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Forum topic by Groundwood posted 06-14-2012 03:23 AM 1136 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Groundwood's profile


6 posts in 2136 days

06-14-2012 03:23 AM

Just trying to get some help on a Roubo style bench I am planning. I just ordered 2 3×12x8 oak should be here in 7 days and picking up some walnut 1×3’s I want to have between the pieces of oak. What is going to be my best way for joining.

6 replies so far

View dakremer's profile


2664 posts in 3054 days

#1 posted 06-14-2012 03:41 AM

If u search for Roubo Bench within Lumberjocks, you’ll get tons of info. Probably quicker than waiting for people to respond to the thread. Welcome to Lumberjocks! Have fun building the bench, keep us updated and post pics!!

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


15278 posts in 2581 days

#2 posted 06-14-2012 03:55 AM

Work the edges flat and true with your jointer plane, do a rehearsal then on to glue-up! Welcome, and post pictures!!! :-)

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive --

View waho6o9's profile


8162 posts in 2540 days

#3 posted 06-14-2012 04:52 AM

Welcome to LumberJocks Groundwood.

Roubo Bench – Becoming usable – by kenn @

Roubo Workbench – by Kari Hultman @ …

Roubo Bench – by Sennelier76 @ ~

Here ya go. Post pictures when you can and have fun.

View Kelby's profile


134 posts in 2374 days

#4 posted 06-14-2012 06:27 AM

Be careful about grain orientation with your oak boards. A 3”x12” plank is very likely flatsawn. At a minimum, it will warp over time. Also, if you have the oak flatsawn while the walnut is oriented with the grain vertical (i.e., in a quartersawn orientation relative to the workbench surface), then the rate of expansion and contraction of the walnut and oak across the thickness of the workbench will be very different, and you will get significant ridges. You may even get splits. None of this is fatal for a workbench—you’ll just have to flatten the workbench surface with your handplanes more often.

To guard against this, you could rip the oak planks into 3”x3” pieces, then rotate them so the grain is quartersawn relative to the workbench surface, just like the walnut will be. This should largely reduce, if not elminate, warping and splitting. You may still get some ridges between the oak and walnut over time because different species expand and contract at different rates, but it will be much less than if you use the oak in its flatsawn state. Also, most people prefer the look of quartersawn oak to flatsawn oak.

Good luck, and please post pics!

-- Kelby

View jmos's profile


823 posts in 2332 days

#5 posted 06-14-2012 12:35 PM

If the boards are really rough you can clean up the edge on a tablesaw (attach a board with a straight edge to the timber prevent binding and kickback – will likely require two passes to cut all the way through). Also possible to clean up a face with a bandsaw, but a timber that size might be difficult to control. It’s possible to do with a router sled also (you can search this site for more details)

For final flattening for the joint, if you don’t have access to a jointer, a jointer plane is a good alternative. I’m not sure what other methods will give you a truly flat surface for glue up.

If you don’t have a jointer you can also consider having the lumber yard flatten at least one side for you (possibly even take it to S4S); might cost a few bucks, but could save you some headaches versus raw lumber.

-- John

View Groundwood's profile


6 posts in 2136 days

#6 posted 06-16-2012 02:22 AM

Thank You all for the feedback, lumber should be ready on the 20th, gonna look at it, might rip to 3×3 as suggested makes sense.

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