EEE tips

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Forum topic by tyskkvinna posted 06-25-2012 03:02 PM 1446 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View tyskkvinna's profile


1310 posts in 2980 days

06-25-2012 03:02 PM

I have this jar of EEE finish and I’ve tried to use it a few times and I feel like maybe I’m missing something. Can you guys give me any tips with it?

What’s the best grit to start at when I apply it? How long should I rub it? Is this best with a liberal application or a very small amount? Does it stand on its own or should I apply something on top of it? If so- what is your favourite?

I keep seeing EEE pop up as a great finish and so far I have been underwhelmed with it, which is making me think I’m doing something wrong.

-- Lis - Michigan - -

6 replies so far

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1286 posts in 2992 days

#1 posted 06-25-2012 03:11 PM

Usually, you have to let it have enough friction to dry out the solvents and heat the wax until it melts into the pores. Not sure of the EEE (that I have not used) but at least with HUT and other waxes that I have used.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View PurpLev's profile


8535 posts in 3642 days

#2 posted 06-25-2012 03:15 PM

looks like it’s an abrasive compound, but cannot tell what finishing product they are using in it (kept it confidential other than hinting to WAX being in there which makes sense as a bond).

for turning wood – I usually end sanding at 320x – and use crystal-coat as the finish (friction curing finish) you could probably use EEE on top of something like that to bring out the shine of the finish after you build it up. you could also try it on the bare wood to remove sanding marks as it’s descriptions suggests but I would be hesitant to sand higher than 320 on wood as it’ll start to close the grain which might interfere with the finish absorbtion.

I’ve had great success with crystal-hut alone and/or buffing it with some beeswax as a final coat.

Edit (added): FYI, for crystal-coat (HUT) I apply a few drops on a cloth and coat the entire part to make it look ‘wet’, then with a good grip to produce friction I buff it while turning – it becomes HOT to the touch, and I just pass it back and forth until it shines – rinse and repeat to build up the finish until satisfied.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View BangleGuy's profile


53 posts in 2224 days

#3 posted 06-25-2012 07:17 PM

I use EEE on my CA finishes as the last step after a full course of MM wet sanding up to 8,000 grit. Wipe on, let it dry a bit and buff off with a cotton rag. Seems to add a bit more of a shine to the CA. I finish the item with a coat of Ren wax.


View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

20462 posts in 3099 days

#4 posted 06-25-2012 07:23 PM

Hi Lis. I use it all the time. I sand slow and up to 400. then I wipe the part with EEE with a paper towel and then spin the part pretty fast to polish the wood with the EEE. Then I wipe it with Shellawax and polish it fast again and it gets up to about 2000 finish. I have the CD on Shellawax and they tell you that you also clear lacquer a part after using Shellawax. I tried it and it works fine…...............Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View tyskkvinna's profile


1310 posts in 2980 days

#5 posted 06-25-2012 09:04 PM

hmmmm… okay.. I will have to mess around with it more. So EEE then sehllawax then lacquer?

-- Lis - Michigan - -

View Raymond Thomas's profile

Raymond Thomas

189 posts in 2212 days

#6 posted 06-25-2012 10:19 PM

I normally use EEE Ultra Shine when I polish acrylics; over lacquers and polyurethane. I have used it on turned wood buy only after sanding up to 12,000 grit. It has always given a very high luster to the turned material. I then use a friction wax followed by a light buffing to bring out the shine.

-- Raymond, Charlotte, NC -------- Demonstrate the difference!

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