Old Craftsman Table Saw 113 series within specs?

The T2 does seem to have a little bow from top to bottom. I can’t tell you how good my blade adjustment is, its just good enough ;) Though you have a little under 1/64 error and that can add up.

Yea, I think I’m going to loosen all the trunion bolts and try again from scratch. I would like it to be within .005”.

Also, thinking about getting the Contractor pals from inline. Seems like they would allow me to dial in the adjustment and hold it while tightening down the bolts.

-Oliver

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As long as you CAN correct it by hand then the PALS are nice if the saw gets banged around and needs realignment.

You just need to be sure before dumping the money that you run through all the steps this includes looking at the bars that connect the motor. The PALS allows you to fine tune the last .01” but it doesn’t get you close. If the bars are out of wack between the motor and the arbor this scews the blade.

I have a PDF I goto from Delta someplace for aligning the Tie-Bars to Parallel, I don’t know much about the 113 saws but I’m assuming they have two tie bars. Let me know if you want me to send it to you.

WOW, I can not imagine trying to get something that close only to have the wood move more then that. No offense meant, but you are not setting up a metal shop where it needs that tight of measurements.

Theres plenty of woodworkers out that that can hold pretty close to .01 through an entire project. The problem with having the saw in less than .01 condition is that errors compound. A small error on the jointer puts the board out of wack x the table saw adds y and pretty soon your 1/32 off which leaves an ugly gap that needs filling.

I’m not saying get so anal that you don’t have time to cut wood, but do take a day to get your tools into good alignment. A decent measuring setup and some steady hands will get it done in little time.

Thanks for your comments guys, I’m going to try to redo the trunnion adjustment again and see if I can hit the .005” mark.

I do have some metal working classes, so maybe I am over killing the set-up.

Marcb, thanks for the tip, I’m going to give it one more shot and then start looking at those bars.

-Oliver

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The main part of the bar check is to just take something flat and lay it across the 2 bars and see if it rocks. If it does loosen the lock nuts and wiggle the motor bracket to align everything, tighten, recheck, etc.

Blade run out seems acceptable, or about the same as the 2 blades that I have on hand. Most will recommend getting the blade/miter slot under .005”. I would try getting the fence closer. Mine isn’t perfectly flat, but does go predominantly in one direction. I shoot for about .005” relief at the back end to avoid kickback.

On my saw I had to pry and clamp the trunion to get the blade aligned, so in other words don’t be afraid to muscle it into position. On old saws this may be more normal than you might think.

-- Doug, woodworking in Alabama

I had to realign my saw last night, not sure what happened but that explains the burn issues I’ve been having the last couple weeks. Checked it and had daylight on the back end of the saw.

I did manage to get it to about .005 then had to redo the fence. Now I have to cut new inserts.