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| Forum topic by Milo | posted 351 days ago | 1191 views | 0 times favorited | 20 replies | ![]() |
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351 days ago |
OK, another question this evening. How do you guys measure the distance from the router bit to the fence to properly cut your dados in the right distance from the edge of your boards? Now, I’m sure the guys with the fancy router tables with the snazzy Jessem router table fence just say something like “dial it in”. Well, you guys stink. ;) And yeah, I’m hideously jealous. BUT for those of us with the shop made fence that we have to place by hand and clamp in place, how do you guys do it and get reliable cuts? Thank you for your answers, Milo -- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear... |
20 replies so far
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#1 posted 351 days ago |
If you want the dado an inch from the edge, Stick a piece of one inch material in between the fence and bit. Or you can mark the dado on the edge of your board. Line it up with the bit on the right side of the fence. Set that side of the fence with a clamp.Take the set up board to the left side of the bit. And swivel the fence to meet your mark. -- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne |
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#2 posted 351 days ago |
I agree with John and or you can make yourself a “story stick”. -- Bruce http://plans.testsitem3.info http://www.sawmillgirls.com |
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#3 posted 351 days ago |
Then always run a test on a scrap befor putting the good stuff to the bit. |
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#4 posted 351 days ago |
Here is a COOL router dado jig. Most dados are not easily cut using a router table fence… rabbets are another story, going the Long direction… where you line it up as if you were using a table saw… you have a fence… you have a bit… Are these for your shelves? Dadoing sides for the shelves? Sounds like you need a story stick which was made from the Plans… To be sure each side lines up with the other, it may work out to put the sides together, side by side, and cut the dados for both sides at the same time (setup). Are you talking about a possible Stopped dado so the groove is not shown from the front? I’m shooting in the dark… I’m not sure what you want to do… Hope this helps… What are you really talking about? -- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500" |
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#5 posted 351 days ago |
I was just thinking about stopped dados for mortises. I’m playing with several different ideas right now and was watching am old (1989!) New Yankee Workshop where he was using a simple router table. -- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear... |
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#6 posted 351 days ago |
Some people may cringe at my method but I have really good luck with it and it serves three purposes – especially for stopped dados. The added bonuses: |
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#7 posted 351 days ago |
I like to use drill bits to measure the distance from the fence to the bit, just lay the shank end of it against the fence and slide it over til it just hits the router bit. -- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty |
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#8 posted 351 days ago |
I like Joe’s and Chris’ methods. I use set up bars or the drill bit method, also. -- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton |
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#9 posted 351 days ago |
I have a hard time measuring to the exact edge of a round fluted bit. That is why I do the hole drilling method. It has worked out great for me so far. Also starting and stopping the cut in pre-drilled holes eliminated any tear out and burning I was getting. |
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#10 posted 351 days ago |
I use one of these handy little devices. Also perfect for checking bit height
-- Never trust a man in winklepickers |
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#11 posted 350 days ago |
Renners, that just suck. How dare you throw something so practical into the mix… btw, where’dya get it? ;) Seriously, that is cool. “Trend” measuring tool? Off to google… Ah, Rockler has it. Christmas list! Joe, I like what you suggested. But here’s another stupid question. Since the router bit is a single point in the center of the table, does the fence really need to be “Square”? As long as it’s straight, shouldn’t your wood pass in a straight line past the center router bit? Right? More mud for the looking glass… -- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear... |
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#12 posted 350 days ago |
Milo, I didn’t want to butt in and start something… LOL You are 100% correct! The main thing about a Router Table Fence is that it must be Straight! If you have a straight edge on a Workpiece and you adjust the fence to straight-bit distance to 1/2”, you will get a groove 1/2” from the edge of the workpiece all along the board. It makes NO DIFFERENCE where the fence is on the table… it can be anywhere… You’re merely adjusting the distance from the fence to the bit… That’s it. I hope that answers your question… so you understand it… LOL Thank you. -- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500" |
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#13 posted 350 days ago |
Joe, you NEVER butt in! ;) -- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear... |
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#14 posted 350 days ago |
Joe is right. I just never have enough confidence that my work piece is straight, so I never set my fence based on that. I use it for spacing only |
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#15 posted 350 days ago |
lumberjoe , that is a unique method that you use , but I ‘m going to give it a shot next time I’m in need. -- When did quiet and quite become the same word ? I'm guessing about the same time as your and you're did. |
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