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Could someone help me with a decision of a carbide bandsaw blade?

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Forum topic by riooso posted 795 days ago 2064 views 1 time favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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riooso

38 posts in 1270 days


795 days ago

I have been using Wood Slicer 3/4” variable pitch blade. Been cutting burled or heavily figured black walnut. I have not really cut that many linear feet but already I am getting bad drift with the blade. I do believe that I need to go to a carbide tipped blade and would like some input on a couple of brands. I am thinking with sticking with a 3/4” for my Rikon 18”. It is always best to get input from guys that have used them and I would truly appreciate some feedback. This a fair amount of coin for me but I am wasting some very nice wood.

The “Resaw King” seems like a good blade and I think that it would serve me well, and they say that it can be resharpened but, often times Laguna over hypes their stuff.

The Lennox blade also seems to be a very good blade but they do not mention if it can be resharpened and they offer different models in the carbide line. I have been looking at the Tri-Master

Thanks in advance,
Richard


22 replies so far

View HillbillyShooter's profile

HillbillyShooter

4475 posts in 916 days


#1 posted 795 days ago

My recommendation is to go with the Lennox Tri-Master. I purchased one from Highland Hardware and it sure makes as much difference as going from regular to carbide blades on the TS or router. I’m not seeing good things about Laguna lately and would stay away for that reason. Just search Laguna under Forums for an idea of other LJ’s experiences.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

208 posts in 1945 days


#2 posted 795 days ago

The RK has a thinner kerf and thinner gauge than the Trimaster. I have more than 4 of each and particularly for veneer my go to blade is the RK, the thin kerf and superior finish just make it the best veneer blade. The Trimaster can be resharpened but there are a limited number of resharpeners that can do it well. Others have found these but in the past I haven’t had good luck, there are a couple of resharpeners I plan to try. The RKs always come back to me as good as they were initially.

View jusfine's profile

jusfine

2280 posts in 1550 days


#3 posted 795 days ago

I have had a Lenox carbide on my General bandsaw for years, cuts like a charm.

I also have a resaw king on my Laguna which works fine too. No complaints against either, but have had the Lenox longer.

Since the Laguna is a larger and more powerful saw, I probably have used Resaw King on more exotics with no issues.

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View riooso's profile

riooso

38 posts in 1270 days


#4 posted 795 days ago

Thanks for the input. One more question if I may. Who can do the resharpening on the carbide bandsaw blades? I have been using a local guy for my circular blades and he is outstanding.

Thanks,
Richard

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7386 posts in 2272 days


#5 posted 795 days ago

Any saw shop should be able to resharpen a carbide tipped
bandsaw blade. They aren’t so heavy you can’t mail them
out if you want re-tipping or whatever.

I’m not so optimistic about a carbide tipped resaw blade
performing well in a width under 1”. Blades do tend to
wander if the gullets aren’t big enough and bigger
gullets is one of the benefits of a wider blade.

The wider the stock you insist on sawing, the trickier
resawing gets with mid-market saws. I recommend
ripping to 6” or less if possible, then resawing. For some
types of work this isn’t the right method, but for
furniture it is often acceptable and eliminates some
of the headaches of resawing wide boards.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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jusfine

2280 posts in 1550 days


#6 posted 795 days ago

Richard, your local sharpener should be able to do it.

I have had mine for quite a few years, have not sharpened it yet!

-- Randy "You are judged as much by the questions you ask as the answers you give..."

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5339 posts in 2209 days


#7 posted 795 days ago

I was told by my blade supplier that normal bandsaws travel too slowly for carbide blades he refused to sell me one saying it would be a waste of my money, was he wrong then .?I would really like to know. Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

208 posts in 1945 days


#8 posted 795 days ago

Do be so sure about any sawshop being able to do a good job on carbide bandsaw blades… they don’t use the same machines used for circular saw blades.

The 3/4” Trimaster doesn’t exhibit any “bad traits” when resawing as long as the tension is correct. A wider blade would be nice but I wouldn’t use wider than a 3/4” on the Rikon, I won’t use a TM wider than 1” on my Minimax due to tensioning. The RK you could go up to 1” since it has a thinner gauge backer, the thin kerf is better wood savings and uses less hp.

