LumberJocks

Dados For Box Bottoms

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by gfadvm posted 07-02-2012 02:53 AM 1972 views 2 times favorited 47 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11478 posts in 1434 days


07-02-2012 02:53 AM

I use 1/4” ply for my box bottoms but as you all know it is not 1/4”. What do you all use to cut the dados for this undersized ply? Mitered boxes vs. boxjointed where stopped dados are needed? The ply I get is not even consistently undersized! It ranges from 3/16 to 7/32 and I hate those rattling panels. Greg uses strips of rubber band shims which stop the rattle but I would like an option. Thanks for pondering this.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm


47 replies so far

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7186 posts in 2047 days


#1 posted 07-02-2012 02:58 AM

andy they make those little rubber balls that they use for making cabinet panels, i have yet to use them as all of my boxes are solid wood and i plane them to the right size…but you might look up those rubber balls that they use for cabinet work…or, switch over to solid wood bottoms and make your own, i use 1/4 and sometimes i use 3/8..and since i make them, they come out just right..is that what your looking for…grizz

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

15450 posts in 1082 days


#2 posted 07-02-2012 02:59 AM

Maybe just make two cuts on the table saw and adjust the second one to make the proper width.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Sawkerf's profile

Sawkerf

1730 posts in 1812 days


#3 posted 07-02-2012 03:00 AM

For 1/4” ply, I set my TS up for a rip cut ~1/4” deep then move the fence just enough to get my dado width with a second pass.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11478 posts in 1434 days


#4 posted 07-02-2012 03:02 AM

Grizz, The rubber balls solve the rattle (like the rubber band strips) but don’t solve the ill fitting dado issue. Monte/Sawkerf, That works for mitered boxes but not for boxjointed ones.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7186 posts in 2047 days


#5 posted 07-02-2012 03:04 AM

check these out david http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003883/603/Space-Balls.aspx

opps put this in after you addressed it, ok…well ….....next idea

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Greg..the Cajun Wood Artist's profile

Greg..the Cajun Wood Artist

5252 posts in 2052 days


#6 posted 07-02-2012 03:06 AM

Andy…there are several router bit manufacturers that make undersized straight bits specifically for plywood. I have been using them lately and find them convenient and accurate.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Search2/Search.aspx?query=undersized%20plywood%20router%20bits

-- Each step of every Wood Art project I design and build is considered my masterpieceā€¦ because I want the finished product to reflect the quality and creativeness of my work

View patron's profile

patron

13156 posts in 2085 days


#7 posted 07-02-2012 03:10 AM

maybe you need a 1/8” straight cutter
and do the same stop cuts just
by moving the fence too

here are some
and euro sizes too

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_straight.html

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11478 posts in 1434 days


#8 posted 07-02-2012 03:17 AM

David, I’m trying to avoid using the 1/8” bit and multiple cuts if possible but your link to the undersized bits may be the answer I need. Thanks! I’m not too lazy to make multiple cuts but I take a risk every time I need to reposition my stop blocks for the stopped dados.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Nate Meadows's profile

Nate Meadows

1077 posts in 950 days


#9 posted 07-02-2012 03:30 AM

I use these for my plywood dados. They match the thickness of the ply exactly! The are very well made and have stayed sharp forever!

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v100-0242/ea_-_straight_bits

I hope that helps.

Nate

-- "With a little bit of faith, and some imagination, you can build anything!" Nate

View Boxguy's profile

Boxguy

1537 posts in 1011 days


#10 posted 07-02-2012 08:01 AM

Andy,

I have better luck making thicker bottoms and using 1/2” to 3/4” plywood. I generally buy 3 or 4 of the 4×8 sheets from the same stack, and stain one walnut, one cherry, and leave two maple. I cut them all in half lengthwise and then cut each half into about 8 inch wide strips 8 feet long. If I find I’m using a lot of one color I stain another half board and cut it into strips, or if I find I need an exceptionally wide bottom, I have material for that too.

The bottom line is that I have material for several months and can just carefully set up my dado for that one size and have a consistent fit. Since I have one saw that I dedicate to dado cuts and nothing else, I make one setup and I am good for several months of boxes.

I find that a little heavier bottom helps balance the open lids, makes a more sturdy box, and really makes very little difference in terms of the room inside the box. Plywood is stable enough that you can glue it on all four sides and stop that rattle you are talking about.

-- Big Al in IN

View nomercadies's profile

nomercadies

533 posts in 1082 days


#11 posted 07-02-2012 11:16 AM

There is a ton of information in this conversation …

-- Chance Four "Not Just a Second Chance"

View Granddaddy1's profile

Granddaddy1

181 posts in 945 days


#12 posted 07-02-2012 02:39 PM

Andy, my solution is to rout 1/8” dadoes in the box, then use the table saw and cut a relief rabbet around the bottom material, adjusted to whatever depth gives the proper 1/8” remaining lip. A little trial and error with some scrap is necessary because, like you say, even the 1/4” material is not uniform. Obviously you leave the thicker portion to the bottom of the dado to allow for variance. This way you can cut stopped dadoes with no problem.

-- Ron Wilson - maker of fine firewood!

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

15303 posts in 1932 days


#13 posted 07-02-2012 02:44 PM

These are the bits I used for a Entertainment center I built on here. They worked perfectly. Good luck.

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2008040/29404/whiteside-3piece-undersized-plywood-dado-router-bit-set-with-12-shank.aspx

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View GrandpaLen's profile

GrandpaLen

1586 posts in 1016 days


#14 posted 07-02-2012 04:30 PM

gfadvm,

I just run a light bead of clear silicone sealer on the edge of those ill fitting/irregular thickness 1/4” ply bottums.

It stops the rattle and will move with seasonal changes. – Len

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2098 posts in 932 days


#15 posted 07-02-2012 05:49 PM

CMT makes a set of 3 specially-sized router bits that match the actual sizes of what are nominally 1/4”, 1/2” and 3/4” plywood.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

showing 1 through 15 of 47 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase