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Forum topic by LittlePaw posted 753 days ago 1152 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LittlePaw

1571 posts in 1684 days


753 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: jointer blade screws screws set screws flathead screws question planer plane blade

I bought a used Sears Craftsman Jointer/Planer #113.206931. the flat-head machine set screws that are supposed to be screwed all the way in BEFORE the jointer blades were installed wrong. Instead they were forced in from the top AFTER the blades were set in. So these screws got bent or warped in the process. Now that I removed them – with great difficulty, I might add – I cannot get them back in because they are bent. I contacted Sears parts, but after spending at least half an hour on live chat with a “specialist”, he wanted to charge me $3.29 PER SCREW ! ! ! ! ! Does anyone know where I can buy six of these screws without having to pay Sears’ absolutely ridiculous price?

-- LittlePAW - The sweetest sound in my shop, next to Mozart, is what a hand plane makes slicing a ribbon.


18 replies so far

View gbrown4's profile

gbrown4

106 posts in 1299 days


#1 posted 753 days ago

Try your local ace hardware. I work for Hillman, fastener company, and Ace carries a pretty good selection of our fasteners. Also Sutherlands.

-- Greg, Concordia, Mo

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

4763 posts in 1448 days


#2 posted 753 days ago

Would recomend the same and you will get an idea about how much them damned little parts cost even at Ace.LOL If the screws were that hard to remove I’m wondering if some idiot didn’t crossthread them take a magnifier and check it out. If it is new isn’t it under warrenty?

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1155 posts in 1465 days


#3 posted 753 days ago

Doc,

OP said it was USED item.

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2068 days


#4 posted 753 days ago

You might also check McMaster Carr or Fastenal

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7628 posts in 2658 days


#5 posted 753 days ago

I would have asked to talk to the persons’ supervisor!

You should NOT have to PAY ONE PENNY to solve THEIR problem!

Go to the Top if necessary… I would not pay…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1155 posts in 1465 days


#6 posted 753 days ago

Joe,

OP purchased this item used. I highly doubt the problem was caused by the manufacuturer or retail seller. I think it sounds like the original purchaser installed the screws wrong, causing the problem. Sear’s Parts price for the items might sound high but there’s a log of cost tied up in maintaining the logistics necessary to stock items to that level.

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1840 posts in 2167 days


#7 posted 753 days ago

The high cost may be because they are high strength/hardened screws.

-- Joe

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

466 posts in 805 days


#8 posted 753 days ago

Are you talking about the jack screws used to set the knife height (labeled “lifter screw” below)???

There really should be no way you can insert those with the knives and wedge in place.. they sit under the knife! Anyway, those are listed in the manual as being fairly normal 10-32 X 1/2” flat socket head machine screws, and you should be able to find them at any good hardware store such as ACE. The manual even has them flagged with an asterisk and a note saying ”Standard Hardware Item – May Be Purchased Locally”, so I guess they tend to agree :)

If the holes are cross-threaded or damaged, you may need to run a tap through to clean them up first.

I don’t think they need to be hardened or extra strength.. all they do is raise/lower the blade while it’s loose and should not have any (or very, very little) force applied to them once the wedges/blades are locked down. And for a reference to price, you can get a box of 100 from Grainger for $28 and change, so I’m sure you can find them cheaper than what Sears wants to charge!

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Roger's profile

Roger

14177 posts in 1410 days


#9 posted 753 days ago

If you have a good old-style hardware store, you might find some that match. Good luck. I sold a jointer just like you’re talkin about a couple o years ago. I replaced it with a Grizzly G0586 8”.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7628 posts in 2658 days


#10 posted 753 days ago

Sorry… for mistake…

Sounds like we have a Solution to the problem!

Great going!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View teejk's profile

teejk

1208 posts in 1290 days


#11 posted 753 days ago

raises a good point regardless of brand (changing knives on a Delta is no different). For whatever reason they tend to “weld” their way into the threads.

#1 Get a long handled T-wrench that fits the screw

#2 apply some penetrating oil

#3 have a beer while waiting for #2 to work

#4 get the band aids out

#5 have another beer

Then try to release those screws.

Repeat as necessary.

Next lesson is setting the new knives.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10606 posts in 1296 days


#12 posted 753 days ago

Paul, Just take one of the old screws with you to Ace or Southerlands to be sure the threads are the same. Either place should have them.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View LittlePaw's profile

LittlePaw

1571 posts in 1684 days


#13 posted 753 days ago

Well teejk, been there, done that. today I finally found and bought the new replacement screws, brought them home, and started screwing the new screws in. Gues what? The NEW screws (yes, I double checked them to make sure they were the correct ones) would go in part way – about half way – and no more. I tried another new screw = same thing. Then tried a different hole with a new screw – same result . . . another different hole w/a new screw – only half way. My conclusion= when the previous owner forced the screws in AFTER setting the blade in, he actuallly damaged the hole, so that even brand new screws would not go all the way in. He must have REALLY forced those screws in! I am surprised that none of the screw heads broke off with that much force!
So, now what? Do I need to take it to a machine shop and have them re-tap the hole? Could that repair the threads in those holes, or would I have to buy a new “round thing” that holds the blades? No wonder he sold it to me so cheap! LESSON LEARNED: when something is real cheap, find out why before buying!

-- LittlePAW - The sweetest sound in my shop, next to Mozart, is what a hand plane makes slicing a ribbon.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10606 posts in 1296 days


#14 posted 753 days ago

Paul, If you are POSITIVE the new screws have the correct threads (SAE vs. metric) and they won’t thread. You MAY be able to clean up the stripped/mangled threads with the proper tap yourself. Otherwise, it’s drill em out, retap with larger size tap, and get bigger screws.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

466 posts in 805 days


#15 posted 753 days ago

Does sound like wrong screws.. maybe 10-24 instead of 10-32? Too long maybe? Get a depth gauge and verify the hole depth. If it’s good, run a 10-32 bottoming tap down ‘em to clean up the threads. I doubt you have enough space to drill and re-tap to a bigger screw, but maybe. One last alternative.. just don’t use them! Nothing says you have to have jack screws and there are about a zillion jointers/planers out there that don’t have them and work just fine. They are just there to make it easier to install the knives and have nothing to do with the operation of the machine itself.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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