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AHuxley

208 posts in 1945 days


#9 posted 795 days ago

@ SCOTSMAN In general he is incorrect there is nothing about carbide blades that require higher speeds, though many “hobby” saws run well below optimum speed but it doesn’t perevent the use of carbide blades in any way. The real issue is can a particular saw tension the blade high enough (both the blades in question like 28,000-30,000 PSI) AND has wheels large enough to not cause metal fatigue in the band. In the end for many people bi-metal blades offer some of the benefits of carbide without the high buy-in price. The non-set and ground teeth of a carbide blade will in general leave a better finish than most non-carbide blades though.

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7386 posts in 2272 days


#10 posted 795 days ago

@SCOTSMAN – he may not understand woodcutting applications
for carbide tipped bandsaw blades. He may be thinking in
metal cutting terms.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View riooso's profile

riooso

38 posts in 1270 days


#11 posted 795 days ago

Thanks for all the information. Once again, great help.

Thanks;
Richard

View MonteCristo's profile

MonteCristo

2094 posts in 812 days


#12 posted 795 days ago

I have a lot of Lenox blades, partly because I stumbled on spectrumsupply.com where they cut the price the more you buy. They seem good. I had a TRIMASTER but I think the WOODMASTER is likely better if you are only cutting wood as the TRIMASTER is for soft metals (aluminum) and other non wood materials as well as wood. It makes sense that the WOODMASTER would be better just for wood.

Lenox got a bad repuitation for bands breaking for awhile but I think they are past that and I have had no troubles.

I have an Iturra Designs tension meter and have found that none of my three bandsaws (Delta 14”, General 20”, LT24 24”) come anywhere near the 30,000 PSI Lenox and others recommend, even with improved tension springs in them. I think the tension thing is overstated. A good sharp blade will cut well even at lower tensions. Michael Fortune is a well known cabinet maker who advocates this and I think there is something to it.

-- Dwight - "Free legal advice available - contact Dewey, Cheetam & Howe""

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

208 posts in 1945 days


#13 posted 794 days ago

The Woodmaster CT is a good blade but it has two things going against it, one it does not leave as nice of a finish (especially hand fed) as the Trimaster and certainly not the RK AND it the smallest one is 1” x .035” which is not a good candidate for a smaller saw, my MM20 can tension it correctly BUT just barely.

The Iturra tension meter is known for not being particularly repeatable which is an issue for most of the tension gauges even my Starrett since they are really designed to read much higher tensions for metal work.

Tension is important and proper tension lets one get the most out of a blade. Lower then optimum tension will allow harmonic vibrations to have higher amplitudes thus reducing the quality of the finish. Low tension also increases the tendency to barrel in the cut plus a host of other issues. Some blades respond to lower than optimum tension better than others, as a general rule carbide blades tens to respond the worst. The best thing to do is find a blade with a cross section that is condusive to proper tension on a particular saw, in the case of resaw blades reducing the width to obtain proper tension will gain you more than the loss of a 1/4” of width. This is again one area the Resaw King excels given it has a very thin gauge compared to the Lenox blades.

@ MonteCristo where did you get your uprated spring for the LT24?

View riooso's profile

riooso

38 posts in 1270 days


#14 posted 792 days ago

Thanks for the post AHuxley. Which leads me to the question what size blade should I be looking at. The Ricon that I have is the Rikon 2-1/2 HP, 18” Bandsaw, (10-345). I took a class a while back and the instructor mentioned 3/8” was fine as long as you had the blade tight enough. We were using a 14” bandsaw so the assumption I made is that a blade that size was all the 14” could handle. He was a big believer in that approach but I have not seen him since to ask him about it.

Thanks,
Richard

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7386 posts in 2272 days


#15 posted 792 days ago

Go bigger in terms of wheel diameter and go wider in terms
of blade width whenever possible. My opinion is if you want
to do a lot of resawing get a big flat-wheel saw and run as wide
a blade on it as you can.

Narrow blades will cut straight when they are fresh but they
dull quickly and start to lead and cut bellies in the boards. Wider
blades have more beam strength front to back and resist
following the grain better as they get dull.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

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