Installing new kitchen sink & base cabinet

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Forum topic by boston_guy posted 07-07-2012 08:09 PM 6772 views 0 times favorited 35 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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149 posts in 2175 days

07-07-2012 08:09 PM

Let me explain something I’m trying to do in my kitchen.

The total counter space I have is 48 inches. Of this, 24 inches are going to be taken up by a stackable washer and dryer (to the immediate left of where the sink will be). The washer and dryer are both 24 inches wide and 67 inches high.

I will then be left with 24 inches to install a sink and cabinet underneath it. For a place to place the dishes, after I wash them, I’m planning on installing a granite or tile shelf above the sink. But to do this I will have to remove the present cabinet and install a smaller one.

So what is the accurate way to explain my situation? Should I say I need a sink that can fit a 24-inch base cabinet? Can I get a cabinet and sink to fit this space?

Does this sound like a plan that can work?

35 replies so far

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1650 posts in 2297 days

#1 posted 07-08-2012 06:12 AM

Once you have your stackables in place, measure the length and width of the remaining space available for the sink cabinet and take those measurements to a cabinet shop or your local Big Box home improvement outlet and they will help you.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

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2873 posts in 2236 days

#2 posted 07-08-2012 06:22 AM

24” is a standard size. You can get a sink base that size and a sink to fit, at any big box store. You might even get a counter that narrow but I’m not sure on that one, you may have to cut down something larger.

On a related note, install the sink and faucet into the counter ‘before’ setting it into place. Trust me on that one, it will save you a whole lot of headache.

-- You can collect dust or you can make dust. I choose to make it.

View dhazelton's profile


2771 posts in 2322 days

#3 posted 07-08-2012 12:33 PM

Everything you want to do is easily done with standard stuff. The only thing I’d question is having dishes stored so close to a washer – if you get an out of balance load or the floor isn’t beefy enough your dishes will be chattering and complaining like crazy during the spin cycles.

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Bill White

4948 posts in 3985 days

#4 posted 07-08-2012 01:02 PM

24” sink base with false drawer front on top of door. Single bowl 18” drop in SS sink (get a deep one). You’re good to go.
Granite shelf is gonna be heavy….real heavy.


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893 posts in 2701 days

#5 posted 07-08-2012 01:26 PM

Good call Bill,
I ‘m curious…why tile or granite? Never seen that before. Seems it would be expensive and heavy.

You can see their unfinished sides underneith too. A simple wood shelf with a nosing would be so much easier.

3 ft. wide sink base is the most prefered width in order to get a decent sink size, disposal, water filter, room for plumbing, maybe a garbage can.

Too bad you can’t move the washer into a closet or the basement…. Can you? There’s your solution.

Good luck with your project.

View boston_guy's profile


149 posts in 2175 days

#6 posted 07-09-2012 08:23 PM


Thanks so much for the welcoming comments and the feedback to my proposed project.

I live in a small condo (535 square feet in total).

dhazelton: In terms of the dishes chattering because of the washer, do you think they will chatter if they’re on a shelf?

Bill White: Thanks for suggesting I get an 18” deep stainless steel sink. I’ll look for one. I’ve found one that’s 20” wide by 20” long. But I didn’t measure how deep it was.

reedwood: The granite for the shelf was just a suggestion. After reading your comments, I think you’re right, it will be too heavy. But remember that this sink is for placing a rack to hold washed dishes and water will drip onto it. If it’s a wooden shelf won’t it get water damage? Unless you’re suggesting I coat it with polyurethane. What do you mean by having a shelf with a nosing? Also, What would be the best way to secure a shelf onto the wall? A carpenter had also suggested a tiled shelf. Any other suggestion?

Sorry to sound so stupid.

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149 posts in 2175 days

#7 posted 07-09-2012 08:46 PM

Thought photo of my kitchen sink might help…

Kitchen Sink

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1730 posts in 3093 days

#8 posted 07-09-2012 09:37 PM

Finding a 24” sink base shouldn’t be much of a problem. Your issue is going to be finding a sink that you can use without sacrificing almost all of your counter top. You’re probsbly looking at some kind of bar sink.

A rack under an upper cabinet should work for stacking clean dishes, bur where will you stack the dirty dishes before you wash them?

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

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149 posts in 2175 days

#9 posted 07-09-2012 10:54 PM

Where the dishes are at the moment is where the stackable washer and dryer will be.

The cabinet above the sink is coming out. The new one will be much shorter, probably 15 or 18 inches high.

The shelf will go above the sink at an appropriat height to be determined.

Is it okay to have the new cabinet go in front of the door frame as the sink cabinet does? If I do this, I would have to remove part of the door frame so that the cabinet can be right up against the wall.

View NoLongerHere's profile


893 posts in 2701 days

#10 posted 07-10-2012 01:49 AM

The picture helps alot to see what your existing conditions are.

Ahah….I see a doorway, a wierd soffit probably hiding something, another door opening!, some very old 60s style cabinets, painted orange, a 4ft. upper cabinet full of stuff – and you plan to replace it with a tiny cabinet that usually goes above a microwave. And, you have oak floors and no toe kick in the old cabinet. (the unfinished floor is going to show in front with the new cabinet)

You have some major issues to address. This is not an easy do it yourself job.

