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**Updated w/ ?** Getting a Ridgid 4512 Table Saw this weekend! Any advise?

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Forum topic by SawDustNeophyte posted 06-16-2012 09:28 PM 2477 views 1 time favorited 49 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SawDustNeophyte

115 posts in 2565 days


06-16-2012 09:28 PM

This will be my first TS although I have used one a few times. Having done a little bit of Woodworking with hand power tools and my miter saw. ( my deck is almost done) I figured I needed to get some advice as I plunge in. Anything will help and all is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Steve

-- So many tools, so little money. *heavy sigh*


49 replies so far

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SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3052 days


#1 posted 06-16-2012 09:33 PM

You must be very excited oh the waiting LOL anyway have fun. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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RussellAP

3059 posts in 1753 days


#2 posted 06-16-2012 09:53 PM

Be sure to have help getting it out of the box. Darn thing is heavy.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#3 posted 06-16-2012 10:11 PM

Steve – Some of the R4512 have had an alignment problem….the blade to fence alignment changes when the blade is raised or lowered. I’d check for the issue right from the start before putting too much time into it. The blade alignment is adjustable, so don’t worry about it being absolutely dead on until you’ve confirmed that the alignment doesn’t change with the blade elevation. Once you’ve cleared that hurdle, set it up, get it aligned well, buy a decent blade for it, take some pics, and post them here! Enjoy!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Bill White

4457 posts in 3427 days


#4 posted 06-16-2012 11:32 PM

You’ve got a lot of set up and alignment to do. Take your time and don’t get frustrated. I just spent 3 days (not full time) setting up my new bandsaw. Get a good drafting square (cheap investment) from an office supply for indexing all the parts. Time well spent will yield good results.
Good luck, and that’s not a negative. I’ll say again——TAKE YOUR TIME.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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SawDustNeophyte

115 posts in 2565 days


#5 posted 06-17-2012 04:38 AM

Yep! Pretty excited here! Been waiting on this awhile. Having Father’s Day and my birthday (Monday) back to back helped. Wife says, “Happy Anniversary” too. Thanks for the advice. I’ll check on the blade elevation alignment issue first thing. Probably won’t get to really get into it until Monday.(sigh)

Thanks again,

Steve

-- So many tools, so little money. *heavy sigh*

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Howie

2656 posts in 2390 days


#6 posted 06-17-2012 11:42 AM

Enjoy your new saw. Take the time to tune it properly and buy a good blade(s).

-- Life is good.

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SawDustNeophyte

115 posts in 2565 days


#7 posted 06-17-2012 08:33 PM

I opened the box and things look ok so far. Still have to check over all the parts using the parts list. I have not checked the alignment problem with the blade elevation because Im not quite sure how to proceed. Can I just take it out of the box and put the blade on and use a square to track the movement?

I have also been reading up on the PALS alignment here and on other forums. Some of the posts state they didn’t make one for the 4512’ but I saw one on peachtree. Does anyone have information these? Are they work the $20 investment?

Steve

-- So many tools, so little money. *heavy sigh*

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Charlie

1100 posts in 1753 days


#8 posted 06-17-2012 08:44 PM

I don’t think you need to assemble it any farther than just putting the blade height adjusting wheel on there and a blade. Bring the blade up almost to the top of its travel. Not necessary or desired to take it hard against the stop. Place something on the table at the rear of the blade (like a ruler) so it’s just touching the blade. Crank the blade down one or 2 revolutions on the handle and watch the ruler. Raise the blade UP one or 2 revolutions and watch the ruler. If you see the blade drift away from the ruler, or if the blade pushes the ruler sideways, you have the alignment issue. No special measuring devices needed. It’s that noticeable.
If you have this issue, just put it all back in the box and take it back and exchange it. Look at serial numbers on yours and whatever you exchange it for. If they’re close to sequential…. probably going to be the same.

The good news is, not all of them have the problem. The bad news is, nobody has been able to FIX it and Rigid wants you to take your brand new saw to an authorized service center for a warranty repair. They won’t send you the parts to fix it.

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bullhead1

228 posts in 1716 days


#9 posted 06-17-2012 10:02 PM

Congratulations, getting new tools is just like x-mas. It sounds like you are limited in your experience on a table saw (“I’ve used one a few times”). All the alignment and adjustments will not save a finger (it will just cut it off with more precision) if you don’t practice safety. Understanding how to make safe use of your new purchase will insure many happy years of woodworking. The use of feather boards, push sticks, jigs for complex cuts, crosscut tables, etc. will help you. Just had to comment on safety issue because the table saw is probably the most unforgiving machine in a woodworking shop. Good luck and safe cutting!

