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Ridgid R4512 Wooden MLCS Router Table Extension Help

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Forum topic by MolokMot posted 08-02-2012 02:31 PM 12514 views 2 times favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MolokMot

122 posts in 1081 days


08-02-2012 02:31 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router tablesaw question r4512 ridgid ts mlcs router table extension

Hey all, I am looking for some help on this topic.

For all of you with the R4512, craftsman 21833, etc.

I bought a router table extension for my table saw and I am not sure the best way to mount it to the table. It seems that the table itself is thicker than the rails on my TS and it also has the supports underneath. (see picture in the link) Router Table

I would really like to mount this on the right side of my blade in the open space. The table seems to be way too big for the left side. Anyone see any issues with it on the right side?

I am newer to wood working, but I have a decent amount of tools, I just need a little direction on how the heck to make this work.

Modifications Needed: The router table has plastic edge banding that makes it a little wider than it should be, so I am going to need to flush trim the sides so it is exactly 27” and will fit between my rails.

Any help would be really appreciated and I will eventually turn this into a blog to explain to other how to do this with pictures and hopefully video if I have the capability soon.

Thank you all in advance.
MolokMot

-- MolokMot, Rocker, Woodworker, Geek


26 replies so far

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2847 posts in 1002 days


#1 posted 08-02-2012 02:56 PM

If it is anything like the bench dog one, mount it on the left. It should have holes were it attaches to both the cast iron center section and the fence rails. They may not match up. In that case you are in for some drilling.

The bench dogs one will only fit to the left of the blade on the R4512 without drilling into cast iron (either the insert or the saw). In addition, you want to attach this to the CAST IRON on your saw, which means whatever side you choose, the steel extension comes out. With that extension out, you should have plenty of room and just a little overhang.

Also, with the steel extension in place, that “open” space on the right side is only 27” x 14 5/8”. I ended up returning the bench dogs set up in favor of a custom made table that will work with my Incra LS-TS/Wonderfence combo (when it finally gets delivered at the end of Aug). Again, without drilling the bench dogs cast iron insert WILL NOT fit to the right of the blade

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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toolie

1774 posts in 1382 days


#2 posted 08-02-2012 03:00 PM

i’m not sure where your problems are. those router tables are 27” wide and are made to fit between the rails of most TSs. there shouldn’t be a need to trim anything. by “right side” i assume you mean when viewing the saw from the operator’s position? assumng the rails on a 4512 slide over the heads of the bolts that hold them to the CI table top, that same channel in the rail(s) can be used for bolts that hold pieces/sections of angle iron to the rails. one leg of the angle iron is against the inside surface of the rails, the “L” portion of the angle iron is then parallel to the ground and would now be avaialble for several types of mounting methods for attaching the router table to the angle iron. kind of like this (look at the 6th post down in this thread):

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=118952

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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MolokMot

122 posts in 1081 days


#3 posted 08-02-2012 03:26 PM

Lumber Joe, perhaps I need to be a little more descriptive.

This is a wooden router table from mlcswoodworking.com. No holes are provided like the cast iron table tops.

The thickness of the router table top, is a little thicker than my cast iron tablesaw top. Under the router table top is a wooden box as you can see from the picture below.

The holes on the cast iron table saw top are threaded bolts with no nuts and no clearance underneath. If you are using the steal table that came with the saw, you screw them in from the under side of the steel wing. Since the wooden router table top is so thick, there is no way to screw anything into the cast iron part of the table saw. So the only solution would be to somehow add some sort of angle brackets.

-- MolokMot, Rocker, Woodworker, Geek

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MolokMot

122 posts in 1081 days


#4 posted 08-02-2012 03:36 PM

Toolie,

Size:
You are correct, the table is supposed to be 27” wide. If you look at the picture posted above, the router table is mounted to a wooden frame. I guess this is for support. That frame is exactly 27” wide, perfect. The only problem is that the table top has plastic edge banding that sticks out about 1/16th on either side making it a little too thick, so that needs to be flush trimmed to match the frame on the bottom.

Mounting: I guess I would have to tap bolt holes into the sides of the table so that they could slip into the slots in the rails. I was just wondering that since this is an MDF top, and I tap the sides so that bolts can be screwed in, would that be enough support or would they strip out of the holes? The other issue with that is I would not be able to tighten the bolts from underneath like is normally done in the steel wings, since they would be tapped directly into the MDF router table top. This option would only work on the front rail. The back rail would have to be tapped in just the right location to be able to bolt it from the outside.

Other Options: I could cut dadoes into the sides of the table in order to mount the “L” brackets you mentioned. I was just really hoping to find someone who has done this and has pictures so they could give me the best advice.

This picture is of the TS before I removed the steel wing last night. I am planning on removing it and mounting the table directly against the cast iron ts top.

-- MolokMot, Rocker, Woodworker, Geek

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2847 posts in 1002 days


#5 posted 08-02-2012 03:43 PM

The link you posted brought up a cast iron extension at first, Sorry! That seems like a waste. Just get a router plate and make one. There are actually instructions in the rigid manual on how to fill the hole, AND they even included the hardware to screw it in.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View MolokMot's profile

MolokMot

122 posts in 1081 days


#6 posted 08-02-2012 04:20 PM

Lumberjoe,

Well, I already bought the table and I don’t think I can take it back since it bought it out of the box two months ago. Plus it comes with a sweet fence and everything. So I would really like to make this work. Someone out there has to have done this already since this is alot like most of the wooden router tables out there.

