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tung oil

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Forum topic by Steelpapa posted 737 days ago 1721 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Steelpapa

27 posts in 1650 days


737 days ago

I put Old Masters Tung oil on a stripped mahogany dresser. It called for two coats but it seems to be still too dry. The directions said not to use more than two coats. I used steel wool on it between coats. Is there a final finish or do I just use 0000 steel wool and leave it alone

-- Ron,Texas,http://rjnwood99@clearwire.net


9 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1654 posts in 1097 days


#1 posted 736 days ago

If this is Tung Oil, what you have is what you should have. You could top coat it if you want with something, but the oil will have to somewhat cure out. If this is the Tung Oil Varnish what you started with was mostly MS, and another coat or 2 may not be hurt. Most Danish oils (that’s what this is) do not do well with multiple coats, they can get gummy. Both finishes are considered “in the wood” type, thin coatings that offer little protection but you can feel the grain.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2094 posts in 792 days


#2 posted 736 days ago

My understanding of pure tung oil (from Lee Valley’s information sheet that comes with it) is that many more than 2 coats are typically required for the finish to build. Your “tung oil” must be tung oil and something else.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View Richard's profile

Richard

400 posts in 1295 days


#3 posted 736 days ago

If this is what you are using http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-woodcare-tungoil-varnish.htm it is 50% Mineral Spirits. I looked at the MSDS for the product and “Tung Oil” is not even listed as an ingredient.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View Steelpapa's profile

Steelpapa

27 posts in 1650 days


#4 posted 736 days ago

I used 100% Pure Tung Oil. Richard same colored container but the number is 90004. In contains nothing else but says I can thin it with mineral spirits. Thanks for the responses..and I think I will follow ya’lls advice and let it cure out

-- Ron,Texas,http://rjnwood99@clearwire.net

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dnick

892 posts in 986 days


#5 posted 736 days ago

I’ve been using Formby’s tung oil & been putting 4 or 5 coats on every project, each coat adds to the depth & sheen. Using 600 grit sandpaper to rub in the next to last coat, wipe on the last.

-- dnick, North Hollywood, Ca.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

959 posts in 738 days


#6 posted 735 days ago

Pure Tung oil needs 24 to 48 hours between coats. For woods with very open pores, allow an extra 24 hours drying time.
Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and molding.
Surfaces that receive moderate use or handling will need about six coats.
Heavily used surfaces, such as tabletops, should be given ten or more coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coat a couple of times a year.

Tung oil can be applied pure (without additives) if a non-toxic finish is required. If this is not necessary, you can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with mineral spirits, turpentine, or naphtha by 50%., Instructions tell you Pure Tung Oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it.

Cutting Tung oil with solvent/thinner essentially making a sealer coat that dries faster than pure oil. When instructions talk about V.O.C’s from thinner, you should read MSDS for that product. One part oil to one part Solvent/Thinner is a 50-50 mix. Cutting Tung oil as describes will increase number of coats to protect your product.
Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheesecloth, a lint free cloth or old nylon stockings. This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface. Renewal applications over couple to several years impart a beautiful patina to wood.

Pure Tung Oil’s matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized Tung oil or a formulated Tung oil based product.

-- Bill

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Wildwood

959 posts in 738 days


#7 posted 735 days ago

Pure Tung Oil, has only one ingredient in it and should say or list 100% Tung Oil.

You can buy products with Tung Oil in the name but contains no Tung or any other oil as a ingredient. Some products use cheaper oils. So check labels for ingredients or MSDS for the product.

Want to know if buying Oil Varnish or Wiping Varnish check ingredients for clues.

Oil Varnish will have a matt finish, not much protection and will contain over 50% to 75% solvent/thinner. Drying Oil or resin in product less than 50%

Wiping Varnish slight more sheen luster and tad more protection should contain more than 50% or higher resin, and oil content. Solvent/thinner and metallic driers never more than 50%.

Manufacturer do not always list all ingredients on labels and MSDS.

Formby’s Tung Oil finish is a wiping varnish product as well as General Finishes Arm-R-Seal.

-- Bill

View Steelpapa's profile

Steelpapa

27 posts in 1650 days


#8 posted 735 days ago

The ingredients listing said 100% tung oil nothing else. Thank you for your advice because i have waited 36 hours and i will put on another coat. I am going to check on the polymerized Tug oil.

-- Ron,Texas,http://rjnwood99@clearwire.net

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

959 posts in 738 days


#9 posted 734 days ago

Need some polymerized Tung oil check what have to say and prices at:

http://www.sutherlandandwell.com

A nice read:

http://www.zoogmatic.com/shop/workbench/finishing.htm

Even Sutherland & Wells talk about renewing their products over time.

Many folk switch to wiping varnish product like Formby’s Tung Oil Finish, Water Lox, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal due to time & expense.

-- Bill

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