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Forum topic by Rayban posted 08-05-2012 09:26 PM 1163 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rayban

3 posts in 1714 days


08-05-2012 09:26 PM

I am currently making cabinets for my den to be installed between a fireplace and wall (built-ins). On the other side of the fireplace, I am making 18” high cabinets that will have a window seat on top. Both sides are wider than a sheet of ply so I’m trying to decide what to make the tops out of. Above the cabinets, there will be a bookcase. Since I don’t want a joint and the cabinet and window seat widths are both wider than a 96 inch sheet of ply, I’m considering using real wood. The cabinets will be painted white and I have plenty of wood available that I can use. Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions? Due to the length, I’m considering gluing planks together and loosely screwing the front edge to allow for movement. Thanks.


6 replies so far

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 2535 days


#1 posted 08-05-2012 11:04 PM

I’m having trouble picturing a “seat” that’s over 48” wide (the width of a sheet of plywood). Can you post some pics or a sketch of your project?

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View 1woodchucker's profile

1woodchucker

15 posts in 1630 days


#2 posted 08-05-2012 11:50 PM

You could check and see if your local cabinet supply places can get you a sheet of 10’ veneer…

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

354 posts in 1942 days


#3 posted 08-05-2012 11:53 PM

Rayban, is there a plywood wholesaler near you? The kind that sells to the trade? The place I go to stocks 4’ by 10’ plywood with birch, maple, white oak, cherry etc, but it can be a bit pricey for a painted unit. They do counter sales on a cash customer pickup basis.
As to the glue up, it would be no different than a tabletop. If you follow all the rules (the ones that I don’t know, lol) it should allow for expansion – contraction movement but did you consider cupping or a even slight radical twist? Today I trued – s4s – a premium SPF 2×4 that I have had for quite awhile stored in a rather warm shed. I could sort of feel the sap wetness of the wood. They will serve their intended purpose of clamping cauls to position, align and clamp an accurate 45 degree – 22.5 lock miter joint, but I have my doubts as to how long they will remain accurate.
Just a few of my thoughts for you to consider, but I’m casual – pre-rookie stage and I often do things more than once because well I’m often not happy with the final result. I try. I goof up stuff too.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4036 posts in 1817 days


#4 posted 08-06-2012 12:13 AM

18” Cabinets wider than 4’? I’m having trouble envisioning that or why you would want cabinets that deep. Got some pictures?

-- Bondo Gaposis

View casual1carpenter's profile

casual1carpenter

354 posts in 1942 days


#5 posted 08-06-2012 12:29 AM

I was sort of figuring that the 18” high cabinets had a wall run length between the fireplace and the corner of the room walls is greater than 96” standard plywood length. still there is no mention of depth of cabinet or of the bookcase configuration. But the advantage to the 3/4” 4’ by 10’ ply is any remainder could be edged with matching wood and used in the bookcase shelving provided you watch the span supports and loading, books can be quite heavy. Again I apologize as my brain is stuck in stain and seal mode not paint grade.

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Rayban

3 posts in 1714 days


#6 posted 08-07-2012 01:20 AM

Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the replies. My cabinets on the left of the fireplace are 34” high, 22” deep and 9 feet wide (run of wall from fireplace to corner). Those units will have the bookcase on top. On the right side, there is a window so I’m building a window seat 18” high, 22” deep and 9 feet wide (run of wall from fireplace to corner). I haven’t seen 10 feet long sheets of ply at my local suppliers before so I wasn’t aware it was available. That’s why I was thinking of laminating solid planks.

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