Shop floor

Seems like it would work. I’m not sure if it makes any difference, but you may want to consider placing the plastic on the gravel before the foam… I’m thinking that would keep ground moisture from contacting the foam and further away from the wood, but you risk poking holes in the plastic with the gravel if you do that.
It might be a challenge to get it level too. And I wouldn’t think it would take too well to any extremely heavy equipment.
I’d be curious to know how it turns out.
Or what about alternate materials like patio pavers or bricks?

-- The Dude abides

Could you add treated sleepers under the plywood? Maybe treated 2×4s? Then you can fasten the plywood down, makinf it one big, solid floor. Plastic on top of the gravel, and fill in the spaces between sleepers with foam board. Be sure to compact the gravel before you start anything else. Just get the gravel level and well compacted, just like you were going to pour a floor. Tape the seams on the plastic, as well.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

Welcome to LumberJocks Dennis!

Good luck on your move and may you have continued success.

Dennis here is what I’d do, dig down below grade into the dirt I’d say about 6 inches the whole complete area, getting the gravel out, bring in center blocks space them about 3’ apart in rows, level and plumb them and then lay a 2×4’s edge way frame for support (2×6s would be better though) on top of them then lay the wood flooring ply board on top of them.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

Dennis, welcome to LJ. I don’t know the size of your shop or your budget. However, if I were doing your project, I would want to put down a good vapor barrier, insulation, tubing for radiant heat and finally, 3.5” concrete. The insulation keeps the heat in the building and that helps prevent your tools from rusting. You should be able to put the chute from the concrete truck through a door and wheel barrow the concrete where it needs to go. One yard will cover about 90 square feet @ 3.5” thick. It would also be good to have a step up into the building to keep any ground water out. FWIW

-- Art

Wow. Five years with all the mag subscriptions and never a reply. This site is the best I’ve come across in a long time.
Thanks for all the feedback to my post. I think I am going to try and convince the landlord to let me do concrete. That would be the most economicle. Besides, the structure is just a pole barn set next to the mobile home. Really just needs a garage door. If I wasn’t concerned about moisture I would have moved the tools in by now.
Again, Thanks people and I will keep posting about my progress.

If its in a funny spot there has been a good amount of usage of “Gyp-Crete” being used in the commercial industry. From what i gather its a light weight blend of gypsum and concrete. I couldnt comment on the costs though.

Welcome to the gang Dennis.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

Here’s a low tech suggestion:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3M-GVdz1xo

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

Thanks Chrisstef, I’m going to look into it. I do have connections in the concrete industry if I can go that way. Waiting for my budy the landlord to stop by so I can sign off on something.

Gyp-crete is for leveling out existing slabs without adding to much extra wieght to the existing structure, it is not in any way structural and would crack and heave it’s not structual due to the fact there is no agrigate which gives concrete it’s strength and I’m not to sure it would save you any money. Gyp- crete is a money saver when you are trying to save yourself the cost of jacking out a slab and starting over. It’s used in comercal buildings mostly sometimes it’s used as a sound deadener over wooden floors. A vapor barrior of plastic sheeting and concrete would be you best bet and last for years to come just remember if you do it yourself it is very hard work and it’s turning into a large rock as soon as it comes off the truck and the hotter the day the sooner it tuns into said rock. good luck

-- If I cut it too short I can scab a piece on, but if it's too long what do I do?

Mention to your landlord that a concrete floor (radiant heated?) will increase the value of his/her property and will increase the chances of keeping you as a long term tenant. Both will be more profitable in the long run for the landlord.

-- Art