You will have to install a gray box in the wall with a drain line so you’re going to need a plumber and maybe an electrian to relocate outlet. Is the dryer gas or electric? How are you going to vent the dryer?

You do know, this unit is probably going to stick out past the 25” counter top about 2 -3 inches and will look ugly from the sides. It’s in the middle of the room so it will shake the floor. Have your carpenter check the framing.

I’m still curious if this is your only choice for the washer location. Do you have any other base cabinets/ ctops in the kitchen? Could you relocate the sink? Then you could install units side by side under a 4 ft. counter top and still have a much needed 4ft. upper cabinet above.

The “drying shelf” idea is very wierd. Nevermind the wood shelf if you’re going to put wet stuff on it. That’s what a drying rack is for on the counter next to the sink like you have already…. are you married?

I wouldn’t cover the edge of the door frame anymore than it already is… always good to leave a reveal to help hide imperfections. Plus, c top will extend at least 1/4” past cabinet. Door trim will end on top of back splash.

You are about to spend alot of money doing something that will look really bad and end up ruining your kitchen.

I would strongly suggest building a cabinet for the W/D in the next room or put them in a closet. You’re trying to do too much with this space.

Keep asking questions and get a professional to help you with this one.

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149 posts in 2175 days

#11 posted 07-10-2012 04:30 AM

reedwood: Hi. Thanks for the detailed response. Let me try to answer your questions.

First, I will not be doing this job myself. I’ll be getting a carpenter. But I want to have as much info beforehand.

Regarding the toe kick and unfinished wood showing when I get the new cabinet, good point. What if my carpenter sands and puts polyurethane on the unfinished part? I had the same issue when I replaced my ancient gas on gas Magee stove with a modern stainless steel GE one that was not as big. I had 10 inches of unfinished hardwood floor exposed in front of my new stove. I brought in a Vietnamese floor sander last summer and he sanded and put polyurethane on the unfinished wood. The only problem was that the area he sanded appeared lighter than the rest of the floor which was sanded in 2004. But it appears as though the newly sanded area is gradually blending in with the rest of the floor or is it just my imagination?

Regarding the washer/dryer, they are both Miele ( and which is a high-end German appliance company.

Yes, I will need a plumber to install the washer/dryer.

I have already been to the building inspector’s office in my town and know that my plan for the installation is sound.

I already have an electrician who is going to install an outlet and a sub-panel with a circuit for the washer/dryer (right now the electrical box is in the basement. My condo is on the 3rd floor which is the top floor in the building).

The dryer is electric and will vent to the top left of the door on the left of the sink. The area is out of view of the photo. The vent will go into the wall on the left of the area where the dish rack is. Then it go above the door on the left (while still behind the wall) then it will turn left and will be above a kitchen window that is out of view of the photo. Then it will vent outside.

I don’t see how the washer/dryer is going to stick out. Both units are 24 inches wide.

Yes, this is the only spot for the washer/dryer.

But I’m planning on creating a new counter area on the opposite side of the kitchen from the sink.

I don’t see why the drying shelf is a weird idea. Rather, I’d love to get suggestions as to what to use for this shelf.

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2771 posts in 2322 days

#12 posted 07-10-2012 12:14 PM

boston guy, I don’t know how strong the floor is, but everything in such close proximity may make your dishes clatter. A Miele is high end stuff, so it may not be an issue. I would suggest that you find a cutoff of Corian type material for a shelf. You could always do a flip up type shelf on the right of the cabinet as well so you get more space for whatever (I know the doorway is there, but if it’s hinged it might work – make sure when it flips up it overhangs the sink). Dumb question – can you move the entry door so you aren’t walking into the work area? That would give you a few extra feet all around and would be an easy project for a carpenter.

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Mainiac Matt

8089 posts in 2353 days

#13 posted 07-10-2012 03:41 PM

just an fwi…

My plumber (who is a personal friend) was not happy that the kitchen designer we used chose a 24” base cab for the sink/disposal. He got it all in there… but he’s a big guy and it’s really tight.

is it just my imagination?

no… it’s real… the wood color changes with exposure to light… this is often desireable and is refered to as the woods “patina”. You may be able to stain the newly sanded to match the patina of the older floor area….

-- It’s the knowledge in your head, skill in your hands and motivation to create in you heart that makes you a woodworker. - Mainiac Matt

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149 posts in 2175 days

#14 posted 07-13-2012 01:30 PM


Your feedback has been very helpful. I’m learning a lot.

I now want to show you something. Look at the photo below.


The area where my fridge is located is diagonally across from my kitchen sink. I plan to move the fridge to another location. Where the fridge is I plan to install a counter and cabinet underneath. I would also like to install an upper cabinet above the counter. However, look at the wall. It is sloped (this is because I’m on the top floor of the condo building. There’s a name for this. Mansard roof? I’m not sure).

Anyway, does the sloped wall mean that I cannot install an upper cabinet? If I can, how would I go about it? Is this something a good carpenter would know how to do? What about the counter cabinet? Should I do anything special due to the slope which will leave a visible gap between the cabinet and the wall when viewed from the side.

I’ll really appreciate any feedback!

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2584 posts in 2986 days

#15 posted 07-13-2012 05:14 PM

Whoever painted the cabinets must be a Tennessee Vol!

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