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Compound Slide don't slide easy

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Forum topic by 1thumb posted 755 days ago 833 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1thumb

78 posts in 755 days


755 days ago

First post. Hello eveyone. Older Hitachi 10 inch slide, used heavily, great saw don’t want to replace. Using drylube now to assist slide. Some one told me to use 500 grit sandpaper over the arms to smooth out and ease action. Makes sense to me but never heard of that before. Feedback, suggestions?


14 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

7234 posts in 2247 days


#1 posted 755 days ago

If there is oxidation on the slide sanding will probably help.

If the saw has been dropped one of the rails may be bent.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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patron

12957 posts in 1940 days


#2 posted 755 days ago

eventhough yu can’t see them
metel gets little snags and bumps
the sanding can’t hurt

when cleaning up a sticky jointer
i did the whole thing too
to no avail
my buddy suggested a wire wheel
in a battery drill (he was an old welder guy)
i finally tried it as a last resort
on all the moving parts

it worked flawlessly !

welcome to LJ’s !

enjoy

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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teejk

1206 posts in 1283 days


#3 posted 755 days ago

just MHO…I don’t own a slider but before I would remove any metal, I’d try a healthy dose of Johnson’s paste wax in the area where part A goes into part B (that stuff is AMAZING for more things than most people know about)...and if that doesn’t work, it won’t hurt anything.

step 2 would be skip the dry lube and go directly to Liquid wrench…you say it is old and I think your problem is a build-up of “junk”. there again, if it doesn’t work, no harm done.

View cloakie1's profile

cloakie1

204 posts in 1153 days


#4 posted 755 days ago

i would try cleaning all moving parts with a good degreaser….even disassembly may be required to clean properly. rubbing the slide with a rag as you are cleaning should determine if there is any obvious snags the blow it down to throughly dry.next step is to spray a drift of dry glide and let it dry till it leaves a white haze.polish this with a clean rag and then repeat the step with a heavier coat….again polish with clean rag and then reassemble. as long as nothing is bent or to worn then it should run freely. i never use any form of liquid lubricant because it attracts dust which builds up causing everything to bind….hope this helps

-- just get stuck in and have a go!!!

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teejk

1206 posts in 1283 days


#5 posted 755 days ago

cloakie

I agree about liquid lubes…but paste wax will dry and there is something in the Johnson product that is one of the most aggressive solvents I have seen (I’ve come to use it on almost all stained projects that don’t need Poly…the wipe rags come out dirty).

same with liquid wrench…it’s a solvent and dries out pretty quickly.

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1thumb

78 posts in 755 days


#6 posted 755 days ago

Thanks everyone. Not dropped, no oxidation but some burrs so maybe will try the 5-600 grit paper. Johnsons Paste wax on the dual slider arms? Interesting.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3047 posts in 1274 days


#7 posted 755 days ago

I would take the saw apart and check for dust build up before I sanded anything. Then you can sand if it is clean. I have never had this problem but this would be my approach. It is difficult to put meat back on the tubes in such small amounts. This will loosen the saw if there is dust and you will still have the dust plus room for more dust.

View mrg's profile

mrg

519 posts in 1598 days


#8 posted 755 days ago

Check the bushings that the slide tubes go through. Take them apart and clean if worn real bad order new ones.

-- mrg

View 1thumb's profile

1thumb

78 posts in 755 days


#9 posted 755 days ago

can’t really take it apart. 2 felt washers act as dust collecters inside the slide housing. When the slide sticks, blowing air thru the housing to get rid off the dust works for a few minutes then ame problem persists. I think I’m going to try some 600 grit on the arms. very lite, dust off then try Johnsons paste wax, I think. Tried to post image

View 404 - Not Found's profile

404 - Not Found

2544 posts in 1568 days


#10 posted 754 days ago

I’d start by cleaning the rails down with wire wool and waxilit, the planer anti seize compound. Take a look at the exploded parts drawing for spare parts at how this comes apart. If a couple of felt washers is all you need to do a strip down and rebuild, they shouldn’t cost you much.

View AndyDuframe's profile

AndyDuframe

48 posts in 2189 days


#11 posted 754 days ago

I’ve had the same problem with my Makita 10” slide, but it was doing this right out of the box (really annoying!). Guess I’ve never had the patience to take the whole thing apart and look for the hangup, but looks like that’s my best option. Other than that, it’s a pretty decent saw—almost seems like an industrial-grade piece of machinery. I’m sure it’s worth the trouble to fix.

-- http://www.ezwoodshop.com

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1thumb

78 posts in 755 days


#12 posted 754 days ago

Renners- I did the steel wool, 0000. Seemed to work good, went over it lightly. Kind of amazing how that very fine steel wool knocked burrs down and smoothed out the arms. Planned on trying the Paste Wax but could only find a large $10 tub, (or an ‘organic’ version for $20), figured I needed about a teaspoon so I passed.

Andy, sorry to hear that about your Makita. Don’t know how long you’ve had it but I’d contact the supplier or Makita. The action on those slides when the saw is brand new is usually smooth as silk.

Thanks everyone.

View Gshepherd's profile

Gshepherd

1436 posts in 800 days


#13 posted 753 days ago

My 10 year old Ridgid 12in slider started to get sticky and I used WD-40 and followed with a good air blasting then sprayed a little bit on some foamed backed Mikron 500 grit then 1000 grit and a light spray with that Top Coat spray and it works just like new again. IMP the WD-40 will get into the bearings and losen up any gunk in there, kinda like the old computer mouse which had to be clean once in a while.

-- What we do in life will Echo through Eternity........

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teejk

1206 posts in 1283 days


#14 posted 752 days ago

WD is a solvent also but tends to leave a gum when it dries…I learned the hard way on guns (I think WD derives from “water displacement formula 40”).

Steel wool…I use alot of that stuff (never understood why Minwax says not to use it between coats on their poly).

but the combination of the 2 should give you a nice shiny surface with minimal damage to the metal.

Johnson’s paste wax…usually easy to find at $6/per can. If a can is too much, then keep it around and use it on other stuff (like woodworking projects that don’t require a poly top, cast iron tool tops etc.). I use about 4 cans/year…

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