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Recommended alternative to spraying lacquer for large flat surfaces

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Forum topic by FusionHF posted 725 days ago 1990 views 1 time favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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FusionHF

1 post in 725 days


725 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: finishing large flat surface question modern

Usually I spray clear SW precat lacquer with my HVLP all day long without any issues BUT i have found it virtually impossible to get a uniform finish on large, flat surfaces. (i.e. 4×10 walnut on mdf)

Any suggestions on a good alternative to spraying? Satin/dull rubbed sheen is my desired finished look.


12 replies so far

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1390 posts in 963 days


#1 posted 725 days ago

I usually use SW CAB Acrylic or NC lacquers with a conventional sprayer. Occassionally, I will brush the first coat or two for rapid build and reduced overspray. Fast work and slight thinning keeps things pretty uniform and without brush marks. Follow-on thined sprayed coats, ending with a final heavy misting of almost straight reducer makes for a uniform finish and even overall sheen. No experience with precat, but works well with the mentioned plain solvent lacquers.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1179 days


#2 posted 725 days ago

I’ve read of some guys rolling it on with a paint roller when big panels were involved.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

555 posts in 2144 days


#3 posted 725 days ago

Some precats dry to fast and you have to retard them to slow the drying process down. Ask your vendor if they can do it for you.

The faster it dries the less time it has to do any kind of flow-out.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

View lunn's profile

lunn

206 posts in 910 days


#4 posted 724 days ago

Chech with the auto body paint suppliers. They sell different thinners with different drying speeds. Just thinking !Wonder how the clear coat used on cars whould work on wood?

-- What started as a hobbie is now a full time JOB!

View ArtB's profile

ArtB

20 posts in 753 days


#5 posted 724 days ago

Try Shellac gloss premix, keep a wet edge when spraing. Then wet sand w\ 1200 paper and soapy water, for satin finish.

View Doss's profile

Doss

779 posts in 866 days


#6 posted 724 days ago

Wonder how the clear coat used on cars whould work on wood?lunn

It’s a mixed bag really. Wood that moves a lot is a problem for most automotive clearcoats. Automotive clearcoats move very little (unless they’re designed with flex agents for things like plastic bumpers) and are fairly hard and brittle.

Now, that’s not to say you can’t use them. You just have to think more about the correct application for it… just like any other finish.

Also, automotive clearcoats are generally more expensive than those designed for wood (though some are very similar in composition).

-- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss

View lunn's profile

lunn

206 posts in 910 days


#7 posted 724 days ago

Doss Hadn’t thought about the movement of the wood so rules it out.

-- What started as a hobbie is now a full time JOB!

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Doss

779 posts in 866 days


#8 posted 724 days ago

Not a problem lunn. Like I said, auto clearcoat will work in some applications. Just like any other finish, they require some thought into the material you’re applying them to, purpose, wear, overall look, etc.

They are usually more expensive since they are formulated to work in a more harsh environment than most wood finishes.

-- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1390 posts in 963 days


#9 posted 724 days ago

I have used the old solvent acrylic auto clear coat on furniture with complete success. see the dest and dining table in My Projects for examples. No experience with the current auto clears, but I doubt the any wood moves more than the steel of the hood on a dark painted car under a summer sun, so I wouldn’t hesitate to use the current auto clears on furniture.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View ArtistryinWood's profile

ArtistryinWood

97 posts in 2289 days


#10 posted 724 days ago

Have not tried this technique myself, but i have heard it works very well for large flat surfaces.

Tip – read comments.

http://videos.americanwoodworker.com/video/The-Best-Brush-Ever-A-Paint-Pad;From-the-Editors-of-American-Wo

-- It seem's to me i could live my life, a lot better than i think i am. Andrew, Midland, Ont.

View Joseph Jossem's profile

Joseph Jossem

344 posts in 870 days


#11 posted 724 days ago

I spray 4 coats switching patterns each time of application vertcal horizontal etc.sand in between and last coat real heavy.If that dont work thin it a little might help. gotta make sure your passes overlap each other no misses it willl show up when dry at a angle. hope any of that helps

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

1671 posts in 1711 days


#12 posted 724 days ago

Try a slower thinner. Slower is for higher temperature. These are old standbys in the automotive paint industry. I say old because lacquer has been nearly legislated out of existence in California. You can get it in quantity in certain places, and small quantities most places, because it is nonsense to force water-based repair on one fender of a car painted with lacquer. I have also wet-sanded large areas of wood in order to get the sheen and smoothness I wanted, if I had it too dry or overspray. Also, I do as has been mentioned- I run thinner through the gun to clean it and flow out dry spots at the same time.

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