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Forum topic by steelbs posted 06-14-2012 04:20 PM 2112 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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steelbs

4 posts in 1639 days


06-14-2012 04:20 PM

I recently built a cedar table for my outside patio. I sanded it down and applied a coat of Clear Olympic Maximum Water proofing Sealant to the top. I let it dry for 2 days and sanded with 220 paper and applied a second coat and then repeated 24 hours later with a 3rd coat. I am trying to get a smooth, slick finish. I was told I could achieve that with this sealant. I am having trouble getting there. When I lightly sand before applying the next coat it gums up on the paper. I have some areas that are smooth like I want but most are not. My question is can I go and get a polyurethane and put that on top of the sealant to achieve the finish I want? Thanks for the help.


11 replies so far

View Doss's profile

Doss

779 posts in 1731 days


#1 posted 06-14-2012 04:28 PM

What is the environment that you are applying this in? Is it hot? Humid? Outside? Inside? Conditioned space?

If it’s gumming up, it sounds like it’s not curing correctly. Also, I think 220 grit is pretty rough if you’re trying to get a slick finish. I tend to go a little overkill when I’m doing slick finishes and go with 1000+ grit hand-sanded (wet if possible).

If your wood wasn’t totally slick to start with, I’m pretty sure a sealant (really thin coats) isn’t going to do it unless we’re thinking of two totally different products.

-- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss

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DamnYankee

3297 posts in 2029 days


#2 posted 06-14-2012 05:30 PM

What Doss said.

-- Shameless - Winner of two Stumpy Nubs Awards

View Bobmedic's profile

Bobmedic

312 posts in 2269 days


#3 posted 06-14-2012 05:32 PM

Ditto:)

-- Save lives, ease suffering, reduce morbidity and mortality, stomp out pestilence and disease, postpone the inevitable, and fake compassion. The Paramedics Creed

View steelbs's profile

steelbs

4 posts in 1639 days


#4 posted 06-14-2012 06:02 PM

It is outside in the carport. It has been upper 80’s and humid. It has not been as humid the last couple of days. The sealant seems to be a little better except for certain spots where it seems to gum up in half dollar size spots. I asked the man at Lowe’s and he said I couldn’t put polyurethane on top of this sealant. So, I bought 0000 steel wool and some 600 (couldn’t find 1000 at Lowe’s) grit sandpaper to run over it tonight and see if I can get a smoother finish. I have read in certain places that I shouldn’t use steel wool because it leaves small pieces behind and they can rust. Is that true? The table top is made of 1×4 pieces of cedar. The wood was originally smooth on the side I’m working with. I want a “non” wood feeling finish, if that makes sense. As you can tell, I’m not an experienced woodworker. I really appreciate the help.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4036 posts in 1818 days


#5 posted 06-14-2012 06:58 PM

If you use poly on it, you’ll regret it. It will crack and peel and eventually you will have to remove it. It sounds like the Olympic finish isn’t curing between coats. Is it an oil base finish? If so try diluting it w/ a little mineral spirits to help it cure faster.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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steelbs

4 posts in 1639 days


#6 posted 06-14-2012 06:59 PM

Do I wet my sandpaper in Mineral Spirits before running back over it? Or just wet a rag and wipe it down?

View dhazelton's profile

dhazelton

2326 posts in 1763 days


#7 posted 06-14-2012 07:09 PM

Look at Olympic’s website – that product is a penetrating sealer like Thompson’s Waterseal. It will NEVER give you a hard glossy finish – it will just continue to soak in until the wood is saturated (maybe where you are at hence the ‘gummy’ spots). If you want something hard and glossy you’ll have to let this weather a while or it will make any topcoat peel. You can also try a couple of coats of a clear paste wax if you want a bit of sheen, but if you want to topcoat after wax you need to wash the piece down with mineral spirits well.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#8 posted 06-14-2012 07:29 PM

bondogaposis is referring to thinning the actual finish you are using. Id thin it out maybe 25% so 1 part mineral spirits to 3 parts Olympic. It will help it dry faster. With an oil finish ill give the last coat almost a week to totally dry inside. Outside it could take even longer to cure. ANother idea for a topcoat would be a spar varnish, but im not totally sure that it would be compatable.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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steelbs

4 posts in 1639 days


#9 posted 06-14-2012 07:33 PM

So, here is my plan. I’m going to go home and lightly sand the top with a 600 grit paper. Then I’m going to dilute the last coat of sealant with 25% mineral spirits and apply. I will let that dry a week or so and what it is is what it will be, I guess. I greatly appreciate your help.

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chrisstef

15676 posts in 2473 days


#10 posted 06-14-2012 07:46 PM

If that topcoat is still sticky and gummy wait it out until you sand. Good Luck.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

View Doss's profile

Doss

779 posts in 1731 days


#11 posted 06-14-2012 09:18 PM

Like I said earlier and others have reiterated, if it’s the same type of sealer I think you’re talking about, it’s never going to give a poly-like finish. The problem is, now that it’s on there, I don’t know what products are compatible with it. Sounds like your Lowes guy didn’t know what he was selling you.

Thinning it will help it dry faster, but it’s not going to really change the look of it.

Check on the product and see what is compatible to put over it. There may be a product that can be added that will give you the finish you desire.

-- "Well, at least we can still use it as firewood... maybe." - Doss

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