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Baileys? Stanley? Bed Rock?

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Forum topic by corpmule posted 763 days ago 1555 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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corpmule

55 posts in 782 days


763 days ago

What is the significance of the “Bailey” as opposed to the regular “Stanley” planes? Or even the Bed Rock models? Are there major differences?

I’m primarily interested in the significance of the “Bailey” line as I’m looking at a used one being sold locally.


21 replies so far

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile

Smitty_Cabinetshop

9624 posts in 1223 days


#1 posted 763 days ago

The answers to each of your questions are here:

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm

Go to the pages w/ 602 – 608 planes, within Blood and Gore, to read about Bedrocks.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1298 days


#2 posted 763 days ago

Yes please!
Beware, though, not everyone agrees with Patrick about the Bedrock design. I’m not sure it warrants the premium price, but there’s a reason why Lie Nielsen et. al. copied them to a “t”. I like the round walled bedrocks and at least subjectively like the frog design. It’ll probably be lost on you if you don’t move your frog often. All of us plane guys have a ton of Baileys and a handful of Bedrocks. If it’s an early Bailey without any damage, you probably want it. :)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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knotscott

5373 posts in 1981 days


#3 posted 763 days ago

If you get a Bedrock, the odds are overwhelming that you’ll have a plane with excellent bones and good potential:

If you get a Bailey, the odds are very good that you’ll have a plane with excellent bones and good potential…some are better than others:

If you get a plain “Stanley”, the odds are good that you’ve got an economy plane with plastic handles, fewer adjustments, less precision, etc., that will be much harder to tune into becoming good working plane.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Smitty_Cabinetshop

9624 posts in 1223 days


#4 posted 763 days ago

knotscott – very nice answer indeed!

And I love that t13 SW in particular. Although the blue one is nice, too. ;-)

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

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JayT

2115 posts in 816 days


#5 posted 763 days ago

What they said. ^

Bedrock was sold as Stanley’s premium line, Bailey a notch below, . I like to think of them in comparison to GM cars. Bedrocks are the Cadillac, while Bailey is the Buick. There are also lower rungs on the Stanley brand ladder such as Defiance and Handyman. At that point, you are back to knotscott’s explanation.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

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knotscott

5373 posts in 1981 days


#6 posted 763 days ago

That 5-1/4 T-13 is one of my faves…. a “Sweetheart” for sure!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Don W

14673 posts in 1173 days


#7 posted 763 days ago

yep, what everybody else said. But beware, they are like potato chips and beer. You can’t have just one!!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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BubbaIBA

184 posts in 982 days


#8 posted 763 days ago

I have to agree with Patrick….the Bedrock line is great for collectors because not many were made compared to the numbers of Bailey types but a better plane….not so much. A case of sizzle when you need steak.

A plane is a devise for holding a cutting iron, all else being equal what make a superior plane is how well it holds and fixes the iron to the plane’s body. The interface of the iron and frog of Bedrocks and Baileys up to type 15 are the same but the method of attachment of the frog to the receiver is, I believe, superior on the Bailey planes to that of the Bedrocks. The pin/receiver of the Bedrock is a weaker method of attachment than the Bailey screws and is easily damaged if over tightened. While the Bedrock frog and receiver have more surface area than Baileys’, in practice there is no real advantage over pre-type 16 Baileys’. Ease of mouth adjustment is a “who cares”, just another example of marketing sizzle, some of my favorite Baileys’ are type 9s which are before the introduction of the frog adjustment screw. As always YMMV.

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lysdexic

4779 posts in 1228 days


#9 posted 762 days ago

“they are like potato chips and beer. You can’t have just one!!”

You know, I’ve never had a problem eating just one potato chip.:^)

-- It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe. - Muhammad Ali

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corpmule

55 posts in 782 days


#10 posted 759 days ago

Bertha said, ”...If it’s an early Bailey without any damage, you probably want it. :) “

Well, I did indeed want it. :) But wheather it meets that criteria or not is something I’m really not qualified to answer. I have determined, via this web site, http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm , that it’s a type 9. At least as far as I can tell.

I’m hoping someone on this site can give me a clue as to it’s value. As you can see in the pictures below, it’s looks pretty clean. It has a nice patina on it so, I don’t think it needs a lot of clean up and, therein lies my question. Should I do any clean up on it and if so, how much and, how? Electolysis? Wire brush? If it’s not worth a whole lot, if it’s a “good user”, maybe I should. shrug

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JayT

2115 posts in 816 days


#11 posted 759 days ago

From the photos, it looks like someone painted it black at some point (the sides should be bare cast iron, not black and the finish on the rest looks like paint, not the original japanning) If so, you aren’t going to hurt the value by cleaning it up properly and turning it into a user. Along the way, you will probably learn quite a bit about your new tool.

If you need some help getting started, Don W’s webpage is a good resource.

Good luck.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

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Don W

14673 posts in 1173 days


#12 posted 759 days ago

Your pretty close on a type 9, and I agree with JayT, its looks like a pretty bad paint job. If they painted right over some rust, you’d be best to strip it. They may have also just coated the whole thing with shellac. The knob and tote are either shellac or some type of clear coat.

As for value, its probably worth $25 – $40 ($40 on the high side) in its current state.

It will most definitely make a great user.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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corpmule

55 posts in 782 days


#13 posted 759 days ago

Don W said, “As for value, its probably worth $25 – $40 ($40 on the high side) in its current state.”

Well, I guess I paid about $10 too much, dang it! :)

And, I didn’t notice the edges of the base (body) of the plane weren’t bare metal.

Oh well, live and learn.

In that case, I’d like to remove the paint. Will the electrolysis remove the paint? Never mind, I’ll read Don W’s page now. :)

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Don W

14673 posts in 1173 days


#14 posted 759 days ago

electrolysis not remove the paint (well maybe in your case. It will only remove paint with rust under it)

I’d make a list of all the planes I’ve overpaid for, but I just don’t have that much time :-)

I’d also tell you what I paid for my last #6, but don’t want you to hate me.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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corpmule

55 posts in 782 days


#15 posted 759 days ago

laffs! BTW, Don W, Thanks for writing that blog on cleaning (restoring) the planes. I’ve learned a lot from it already.

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