keeping the cost down if possible. Does anyone know where I can buy plastic sheets for less?

Or should I just go with this from LV?

So basically my question is, should I make my own or go commercial here? I welcome your opinions.


11 replies so far

View robdew's profile

robdew

84 posts in 2215 days


#1 posted 2096 days ago

PSSSSTT. C’mhere a little closer and I will tell you a secret: – Small pieces of thick acrylic and phenolic sheeting will turn up in your local glass supplier’s dumpster on a weekly basis. Acrylic far more frequently than phenolic, but it will show up. Bring gloves, because this will be in a dumpster full of broken glass.

I know because I tried to buy small pieces from them and they told me they didn’t sell it. They didn’t explain that they don’t sell it to ME.

Also, look to see if you have a recycled home center (often called “restores”). They frequently have pieces that can be scavenged.

In return for this advice, I would like some details about how you mounted the extension, as I have a TS3650 as well.

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2488 days


#2 posted 2096 days ago

About the best plastic you can get is Lexan. You only need a small piece say 9”x12”.

3/8” is best.

If you have a plastics seller close they might just give you some “scrap”.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2244 days


#3 posted 2096 days ago

If you can’t get scrap, check out these guys. Free shipping.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html

-- Tim

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GaryK

10262 posts in 2488 days


#4 posted 2096 days ago

Tim – That’s a pretty good deal for under $19 with free shipping.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1455 posts in 2625 days


#5 posted 2096 days ago

Around here, you go check the scrap bin at TAP Plastics. They’ll charge a few bucks for it, depending on how you talk to ‘em that could be a very few bucks.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View Rob 's profile

Rob

197 posts in 2168 days


#6 posted 2096 days ago

Thanks for the leads guys. I’ll do some hunting around and see what I come up with. That $19 kit looks pretty good too. They might charge me duty though so I doubt I’ll take the risk.

robdew,

I mounted the table using 3/4” aluminum angle. I attached it flush with the three edges of the board that meet the saw. I found that 5/16 sized bolts work best with the rails. I think that’s the size; I know the head was about 1/2” anyway. I drilled a couple holes in the table top. I used 6 bolts in total, 2 on each of the three sides. The underside of the table has a sort of box attached with screws just to keep the table top from bending in the centre (you can make it out from the location of my dowel plugs in the picture). Then from the table to the saw’s base I attached some support legs. This allows me to move the saw around. Hope that all makes good sense. I should probably just take more pictures!

Anyway, I found this way of mounting it keeps the board very flat. I’ve seen a lot of tables made with doubled up boards about 1 1/2” thick. I’d like that stability but I didn’t want to put that much strain on my fence rails. Heck I think my router weighs in at 10 lbs so I’ve got to cut weight where I can!

View robdew's profile

robdew

84 posts in 2215 days


#7 posted 2095 days ago

>I should probably just take more pictures!

That would be appreciated as well, thanks.

View woodspar's profile

woodspar

710 posts in 2600 days


#8 posted 2095 days ago

Nice work, Rob.

Thanks for the link to the router stuff, Tim.

-- John

View suliman's profile

suliman

409 posts in 2304 days


#9 posted 2095 days ago

whenthe brain start the wood will dance.
THANK YOU SIR

-- Suliman , Syria, jablah ,

View Rob 's profile

Rob

197 posts in 2168 days


#10 posted 2095 days ago

robdew,

Here are some more pics…

In this one you can see how the angle is connected to the fence and the saw top, and as well you can see half the support box that helps keep the top flat.

IMG_1126

And here you can see the support from the router table to the saw base that hopefully will keep my fence rails from bending out of shape!

IMG_1128

And here you can see the plugs that hide the screws that hold the box in place. Also you can see the penciled in circle that will one day be where my router lies beneath somehow.

IMG_1129

View Eduardo Rodriguez's profile

Eduardo Rodriguez

37 posts in 1871 days


#11 posted 1844 days ago

If you have the money, buy the aluminum insert from Rockler. The problem with other materials is to make perfect leveled inserts or zero clearance.

-- Tempus fugit...better work wood!!!

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