I am whipping up a quick sketch-up model that I will post. Maybe someone will have some ideas from that.

Thanks for the help though!

-- MolokMot, Rocker, Woodworker, Geek

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lumberjoe

2847 posts in 1002 days


#7 posted 08-02-2012 04:27 PM

One tip I can give you that may work (which I will be doing) is to flip that bar upside down. You will have about a half inch of clearance between that bar and the top of the table. You can cut a dado for the table to fit over it. Leave the steel extension so you have the 3 attachment points. You can then drill a few holes in the back of the fence for some more attachment points, and put some legs on the extension.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View James 's profile

James

138 posts in 1680 days


#8 posted 08-02-2012 05:25 PM

lumberjoe,
I take it you have the R4512 with the benchdog CI router insert. How do you like that setup? Did you stick with the stock fence? I am thinking about getting the R4512, with Benchdog CI insert but replacing the stock fence with a Delta T2 fence. Also what router are you using?

James

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lumberjoe

2847 posts in 1002 days


#9 posted 08-02-2012 05:35 PM

No, I bought it but decided to go in a different direction. To answer your questions:

Stock fence? It sucks IMO. I ordered the Incra LS-TS 32. I was thinking of the T2, but you have to drill holes. Also that incra fence is expensive, but absolutely amazing and would be an upgrade on any table saw I ever purchased

Router: I have several, but in the table is a Porter Cable 7518

The incra LS-TS system can be combined with the incra wonderfence for router tables (also AMAZING! Don’t look it up if you don’t want to spend 550$ on a fence. If you watch some videos, you’ll really want one)

This is why I am not using the benchdogs insert. Without drilling and tapping cast iron, the benchdogs has to go on the left side. I want most of my rip capacity on the right side, so when I mount the LS-TS, it won’t reach as far as I need it to on the left for the router.

If you go with the T2 setup, you are going to have to drill some holes in it. It’s not a huge deal and if you are at all mechanical, you can figure it out. Just don’t expect out-of-the-box fit and detailed instructions. I would also recommend that benchdogs insert if you keep the stock fence or do something like the T2. It’s nice, adds some cast iron to your saw, and easy to install.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

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MolokMot

122 posts in 1081 days


#10 posted 08-02-2012 06:01 PM

Hey all,

Here is the sketchup model with the tablesaw, stock fence and I added the MLCS Router Table Extension. This might give you a better idea of what I am up against.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=7800a4186a045863cb4ec03bedc36310&prevstart=0

Regards,
MolokMot

-- MolokMot, Rocker, Woodworker, Geek

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 1040 days


#11 posted 08-02-2012 06:08 PM

The stock fence isn’t the best, but it’s not bad once you get it set up—mine locks down square every time, and the t-slots in the fence are handy for attaching auxiliary fences, jigs, etc. Maybe I got lucky with mine.

Anyway, to the OP—the MLCS table looks to be about 1.5” thick. If so, you want to use your router and hog out some room for the bolts to attach to the front and rear rails, as well as the side of the steel wing. Here’s a not very good picture (sorry) of how I mounted my shop-made table to the R4512:

Then your table will end up sitting flush with the TS table:

You should be able to loosen all of the front and rear rail bolts, and slide the rails down to accommodate the size of the router table. You might also try removing the steel bar at the end, and seeing if the router table will fit in there without it. Once you tighten the rail bolts, it might be enough to allow the fence to move freely along the rails. Just a thought before you start trimming your new table.

Good luck!

-- John, BC, Canada

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MolokMot

122 posts in 1081 days


#12 posted 08-02-2012 06:14 PM

nwbusa,

Thank you for the pictures! I really appreciate it.

The table has a 1 3/8” thick top as well as a frame underneither that is an additional 1 1/8th

I am wondering if the top will be strong enough If I rout and drill into it to really hold the bolts in as I believe it is mostly MDF.

Can you take a picture from under your table? I would love to see how those bolts are attached. I am assuming that you drilled holes in through the side and then routed from the bottom leaving enough side for the bolt to hold onto.

Here are some pictures from the sketchup model (link posted above)

-- MolokMot, Rocker, Woodworker, Geek

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nwbusa

1017 posts in 1040 days


#13 posted 08-02-2012 06:15 PM

Sure, I’ll go snap a few pics, one sec.

-- John, BC, Canada

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nwbusa

1017 posts in 1040 days


#14 posted 08-02-2012 06:23 PM

MolokMot, you got it right, that’s exactly how I did it. But, I just realized that this might not work for you, as I have a hardwood border around my table. If you left enough of the MDF material there (i.e. use long enough bolts) then it might be strong enough.

Here’s how I did mine: (by the way—this is the sloppiest routering I’ve done lol… this was the first time using a router in about 20 years) :)

My table is a layer of 3/4” melamine laminated to a layer of 3/4” MDF, edged with 3/4” oak.

-- John, BC, Canada

View nwbusa's profile

nwbusa

1017 posts in 1040 days


#15 posted 08-02-2012 06:25 PM

In looking at your Sketchup pics, I am thinking the frame underneath is what would be used to attach to your TS—would that leave the router table flush with the TS surface?

-- John, BC, Canada

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