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knotscott

7224 posts in 2842 days


#10 posted 06-17-2012 10:41 PM

There was a post on another forum a few months back saying that the PALS didn’t fit the R4512 like they’re supposed to, but with some grinding he was able to get them to work. They’re a terrific alignment aid…the help hold alignment, and help fine tune it. $20 well spent IMO. A good blade is a great investment too…it’ll help optimize your purchase….save the stock blade for the neighbor’s wood!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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SawDustNeophyte

115 posts in 2565 days


#11 posted 06-18-2012 05:43 AM

Charlie – thanks for the response. I will give it a go tomorrow.

Bullhead1 – thank you for the safety concerns. I am certainly a novice but no cutting will take place until I have the proper safety equipment. I’m still shopping for featherboards and push sticks. That’s also on the list for tomorrow.

Knotscott – if all is a go on the blade elevation I will be placing an order for the pals. Thanks for the imput.

-- So many tools, so little money. *heavy sigh*

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lumberjoe

2893 posts in 1715 days


#12 posted 06-18-2012 12:53 PM

I thought aligning this saw was really easy without any aids at all and in total took me about 20 minutes. You do need to fully assemble the saw to check for alignment issues IMO. Assembly was not that bad, and I completed it all myself with a little assistance getting it upright. All in all, it took me a few hours.
1 – Don’t follow the instructions. They say to tap it over with a hammer.
2 – Do not use a ruler or a straight edge. You just bought a precision machine! treat it like one. Get yourself a dial indicator with a 1 inch full sweep. My father is a machinist, I borrowed one of his but it had a 5 thousands full sweep, that is a little too precise.Attach it to your miter gauge and measure the run out with the blade all the way up
3 – if it less than 2 or 3 thousands, you are probably ok, if not, take the back of the saw off and slightly loosen the 4 bolts.
4 – Use a 36” bar clamp to move the saw into alignment. The clamp will hold the alignment in place so you can re-check, then tighten the bolts without it moving on you. If alignment is good, tighten the bolts
5 – lower the blade and check again. If it is the same as it was cranked up, put the back of the cabinet on and crack open a nice cold soda (no beer around power tools!). If it changed, you are going to want to return the saw or have it serviced. Do not try to adjust it out, it’s not going to happen, you have a defective saw.
6 – Don’t forget to align your fence now. you just changed the blade’s alignment. For this I would recommend getting a machinest’s square. They are far more accurate than a carpenters square, and you will surely find other uses for it.

I have a newer one, and mine stays true. Beware that it probably will not be true out of the box. A few suggestions that will make your life easier aligning the saw:

As far as safety, the saw comes with a push stick that will do the trick. Make sure you fully understand how, where and when to use a feather board

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

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SawDustNeophyte

115 posts in 2565 days


#13 posted 06-18-2012 11:36 PM

Might have a defective saw. Placed the ruler against the rear tooth and dropped the saw blade to the next tooth. It stayed flush against the next tooth.


This pic is flush.


Next I raised it one tooth and this is what I got. I could push the ruler back against the tooth a small amount. Looks to be near a 1/16th inch.

Funny thing is when you lower the blade it goes back to flush against the ruler.

Does this constitute a defective saw?

-- So many tools, so little money. *heavy sigh*

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lumberjoe

2893 posts in 1715 days


#14 posted 06-19-2012 12:05 AM

No, you can see your problem in the pictures.

Please read my post above, this will get your saw aligned :)

1 -The teeth on your blade alternate directions. one tooth will be more to the right, the next tooth will be more to the left. If you look closely at your pics, you will see what I mean. What you want to do is measure the SAME tooth on the front, vs the same tooth on the back.

Also you want to check the alignment from front to back, not just in the front. That will not tell you anything. If you do not have an cannot get a dial indicator, get a combination square and place it in the miter gauge slot. Extend the ruler until it touches the tooth in the front. Move that SAME tooth to the back, and slide your combination square in the in the gauge to the back, WITHOUT adjusting the ruler. It should be the same. This method will get you until about 1/32nd, which some would say is acceptable, but your cuts will be off by that much every 10”

So it’s tough to say if you have a defective saw yet.

-- https://pinepointwoodworks.wordpress.com/

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SawDustNeophyte

115 posts in 2565 days


#15 posted 06-19-2012 01:02 AM

Lumber joe,
I hope I’m explaining this right

The saw is actually still in the box. I just turned it over and put on the blade and the elevation wheel. All I’m measuring is the change when I raise and lower the blade. This was supposed to be the problem on some saws and it couldnt be fixed. I havent tried to check if its parallel to the miter slot since i havent unboxed it yet.

When I measure against the tooth and blade is raised the teeth move to the right slightly. When i lower the blade the teeth all slide back against the ruler.
Now,I just checked against the blade and not the teeth both up and down and it didn’t gap that I could tell. Does this sound right?

-- So many tools, so little money. *heavy sigh*

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