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Forum topic by Arthouse posted 07-17-2012 09:54 PM 1255 views 2 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Arthouse

228 posts in 1340 days


07-17-2012 09:54 PM

I keep having trouble with titebond glue. I used it on a glue up on top of a table and the glue joints seem to squeeze the glue out after I ve finished it with heavy laquer finish. It seem to be a creeper glue always coming out of the glue joints upsetting the final smoothness of the finish . How do I solve this from keep coming thru the joints if I have to refinish the top.

-- "The hand is the cutting edge of the mind but the wind and sun are the healing factors of the heart


13 replies so far

View RiverWood's profile

RiverWood

115 posts in 1449 days


#1 posted 07-17-2012 10:07 PM

They have absolutely THE best customer service. Give them a call, I am sure they help you out.

-- My favorite projects were firewood bound

View DS's profile

DS

2131 posts in 1109 days


#2 posted 07-17-2012 10:11 PM

You dont’ say which Titebond glue you are using. ( I, II, or III—all different formulations)

For me, I use Titebond II nearly on everything. I’ve only ever had issues with the finish if I rushed the curing time of the glue.

If you finish too quickly after glue up you can experience shrinking of the glue line and outgassing. both of which make the glue line pronounced in the finish.

Once the glue is fully cured, it doesn’t seem to creep for me.

-- "Hard work is not defined by the difficulty of the task as much as a person's desire to perform it.", DS251

View Ripthorn's profile

Ripthorn

770 posts in 1674 days


#3 posted 07-17-2012 10:14 PM

The more water resistant/proof the glue, the more likely it is to creep, in general.

-- Brian T. - Exact science is not an exact science

View SnowyRiver's profile

SnowyRiver

51450 posts in 2169 days


#4 posted 07-17-2012 11:54 PM

I generally use Titebond II and III. I havent had any problems with it creeping out of the joints after it is dry.
I usually let the piece dry overnight before sanding and finishing.

-- Wayne - Plymouth MN

View tenontim's profile

tenontim

2131 posts in 2433 days


#5 posted 07-18-2012 12:23 AM

I’ve had this problem when using the type II glues from other brands. I always use Titebond III for table tops, and haven’t had any problem. Gorilla glue’s white, type II glue is the worst for this problem.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5090 posts in 1487 days


#6 posted 07-18-2012 12:24 AM

I’ve had it creep out after finish, just enough so you could feel it and I’ve had it recede into veneer gluelines making them visible in a gloss surface. Hard drying glues like urea formaldehyde or hide glue don’t do it. One of the many reasons I’ve switched to almost exclusively hide glue.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

393 posts in 924 days


#7 posted 07-18-2012 12:31 AM

+1 on the hide glue. Titebond sells it ready to use in a plastic squeeze bottle.

-- Jerry

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2842 posts in 937 days


#8 posted 07-18-2012 12:45 AM

I’ve been very tempted to try the titebond hide glues. I have good luck with titebond I and II. For a PVA 2 glue, I actually prefer elmers new formula. It (to me anyway) has a longer open time and an amazing initial tack. It’s like a liquid nails initial tack.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

5090 posts in 1487 days


#9 posted 07-18-2012 12:54 AM

Liquid hide glues have many of the advantages of hot hide glue but you can’t do fast rubbed joints or hammer veneering with them. They cure only by drying. Hot glue gets an initial tack from cooling and then achieves it’s full strength by drying.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11239 posts in 1379 days


#10 posted 07-18-2012 03:01 AM

Art, I have had the same thing happen with TB3 several times and it seems worse with Jatoba. I just thought that I didn’t wait long enough before finishing. I’m gonna try the Titebond Hide glue next time I’m at Woodcraft (the only place in Tulsa that sells it). Unless Paul tells me it is not a good hide glue as I completely trust his judgement in these matters.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Arthouse's profile

Arthouse

228 posts in 1340 days


#11 posted 07-18-2012 04:04 AM

Thank everyone for the lesson in glue use the question is how do you stop it from happening if I finish it again.

-- "The hand is the cutting edge of the mind but the wind and sun are the healing factors of the heart

View newwoodbutcher's profile

newwoodbutcher

379 posts in 1539 days


#12 posted 07-18-2012 05:18 AM

Unless you have a heck of a lot of glue in that joint it should be dry by now. Once dry it won’t come out of your joint again

-- Ken

View Tedster's profile

Tedster

2271 posts in 900 days


#13 posted 07-18-2012 05:41 AM

This is a very informative thread. I use TBII almost exclusively and have had the problem Arthouse describes. The piece isn’t anything real special so I never gave it much though, just assumed it was wood movement causing the joint to feel bumpy. It never crossed my mind it might be the glue oozing out. The finish is straight shellac, so I might sand and refinish that one area that’s doing it, to see if it comes back again.

-- I support the 28th Amendment. http://www.wolf-pac.com/28th

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