Found some vintage planes...

OMG, the motherlode.
pic 1) The bullose plane up top is very valuable. $100-$200 unless a Preston, then more.
pic 2) The infilll plane on the left is very valuable $200-$400 depending upon brand. Look for “Norris” or “Spiers” on the cap. The scraper behind it is very desirable, $100 or so if a Stanley. Check for the type of stamp on the iron.
I’d buy every plane in that picture beside the one in the box.
pic 3) That low angle knuckle is very desirable. $50-$100 probably depending upon the brand.
pic 4) lots of desirable users there. The little bullnose 75 seems to fetch a decent price $50, I’d guess. Lots of standard Stanley bench planes. Check on the iron stamping and the number of dates behind the frog. That’s a quick and dirty way to describe the types to planeheads.
pic 5) The Miller’s Falls in the middle is very desirable but I don’t know the price. Close to $100 I’d bet.
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NOW, please PM me about what they want for that infill. If you get it for a song, I can make you some money. al

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

Bertha, thanks for the info! Will keep you posted on what I am able to get my hands on!

Well, jack, jointer, and smoother.
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The infill will be the best smoother around, assuming it’s complete and not jacked up. A lot of guys that know what they’re doing like the Miller’s Falls smoother. I might buy that one anyway b/c I can see them becoming even more desirable/expensive in the near future. There’s at least one Stanley #4 on that bookcase. Pick one with a keyhole shaped (not kidney bean shaped) lever cap, with a lateral adjuster, and three patent dates behind the frog. That’ll give you a good chance of finding a quality type without bringing a dang computer with you.
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The jack. It looks like there might be a couple of #6 foreplanes in there. If you’ve already got a #5, then the #6 might be a real addition to your collection. Use the same dating criteria above.
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The jointer. It’s hard for me to tell what’s on the bottom shelf alongside all those blocks. It like of looks like a #7 but I can’t be sure. The #7 is a pretty standard jointer. You might like a #8 a bit better but the #7 will find plenty of use in your shop. Use the same dating above.
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Don’t forget to check on the price of that infill and the bullnose up top as well:)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I saw that second photo and knew Al would be lusting for the infill.

“I’d buy every plane in that picture beside the one in the box.”
Wait, isn’t that just like the one Don got a while back?

fonzie, a couple other sites that may help if you don’t get overloaded.

The Superior Works has lots of information on Stanley planes.

Don W's website also has a lot of good info. Don is an LJ member and I’m sure will see this thread very shortly.

Edit: Yep, there he is. I think anytime the word plane pops up on LJ, Don’s spidey sense goes off. Actually, it’s more of a Yoda-esque use of the force.

-- "The U.S. Constitution doesn't guarantee happiness, only the pursuit of it. You have to catch up with it yourself." -- Benjamin Franklin

someone anyone push my eyeballs back in my head …. Berthas got em all nailed …

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

Al, may be a little high on the millers falls. I think he’s good everywhere else.
As for the craftsman in the box, IU have one I got for $15. I’ve seen them for sale for about $45, but don’t think they sell for that. They are not bad users though.

If thats a #40 scrub, its worth between $50-$100. Maybe a little more if its in really good shape.
The scraper (maybe a #12) is $100+/-

Typically a rule of thumb, if its got rosewood its worth a little more than hardwood.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Wow guys, thanks for all the info. JayT, I’ll check out those links, I have a lot to learn! Don W, thanks for corroborating Al’s assessment.

So you mention being in good shape. What should I be looking for to determine that? Rust? Any cracked parts? What are the common failure points that make refurbishing no longer worth it?

Don, I was hesitant to attempt to price that MF. I defer to the experts on that one. I forgot about the scrub; it looks like a really nice one. Long blade, tall knob, clean cap; I’m guessing closer to $100 like you say.
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What do you think all that stuff is on the shelves? There’s at least a kidney 4 1/2 in there. Some of those big boys look like #6’s to me. Who makes that low angle block? Is there a #7 in there? There’s all kinds of odds and ends weirdos in there that I don’t have a clue about. Those are the ones I buy on the spot, lol.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

The one in the second photo next to the scrub looks like a Sargent auto-set. I’m thinking those have their fans and can go for decent prices.

-- "The U.S. Constitution doesn't guarantee happiness, only the pursuit of it. You have to catch up with it yourself." -- Benjamin Franklin

Look on the underside of the plane where the blade protrudes from the sole. This is the mouth. You don’t want it chipped. Make sure there aren’t any weld marks or cracks. Check to see if the iron it pitted. A broken wooden part isn’t usually such a big deal (with the exception of the scraper, possibly). These are pretty bulletproof planes.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I think you’re right, JT. I think there’s another sargent block there. The one that looks like stamped steel. I think Don recently rehabbed one of those. The cat is coming out of the bag with sargents.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

In the 2nd photo, the plane in the middle looks like a Sargent auto set plane. I cant really tell but it looks like a #5 size… That one could be worth somewhere in the ball park of 100 dollars… If its smaller size then a #5 then it will be worth more…

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

Crap, I think that bullnose is a Preston.
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I’ll give you $100 cash for that Preston and I’m lowballing you badly. Just putting it out there if you can get it cheaper. If a guy named JusFine contacts you, just ignore him lol;)
http://www.htpaa.org.au/preston.php

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

Yep, that’s an autoset.
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$180 on Fleabay
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Patd-1915-Sargent-708-Metal-Auto-Set-Plane-w-Wood-Handles-Stanley-3-Eqiv-/400264280919

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I don’t mind rust, but it will depreciate the value. Rust can be removed if you don’t mind putting in some time.

Look for breaks and cracks. (thay can hide well sometimes, so look close) Especially around the mouth, but other areas, the frog often breaks around the adjuster. You will see chips around the sides, but if they are small they typically don’t hurt as a user.

Always take the cap off and look underneath. I’ve made the mistake of buying a plane not knowing the blade was broke. Also, you’ll see if the frog is broke that way.

Make sure there is life left in the blade. Replacement blades can be had, but figure that cost in the purchase price if need be.

Cracked broken or missing wood pieces. I don’t mind buying with any of these defects, but purchase price should reflect the repairs needed. Basically if the metal is all there, wood parts can be recreated.

Look at the japanning. Again, it can be replaced if its to bad, but price should be reflected.

Look at part 9 of this for restoration advice
And here is a list of resources
And a place to compare some prices

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)