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Forum topic by Alexandre posted 778 days ago 1528 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


778 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw rough cut burning help

Hey guys, Today, I bought a brand new Ridgid BS1002 Bandsaw at homedepot for $209.
Now remember, this is canada, and Since i live in Guelph, There is only one HD in the WHOLE of Guelph.
Now, it was clearance, so it was $209.
Thats a pretty good price compared to $399.
When I set it up, and did the first few cuts, To be honest, I’ve never used a band saw before.
When i crosscut stuff, The cuts were ROUGH and burning.
The same happens when i rip stuff.
Also, It looked like someone used a handsaw and was doing a rough cut with a blunt blade.
It is still the OEM blade, so Should I get a better blade?
How am I to get better cuts?
All bandsaw suggestions and questions here! Please Help!
Will be greatly appreciated.

-- My terrible signature...


17 replies so far

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10760 posts in 1326 days


#1 posted 778 days ago

Better blades will definately improve your cut quality. I use Timberwolf blades and like them but there are several good brands out there. I would also recommend that you check your set up carefully as setting the guide/thrust bearings is very important as is tensioning your blade properly. Also remember that there is a trade off between cutting speed and smoothness of cut. Be sure to check that your blade is perpendicular to your table. I bought Mark Dujinski’s bandsaw book and studied it while waiting for my bandsaw to arrive. Having never used a bandsaw before, I found this book to be a very worthwhile investment. Hope this helps.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


#2 posted 778 days ago

How are Lenox bandsaw blades?

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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


#3 posted 778 days ago

^^^^^?

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Tennessee

1447 posts in 1151 days


#4 posted 778 days ago

I’ve used Lenox, they are OK. I have one on my Porter Cable right now. Timberwolf is better, and there are others that are better.
As far as setup, gfadvm makes a good point, but look here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

This video will tell the average bandsaw user just about everything you need to know to get outstanding results from your bandsaw. Quicker and cheaper than a book, it helped me a lot.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

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patron

13020 posts in 1977 days


#5 posted 778 days ago

not to offend alexander

it has come up before
and i have done it myself

make sure the teeth are facing down towards the table
(the burning can be indicative of that if pointing up)
just flip them inside out if they are going the wrong way

easy to do when unwinding the coil

saw set-up is important as others have stated

enjoy

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


#6 posted 778 days ago

Okay, thanks David and thanks Paul, Anyone have any experience of a carbide tipped bandsaw blade?
I now know how annoying it is to change a bandsaw blade..

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View MJCD's profile

MJCD

452 posts in 1008 days


#7 posted 778 days ago

Alexandre:

Some sage advice already provided. Regarding the Carbide-tipped blades, no need to go here unless you’re working very hard woods (see Janka Hardness Scale. starting with Teak probably) AND running very high board foot counts. Bandsaws blades are thinner and the feed rate (feet/sec) is usually much slower than the Table Saw equivalents. I may buy a carbide blade to process Jatoba (rated twice harder than Teak); but I’ve run both Cherry and Hard Maple through my normal bi-metal blades.

The key to the bandsaw is setup; and I’ll emphasize setup – get the blade guides and tension properly set; the wheels in the same plane (they should be stacked perfectly, and probably need initial alignment). Regarding cutting, the blade does the cutting, with very little push from you (unlike the TS) – you can not muscle-through a cut the way you can with at TS. So, realize that BS cutting is an acquired art.
MJCD

-- Lead By Example; Make a Difference

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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


#8 posted 778 days ago

Okay, Thanks Guys, anyone have ball bearing guides?

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View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3426 posts in 2597 days


#9 posted 778 days ago

Alexandre, the three blade sizes I use on my 14” BS are:
1/4” 6 TPI (tooth per inch) for tighter curves
3/8” 4 TPI for general cutting
1/2’ 3 TPI for resawing

The 14” saw is probably the most popular general use BS, but won’t often handle blades wider the 1/2”.
I used Cool Blocks instead of bearings for years on an 11” BS with good results. They are cheaper than a bearing set up. The new Grizzly I have has the ball bearing guides and I like them, but if it had not come equipped that way, I’d have opted for the Cool Blocks.

The proper set up is a must for good results. Tension, alignment, tracking ,etc. take some time, so don’t expect the Ridgid come come out of the box dead on.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


#10 posted 778 days ago

Yeah.. Its tracking alright, I think its the tension and the blade, also my feeding speed.
Whats the best FPM for a bandsaw
FPM= feetperminute.

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View MJCD's profile

MJCD

452 posts in 1008 days


#11 posted 778 days ago

Alexandre:

The best FPM is what the saw / saw blade allows; that is, you feed to get the next bit of wood into the blade – pushing any harder will cause the blade to deflect and ruin the cut. Regarding bearings, much of this depends on the type of blade, and how hard you’re pushing it – and skill level. The higher your skill level – and most of the responders here are probably ‘advanced’, the more you can work with virtually any tool and get good results – it’s humbling to see what some of these guys & girls can do with a simple block plane.

With this, I recommend you tune the machine to the best of your ability, get some pine, draw a circle on it, and try to cut along the line – practice is the only road I know.
MJCD

-- Lead By Example; Make a Difference

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Alexandre

1417 posts in 827 days


#12 posted 778 days ago

Okay, thanks.

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View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

208 posts in 1958 days


#13 posted 778 days ago

Lenox or Starrett blades are my go to for standard carbon blades. The high silicon steel Timberwolf blades are sharper initially but dull much quicker.

I would not even consider a carbide tipped blade on that saw as it can not apply the proper tension to anything but a very narrow carbide tipped blade without damaging the tracking arm assembly.

The best SPFM rates for a woodcutting bandsaw are beyond the ability of a 14” saw as well due to the small wheels. The SPFM for that saw is probably somwhere between 3,000 and 3,500 SPFM and not point to change it.

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cutworm

1064 posts in 1430 days


#14 posted 777 days ago

I have a Ridgid Bandsaw and Carter blades have done a good job for me. They have about anything you need to trick-out your saw.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

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ssull4167

31 posts in 1051 days


#15 posted 777 days ago

Make sure the blade is in the right direction and properly tensioned. Also go to youtube and type in how to maintain bandsaw blades. There they show you how to run a file along the side of the blade and back. If you try these and it doesnt work than you might need a new blade.

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