Craftsman 21400 Bandsaw, which blade?

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Forum topic by BerBer5985 posted 08-01-2012 03:29 PM 3983 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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445 posts in 2385 days

08-01-2012 03:29 PM

We bought this saw for my dad about 5 years ago it’s still in the box, so he gave it to me. I already have a 14” Grizzly bandsaw that has a 3/4” wood slicer blade on it that I use for longer rip cuts and resawing when needed. I figured having this 2nd saw setup, it would be nice to have a more general purpose blade in there to cut some curves, make some bandsaw boxes, and even smaller rip cuts here and there. I heard timberwolf blades were the ones to buy, but what size would suit as a good general purpose blade. Pretty much the only blade I’ve used in the grizzly is the wood slicer. I hate changing the blade to do other things, so I just leave that one on there. Any advice would be great. I haven’t set the saw up yet, but I plan to do it this weekend and I wanted to go ahead and order a new blade for it because I heard the stock one was crap.

-- Greg, Owner, Quality Carpet One,

8 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


7980 posts in 3340 days

#1 posted 08-01-2012 03:37 PM

I’ve been happy with the Timberwolf blades on mine. One of the aspects I like about dealing with Suffolk Machinery is that they’ll ask about your saw and cutting habits, then will make a suggestion based on that. When I ordered a few years ago they had a special called “443”....4 blades for the price of 3.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4902 posts in 3925 days

#2 posted 08-01-2012 03:38 PM

I’m surprised that ya can get good results with a 3/4” blade. I find that they won’t tension well on a 14” saw.
Mt general go-to blade on my 14” is a 3/8” 4tpi. For more “curvy” work, I use a 1/4” 6 tpi blade.
Just my set up.
For rip and resaw, I use a 1/2” 3tpi.


View BerBer5985's profile


445 posts in 2385 days

#3 posted 08-01-2012 03:47 PM

I literally have the tension all the way up. I’m planning on potentially redoing my shop in the next year or so and the bandsaw is one thing I’d like to upgrade. Since I like working with hand tools, I find a bandsaw works well for general dimensioning of stop on long rip cuts and what not. The grizzly I picked up used and it works ok, but it’s not the greatest bandsaw. I believe I have the 3/4”, maybe it’s a 1/2” now that I think about it. I’m pretty sure it was the wood slicer blade though.

-- Greg, Owner, Quality Carpet One,

View AHuxley's profile


652 posts in 3286 days

#4 posted 08-01-2012 04:08 PM

On the issue of a 3/4” woodslicer on a 14” cast saw it is indeed pushing it. A better solution ia a 5/8” .016” blade. The same Atlanta Sharptech stock the Highland blades are welded from is available from Iturra as the Bladerunner and Spectrum Supply as the Kerfmaster for significantly less than Highland charges and Spectrum has more sizes and gauges like the 5/8” .016” which is an excellent blade for a 14” cast saw.

For the little Craftsman I suggest a carbon Lenox or Starrett 1/4” 6TPI blade. I am NOT a fan of “Swedish” high silicon steel blades, as they are poor values. While initially sharper they dull much quicker than a standard carbon blade and cost as much or more than a high quality carbon blade.

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445 posts in 2385 days

#5 posted 08-01-2012 04:57 PM

The woodslicer does seem to work fine with a fairly clean edge when done. Would that 5/8” .016” blade work ok for resawing as well? Also, which Lennox blade from Spectrum supply because I have to place a minimum $25 order so i might as well order a couple blades. I heard the craftsman seemed to like 4 tpi better because it’s only 3/4hp, but would 6 tpi work? I’m trying to have more a resawing type setup on the 14” bandsaw and more of a general purpose on the smaller bandsaw for cutting light curves, smaller type work.

-- Greg, Owner, Quality Carpet One,

View Wildwood's profile


2298 posts in 2099 days

#6 posted 08-01-2012 05:04 PM

Had to go find out that is a 10” bandsaw with only 1/3 hp motor. Might be great at cutting curves in thin stock but would not try making bandsaw boxes with it. Blade selection easy ¼” or 3/8” wide blades about most this saw can handle. Think ¼” wide hook or skip tooth blade with 6 TPI good fit for this saw. Would stay with plain old carbon steel flex back blades for that bandsaw.

Would tune up that Grizzly for cutting bandsaw boxes.

-- Bill

View AHuxley's profile


652 posts in 3286 days

#7 posted 08-01-2012 05:22 PM

@BerBer the Woodslicer et al finish is a result of the lack of set. The best finish you will get short of a carbide blade. The .016” blade is fine for resawing and has about the same beam strength as the 1/2” thicker band. For the small saw get flex back Lenox blades if you are interested in a 1/4” blade for the 14” you could go up to a bi-metal blade like the Diemaster 2 but it needs too much tension for the 10” saw. A 6tpi 1/4” blade will be fine going up to a 4tpi will limit your ability to cut stock under 3/4”.

If you plan to just go with one blade on each the 1/2” or 5/8” Woodslicer-eque blade for the 14” and a 6tpi 1/4” for the 10” saw is the best bet. Be aware the Woodslicer type blades are NOT for cutting curves, even long flowing ones since the blade has no set, they are only for cutting in a straight line.

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2138 days

#8 posted 08-01-2012 06:21 PM

There are good quality carbon blades from Lasts much longer than other brands. Their blades are affordable too!

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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