No-Lock Spindle Washer

I use these- http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2021098/24738/antilock-lathe-spindle-washer-1.aspx. My Delta lathe does not have a the step on the shaft behind the threads, either. I haven’t noticed this problem but then again, I rarely turn pens.
I just checked and mine seems to fit about like yours does.
I guess I’m not much help.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

I also made my own from some black plastic I had laying around. Consistant thickness (flatness)and proper I.D. are very important.
MIKE

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Well, this is better but still a bit off.
I did notice that on the first cut the blade was just a bit off from 90 degrees so that may be what is causing some, or all, of this. I also noted that when drilling the blank without the washer there is no vibration like before. That tells me the chuck is not wobbling on the spindle anymore. Measuring both ends of the drilled blanks shows it is real close to dead center.
I corrected the blade and am doing another test…just to see if I can get them all even.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

I cut one out of a plastic milk jug. Works, fits great and the price was right.

-- Karen - a little bit of stupid goes a long way

Try this washer. http://www.mcmaster.com/#cadinlnord/98370a038/=inv1dj You want solid contact between the spindle and chuck. You might also try a washer 15/16” ID and file the Id until it fits the spindle for a closer fit.

Thanks for the link. I’ll consider that.
However, the idea behind the plastic washer is to help eliminate the chuck getting wedged too tight.
I can center this one if I take the time to position it in the center when I advance the chuck, but it is just something else to remember to do. The design of the shaft does not allow it to center itself.
I also considered gluing it onto the shaft since it would always be used when using the threaded spindle and would be out of the way when using the taper.
BTW, that was the issue with the rings not being even. By also fine tuning the blade angle I got the rings real close to all even from the end. Good enough for me anyway.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

Reading this thread brings two questions to mind…

1) Is there any reason why you wouldn’t want to use an automotive anti-seize compound on the threads? Anti-seize shouldn’t interfere with any finishes if it’s contained to the spindle and any excess is cleaned off.

2) Or, if anti-seize is too messy, what about teflon plumbers tape? It’s wicked thin (technical term) and teflon, even with close tolerance threads a single wrap shoud still fit and the teflon might keep things from sticking.

There might be great reasons why these two aren’t used, but I’ve only had a lathe for a week now, so I’m still trying to figure things out.

-- A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way. - Mark Twain

The issue isn’t with the threads but with the metal to metal connection between the base of the headstock spindle and the base of the chuck.

-- Website is finally up and running....www.woodandwrite.com

The chuck should not be run up tight to the spindle under power. All that is needed is to hand tighten it, Check the surface of the chuck to be sure there is not any burrs that would cause it to get too tight on the spindle. I think McMaster-Carr has teflon and other plastic washers that size. Would a hose washer be the right size?