How to care for Water-based clear lacquer sealant

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Forum topic by louisw posted 08-03-2012 02:25 PM 1927 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5 posts in 2327 days

08-03-2012 02:25 PM

I purchased a table which is described as having “Water-based clear lacquer sealant”. When I placed cold/wet items on it (cold beer) it leaves a mark. I was able to get the manufacturer to replace the table, but can you tell me how to care for the table going forward so this is not a problem?

I asked around a bit and someone told me that lin seed oil can not be added over the lacquer sealant. Is this true?

Any help would be great. Thank you.

7 replies so far

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 2566 days

#1 posted 08-05-2012 08:49 PM

Don’t put anything on the table that’ll leave a ring.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View louisw's profile


5 posts in 2327 days

#2 posted 08-05-2012 08:53 PM

Thanks Clint. I am hoping for some kind of long-term way of protecting it and guarding against accidents. Is there any kind of solution I can add on top of it’s existing sealant?

View NiteWalker's profile


2738 posts in 2782 days

#3 posted 08-05-2012 09:24 PM

Lightly sand the surface with 320, apply a coat of zinsser sealcoat or your own mixed dewaxed shellac, then apply 2-3 coats of poly-ox. It’s a bartop water based finish.You can apply it with a foam brush. It’s great.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile


18394 posts in 3881 days

#4 posted 08-05-2012 09:25 PM

My guess would be shellac, but betetr wait for some one who knows a bit more about what they are talking aoubt ;-)

EDit: My guess would be shellac, but better wait for some one who knows a bit more about what they are talking about ;-)

8 years since since I took myself off Topamax and fired the drs. I’m still getting those scrambles occasionally! Read the haz-mat data that comes with all meds and goggle the side effects.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Echofive's profile


98 posts in 3457 days

#5 posted 07-03-2014 12:36 PM

I made a trophy for my fantasy football league. I had experimented with shellac and loved how easy it was to repair. After our first party I realized my mistake. Shellac can be thinned using alcohol, and what is abundant at a football party? ALCOHOL. There were finger prints embedded in the finish. (no one noticed but me) I got the trophy back and gave it a light buffing with steel wool, then reapplied 2 coats of shellac, and then gave it 2 coats of poly to protect the shellac. This has worked great, and I’ve copied this method on other projects.

I would like to know more about lacquer, though. It seems to have many of the ease of use properties as shellac without the weaknesses. It polishes to a high sheen if desired.

-- Chip, Virginia

View NiteWalker's profile


2738 posts in 2782 days

#6 posted 07-03-2014 06:58 PM

I like shellac only as a sealer or on shop projects and places where it won’t be subjected to any wear.
Not only is it susceptible to alcohol, but also water and sunlight.

Even lacquer I’m not a big fan of because of it’s sensativity to heat and basic household chemicals.

Earlier I mentioned polyox as a good finish, but it’s harder to come across now, so my go-to finish is now general finishes enduro clear poly. Great stuff.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View bigblockyeti's profile


5290 posts in 1925 days

#7 posted 07-03-2014 08:01 PM

Lacquer is usually pretty tough stuff in my experience. I can’t help but wonder exactly what it is that is actually on your table, I know of some water borne lacquer substitute that is sold by Sherwin Williams. It supposed behaves different than solvent based and might not work as well as result.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

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