Bandsaw newbie...blades dull...puzzled

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Forum topic by 1woodchucker posted 07-03-2012 05:22 AM 2241 views 0 times favorited 39 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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15 posts in 2401 days

07-03-2012 05:22 AM

Hello all.

I recently bought two Lennox “woodmaster” re-saw blades; one was a 1.3 tpi 1 1/2 blade and the other was a 1” blade. After four feet of 8” quarter sawn oak, the wood was smoking. I am on a 18” Jet 1 3/4 HP horse saw that has not been switched to 220 yet. I called the company and they seamed surprised. I made sure to set the machine up so as to not let the blade hit any of the metal. Is there something I am missing here?


39 replies so far

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456 posts in 3174 days

#1 posted 07-03-2012 05:56 AM

220 volt should not make a difference.
Which way are the teeth pointing? The blade can be reversed when being uncoiled!

-- "ButI'mMuchBetterNow"

View Bobmedic's profile


382 posts in 3039 days

#2 posted 07-03-2012 06:10 AM

Feeding the workpiece too fast can also cause it to smoke. 8” is a lot of material to cut. If you are pushing too fast the gullets of the blade can’t clear the sawdust fast enough and it gets between the blade and the work piece causing excess heat to build. Try a slower feed rate and let the saw do the cutting and try not to force it.

View dkg's profile


30 posts in 3323 days

#3 posted 07-03-2012 07:38 AM

I switched to carbide tipped blades. They are pricey but they last much longer than the bi-metal blades

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3885 days

#4 posted 07-03-2012 11:42 AM

See how much fun resawing is?

What BobMedic said. Oak is tough and it burns.

I seldom resaw more than 6” because resawing wider
boards is the opposite of fun. I know it looks like fun
in all the magazine articles but it’s not. There are
times when gritting my teeth and making a resaw
cut in a wide board is the right approach but as
a matter of habit I’d rather rip boards to narrower
sizes, resaw, then join. Fast, accurate, and not

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404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 3207 days

#5 posted 07-03-2012 01:24 PM

Are you sure the thrust bearing is at the back of the blade and the guide bearings haven’t taken off the set off the blade?

View 1woodchucker's profile


15 posts in 2401 days

#6 posted 07-03-2012 01:33 PM

I did all of the things above. The blade was the right way, I tried slower feed rates, adjusted the bearings to back the blade, tensioned it according to the saws requirements, etc. The only conclusion I could come up with, is the blades are junk. Has anyone specifically used the Lennox woodmaster? Thanks for the input. I was expecting a euphoric wood cutting experience…

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5264 posts in 3481 days

#7 posted 07-03-2012 06:15 PM

My guess is the blade is too wide. An 1-1/2” blade may not be able to be tensioned adequately by your BS. The kerf closes up on the wood after the cutting teeth pass. I would suggest gong to a 1/2” blade.

View AHuxley's profile


874 posts in 3559 days

#8 posted 07-03-2012 07:10 PM

First what vintage is your Jet, square or triangular size? In either case you have too much blade for the saw, just more so in one case than the other. Which Woodmaster do you have Lenox makes 4 and the tension requirements for the 4 vary widely.

You either have way to fast of a feedrate (very easy if most of your experience is on a table saw) and/or you have some tuning issues.

When I know more I can say more but my bet is the first thing out of my mouth will be to advise you you have too much blade for the saw.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3885 days

#9 posted 07-03-2012 07:38 PM

Try sawing something soft like pine to get a feel for what
you can do with the blade. I prefer as wide a blade as
the saw will take when resawing but it is true you need to
put on more tension with the wider blades. In use
as the blade gets heated the front expands a bit more than
the back.

I tension a resaw blade using the 1/4” deflection between
the guided method. You push on the side of the blade
with 3 fingers and your fingertips should be white at
1/4” deflection with the guides set at 8” over the table.

View AHuxley's profile


874 posts in 3559 days

#10 posted 07-03-2012 09:03 PM

Regarding Loren’s point about as wide as a saw will take: Just because a saw is marketed as being able to use a blade that info is basically useless except that a saws guides will not normally work with blades above or below the marketed width. It would be impossible for a manufacturer to give a fully accurate upper end of width since the type of blade and the gauge of the blade are of as much importance as the width. So when Loren says what a saw can take means more than just what the manufacturer specifies as the widest blade in the blade width spec.

Deflection is a good way to judge tension BUT it takes some experience and trail and error since one must determine how hard to push. But once you “train” your fingers I find it far more accurate and precise then the “flutter method”, I usually use a strain gauge (a Starrett in my case) especially on wide high tension (25-30Kpsi) since my finger/brain interface has a hard time telling 20,000 psi from 30,000 psi.

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15 posts in 2401 days

#11 posted 07-03-2012 10:40 PM

The saw is only about five years old.

I will try ordering some smaller blades and sending a few species of wood through it, and see if that helps.

The blades I used were the “C-band” ones.

As far as the tensioning, I just went with what the saw gauge on the back said to do….???? I will try adjusting it when I get a few more blades.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3885 days

#12 posted 07-03-2012 11:03 PM

Ah – the blade tension gauges on saws are not usually so reliable –
the springs fatigue with use. If you can’t pluck the blade
on the inside of the saw, where it runs unobstructed between
the wheels, and get a distinct musical tone, you’re probably not
cranking it enough.

View AHuxley's profile


874 posts in 3559 days

#13 posted 07-03-2012 11:05 PM

I “think” that makes the saw a square spine but not sure, can you check to sww if the back spine looks like a triangle (the point would be pointing away from the saw) or a rectangular (flat backed) spine. The saws capacities are significantly different.

The Woodmaster C is a carbon blade. Tensioning just by the scale on a saw is a recipe for disaster since it only takes into consideration the width of a blade and not thickness of the band and the type of blade used (either of which can make the tension required vary SUBSTANTIALLY).

View MonteCristo's profile


2099 posts in 2426 days

#14 posted 07-04-2012 02:46 AM


Bosox is singing the praises of Sounds like a SHILL to me. Do you agree ?


I agree with AHuxley that I highly doubt your 18” saw can take a 1.5” blade. My 24” saw can’t ! If you are feeding too fast, I would be surprised given that you only have 1.75 HP. The motor should be screaming for mercy. My guess is your blade is junk.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View 1woodchucker's profile


15 posts in 2401 days

#15 posted 07-04-2012 03:13 AM

What would be the ideal blade to get me through 8” of oak on this saw??? Is there? or is it just not the machine for that.

Thanks again; this is helping me greatly!

showing 1 through 15 of 39 replies

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