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How to cut a post to a point???

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Forum topic by Belg1960 posted 763 days ago 1141 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Belg1960

786 posts in 1661 days


763 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: shaping question

Guys, a friend has asked me to make the following mailbox post and would like some help figuring out how to safely cut the top of the post. It is an 8 facet point. I have a good tablesaw and mitersaw(12”) sliding DeWalt and a 14” Delta bandsaw w/riser to accomplish the needed cuts. I had a few buddies give me suggestions but also was told to open this up to the forum as someone else might get some help in the future from this discussion. Any help would be really appreciated. Pat

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!


4 replies so far

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cabmaker

1282 posts in 1405 days


#1 posted 763 days ago

Your slider would do it. Jointer shines on this application if you have one. Need to establish angled cuts on four sides first then register those cuts against either a fence with blade at 45 degree (table saw) or set jointer (if available) fence to 45. Then proceed with remaining four cuts. Hope this makes sense to you. JB

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rance

4125 posts in 1756 days


#2 posted 763 days ago

Tapering jig on the TS for the 1st four cuts. Then add a V-cradle for the remaining four cuts.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View bruc101's profile

bruc101

555 posts in 2138 days


#3 posted 763 days ago

I’ve done several of these before and I do them on a bandsaw. I have a friend that does them with a skill saw.
I’ve enclosed a photo of how I do all the arms on a mailbox or sign post. I dovetail the arm into the post with a support dovetailed in the bottom of the arm. In your case with the scrolled arm support you can dovetail the bottom of the support into the post and the front dovetailed into the arm. This makes a post very pretty and much stronger than holding everything together with lag bolts. I cut the dovetails with a bandsaw also.

On the back of the arm i drill a 3/4” hole and drive a lag bolt into the arm. I glue a 3/4” dowel into the hole and leave about 1/2’ above the post. This makes it look like it’s pegged together. I also do this on the front arm support.

I always put a scroll on the bottom of the arm support and not leave it just a square 4×4 end.

When you dovetail a post together like this you don’t need a long support arm under the arm.

-- Bruce http://plans.sawmillvalley.org http://www.sawmillgirls.com

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Belg1960

786 posts in 1661 days


#4 posted 702 days ago

Wow, Guys I’m truly sorry for not returning to this before now. I’m about to start on this project and appreciate the input, but I have some more questions.
I have a metal tapering jig which I bought many years ago and I don’t think that it would work for this since it comes to a point and the jig has no way to hold the stock in place on the final cut I would have nothing to support the piece to.
Also this thing is designed to cut the taper at the bottom of the jig if I could make so the cut was made at the top then I could rest the extra material against the stop.
Please remember your dealing with a novice when it comes to these types of things, so any pics of the actual jigs or fixtures you guys are being so kind as to post would be VERY helpful. Thanks again and sorry for loosing track of this thread they go by sooo fast.Pat
Is this the option for doing this on the miter saw you were talking about cabmaker?

If so again how do I support this to make the final cut?

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

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