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Finishing advice. Should I stain or not?

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Forum topic by Milo posted 06-27-2012 12:51 PM 1084 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Milo

862 posts in 2074 days


06-27-2012 12:51 PM

I’m looking for suggestions on what I might do with my pie safe. Should I stain it one color, two colors, just spray a finish on, or hand wax it? The sides just look a little funny to me, ya know?

Here is a link to the blog on it.

http://lumberjocks.com/Milo/blog/30697

Thank you in advance for your opinion!

Milo

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...


16 replies so far

View GrandpaLen's profile

GrandpaLen

1586 posts in 1027 days


#1 posted 06-27-2012 01:38 PM

Milo,

Try different stains ,clear finishes or oils on some of your cutoff scraps and one will catch your eye.

It really is your creation. – Len

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View woodworm's profile

woodworm

14134 posts in 2345 days


#2 posted 06-27-2012 01:59 PM

Waterbase stains usually will bring up shy woodgrains/figures to bold & pop up. Have to agree with GrandpaLen, try on the cutoff scraps.

-- masrol, kuala lumpur, MY.

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2169 posts in 1605 days


#3 posted 06-27-2012 02:27 PM

My counsel, Milo, is to leave the stain on the shelf. It will only bring blotching on that wood, and subsequent heartache.

In time those color contrasts will diminish and the lighter shades get darker.

Your metalwork puts it right in the period, and I doubt that there is any historical precedent for “two colors.” I also doubt that these had much if any sheen back in the day. Wax would be an appropriate final finish.

If you want to enrich the wood tone (which will pre-age it some) I’d suggest Sherwin Williams Wood Classics clear (or some word like “clear”). It has no pigment but it deepens the effect of woods like yours. Warmify is a good word. (note—I have no connection to SW, I just like their stuff.)

Thinking about stain is entirely different from thinking about colors. If you paint something red, it’s red, and if you want it blue, you can repaint it blue. With stains, not true.

Stains are more about being true to the wood, true to the project, and true to its function.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Milo's profile

Milo

862 posts in 2074 days


#4 posted 06-27-2012 11:42 PM

Thanks guys. I did want to keep it as natural as possible, going for a period piece look, but I also wasn’t sure if I needed some contrast or not.

Thanks!

Milo

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3213 posts in 1430 days


#5 posted 06-28-2012 12:26 AM

I agree with Lee. This will difficult to stain…well, it will be difficult to make it pretty after you stain it. This is best left alone. Just my 2 cents

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7952 posts in 2807 days


#6 posted 06-28-2012 01:15 AM

I think BLO or just Mineral Oil would look great on it!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5305 posts in 1332 days


#7 posted 06-28-2012 01:21 AM

Mineral oil, or Butcher Block oil and the pie safe

will look awesome. Emmet’s good stuff works well for me.

View Milo's profile

Milo

862 posts in 2074 days


#8 posted 06-28-2012 02:05 AM

Joe, I am blanking… BLO?

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

5305 posts in 1332 days


#9 posted 06-28-2012 02:11 AM

Boiled
Linseed
Oil

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7952 posts in 2807 days


#10 posted 06-28-2012 03:20 AM

On second thought… plain Mineral Oil
would be better than BLO, Boiled Linseed Oil… to remove any chance of not wanted odors…
Mineral Oil, I suspect is much the same as Butcher Block Oil… except a lot cheaper.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Milo's profile

Milo

862 posts in 2074 days


#11 posted 06-29-2012 11:32 AM

Thanks guys, those are good ideas. I’m reaching the final assembly this weekend. I’m going to blog a bit about some repairs I made to the wood that I hope folks will like, then show the final assembly.

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7952 posts in 2807 days


#12 posted 06-29-2012 10:38 PM

You might find it easier to mask-off with blue tape, all of the areas that will be glued.

Then, sand and Finish all parts BEFORE the final assembly… Will be much easier…
... and with an Oil finish, it would cure easier too…

Just thought I’d mention it…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View MNgary's profile

MNgary

236 posts in 1172 days


#13 posted 06-29-2012 11:00 PM

Not sure what you mean by sides look a little funny, but painting with milk paint is also authentic. You can google images for appropriate color choices.

-- I dream of the world where a duck can cross the road and no one asks why.

View Milo's profile

Milo

862 posts in 2074 days


#14 posted 07-01-2012 05:29 PM

Excellent recommendation there Joe, thanks for the reminder.

MNGary, I’m avoiding paint. It almost never works the way I want.

-- Beer, Beer, Thank God for Beer. It's my way of keeping my mind fresh and clear...

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3590 posts in 2715 days


#15 posted 07-01-2012 06:41 PM

Dumb a$$ed question fer ya. What kinda wood?
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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