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sealing a cabinet table saw?

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Forum topic by Belg1960 posted 756 days ago 2239 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Belg1960

779 posts in 1652 days


756 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

Good morning folks, got myself a used jet 1100 dust collection system to use with my tablesaw. Now for the issues I need to enclose the motor end on a right hand tilting table saw and could use some input and hints for what not to do and any links for how tos.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!


8 replies so far

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3324 posts in 2547 days


#1 posted 756 days ago

Big mistake to seal the cabinet completly. You MUST have some air exchange for the dust collector to work.
What saw do you have? I get the feeling that it is a contractor saw.
I have a G0444Z right tilt. It has the 4” “shield” panel that fits in the bottom of the cabinet, and a removable panel that covers about 1/2 of the motor opening. Works pretty danged well. Still get some dust above the table, but it is a saw afterall.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Belg1960

779 posts in 1652 days


#2 posted 754 days ago

I guess sealing was a poor choice of words. I need to close it up enough so the draw will be focused to the dust collector. It is a true cabinet saw and the end where the motor is, is wide open.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View cabmaker's profile

cabmaker

1279 posts in 1396 days


#3 posted 754 days ago

Pat, sounds like you may need a motor cover. What saw do you have ? As mentioned it shouldnt be neccesary to seal any thing else.

View Tenfingers58's profile

Tenfingers58

77 posts in 1265 days


#4 posted 754 days ago

Cover the hole with sheet magnet or a thin piece of wood with magnets. You can move it to tilt the blade. If the dust collector sucks it in, the cabinet dosen’t have enough make up air holes creating to much vacuume inside the cabinet.

Try to have air come into the cabinet, across the blade to blow the sawdust out of the gullets before it’s carried out of the cabinet and onto the sawtable.

Sealing up a tablesaw airtight is counterproductive. If no air can get into the cabinet, no air can be sucked out. It dosen’t matter how powerfull your dust collector is.

View CyberDyneSystems's profile

CyberDyneSystems

106 posts in 775 days


#5 posted 753 days ago

Usually in these cases the motor protrudes through the hole,. if not always, at least when it tilts.
We always built boxes out of 1/2 ply to cover these.

Also check out E-bay for Unisaw motor covers,. someones making plastic knock offs for the old egg style and the more modern roughly square style. See if it looks like one of these would cover the Jet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Unisaw-Rockwell-Table-Saw-Replacement-Square-Motor-Cover-Door-NEW-/320919295008?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab847d420

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockwell-Delta-Unisaw-Table-Saw-Motor-Cover-Oval-NEW-Made-in-USA-/320922361428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab8769e54

Also, I feel some of the sentiment re sealing is being exaggerated. It’s nearly impossible, if at least improbable to actually get an air tight seal on a table saw, so it’s not a real danger.

A well sealed saw with a single point of air entry, ie: the blade slot, can be a good thing.
In any case, sealing an open side of a cabinet saw is actually required for good dust collection, and the very reason table saw manufacturers sell these options.

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MrRon

2708 posts in 1830 days


#6 posted 753 days ago

There are four areas where air can pass through the cabinet. They are: around the motor, around the tilt and elevation control shafts, the blade insert area and any gaps between the top and cabinet. The only area that should be sealed is around the motor. The remaining gaps are needed to allow for air flow to the DC. The airflow will carry dust to the DC. On my saw, dust falls straight down and accumulates at the front of the saw, as the outlet to the DC is at the rear. You could resolve this by adding a sheet metal ramp extending from the top-front down to the bottom-rear. Sawdust would then have a tendency to slide down the ramp toward the rear where the DC inlet is located. I haven’t done this yet, but I’m certain it would work well.

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Belg1960

779 posts in 1652 days


#7 posted 121 days ago

Guys, so sorry for not replying to these comments but I must not have been watching close enough. I did build a motor box out of 1/2 ply and got some magnetic sheet material which I used to seal the holes around the tilt shaft. This has been 75% efficient. I believe my biggest downfall is that I attached the 6” hose to the box I made instead of at the bottom of the chute. Like you Ron I think that if I made a pan to guide the sawdust in that direction it would work much better.

-- ***Pat*** Rookie woodworker looking for an education!!!

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile

Newbiewoodworker43

124 posts in 1029 days


#8 posted 121 days ago

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