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Joining together 2 pieces of 3/8" teak

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Forum topic by will delaney posted 727 days ago 1571 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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will delaney

320 posts in 1238 days


727 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: glueing joining together joining

I resawed a piece of Teak and would like to bookmark it for a door. When trying to glue with Gorilla Glue it didn’t make a good bond. Does any LJs have a way to get a strong joint on 3/8 wood. Thanks Will


12 replies so far

View jbschutz's profile

jbschutz

384 posts in 1293 days


#1 posted 727 days ago

Will,
I think Gorilla glue has its place, but I would go with Titebond III…. and an eighth inch spline running the length of the joint. Draw it up tight and leave it for 24 hours.
Hope it works for you, John

-- jbschutz www.johnschutz.com

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

10423 posts in 1608 days


#2 posted 727 days ago

You may want to clean the edges prior to glue up with acetone. The oils in the wood make it tough to glue. Ive had to employ that method when using cypress.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1390 posts in 963 days


#3 posted 727 days ago

I agree with any of the Titebonds. Make sure the dry fit joint is perfect without clamping. Then a spare bead of glue without over clamping. Keep it flat during the cure.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View will delaney's profile

will delaney

320 posts in 1238 days


#4 posted 727 days ago

You’s guys are great! No down time ask a question and you get an answer in real time. John the spline should do the trick. I do have some Titebond and will clean the joint give it another try. Thanks all. Will

View degoose's profile

degoose

6976 posts in 1957 days


#5 posted 727 days ago

All of the above… and this is a great place to have questions answered in real time… there is someone around the world awake…

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ lazylarrywoodworks.com.au For lovers of all things timber...

View Cole Tallerman's profile

Cole Tallerman

389 posts in 787 days


#6 posted 727 days ago

Either a spline or use a biscuit jointer with some titebond.

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1653 days


#7 posted 727 days ago

Be careful with the spline. Sometimes they swell and keep the joint from fitting. If you can, use leftover teak for the spline. Another thing to consider; as edge-grain to edge-grain makes a very strong joint without any help (glues are stronger than the wood or they’re useless), just run your bead and clamp. Use c clamps on the ends to force them to line up, a mallet in the centeer and tighten the clamps in steps. Don’t over tighten.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2163 posts in 1452 days


#8 posted 727 days ago

No one mentioned lacquer thinner or naphtha to get rid of the oils. And I agree; no splines, no biscuits.

Boatbuilders regularly use epoxy on teak with great success. They clean as well, and definitely underclamp.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View handi's profile

handi

118 posts in 3042 days


#9 posted 726 days ago

Wiping the edges with acetone is critical. The teak has oil in it that will ruin even an epoxy bond.

I like to use “V” bit sets for edge gluing thin panels. The V gives more glue surface and keeps the joint aligned so there is far less need for flattening afterwards.

You can see the process in a video on my website. Scroll down the “Skill Building” page, it is About the 5th one from the top, Aligning Thin Edges for Glue Ups.

Ralph

-- www.consultingwoodworker.com

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2094 posts in 790 days


#10 posted 726 days ago

The Gorilla glue should have worked but maybe you didn’t dampen the surfaces first ? I would have thought Titebond was not the best option given the naturally high oil content of teak. Also, clamping boards only 3/8” thick requires some care as they could easily flex and compromise the glue joint. You should use some scrap wood strapping to prevent this.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View usnret's profile

usnret

184 posts in 1110 days


#11 posted 726 days ago

I used Titebond III on teak for edge gluing and gluing end grain and it has held up for 8 months now. Before you glue the edges wipe them down with denatuted alcahol or mineral spirits to remove any natural oils from the wood.

-- Chief Petty Officer USN(RET) 1991-2011

View will delaney's profile

will delaney

320 posts in 1238 days


#12 posted 726 days ago

There definitely is not one way to do this. It seem like everyone has had successes with different technique. There seem to be one common thread, to clean the joints of the natural oils. I did use Titebond and hopefully it will hold. If I were to do it again I would of made two panels. Time to research rail and stile bit sets. Thanks for the info. I will post the project when done. Will

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