Acceptable amount of deviation in a V-Belt

I know you just bought the V-belt but a link belt would run smoother and last longer. If you try one I doubt that you’ll go back to V-belts.

-- Darrell, making more sawdust than I know what to do with

The problem that a few other Lumberjocks made me aware of with link belts: They’re not designed to go on a cabinet saw, or that it wont benefit from having a link belt. It’s two fixed points and the pulleys can be aligned near perfect. Link belts excel on contractor saws as the motors are suspended and the belt tension is from gravity. Oftentimes these arms are hard to align and it’s a longer distance than a cabinet saw.
That’s my interpretation of what I learned about link belts.

-- Tyrone - Canada, BC

By ‘deviate’, I’m guessing that you mean the lengths are different? Did you by a matched set or did you just pick up three individual belts?

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

The lengths are all the same. When I say, “Deviate” I mean from side to side. If I lay the belt on a table it doesn’t touch the table at all spots.

-- Tyrone - Canada, BC

8mm deviation is a lot, and i would take them back. That said – try to put more of tension on the belts by forcing the motor down with a stick levered under the table, when tigtening the mounting bolts.

Also – check that the pulleys holding the belts are coplanar with a straight edge – thereis no adjustability on your saw, but you can shim the motor mount.

I paid $80 for my 3 belts, since they had some kind of reinforcement.

-- I'm from Denmark, but live in Sweden.

I was actually taking the belts back regardless of this deviation or not. They are too short and I’m maxed out for tension adjustment.

I can’t actually set the pulleys with a straightedge as the pulleys are different and the distance to the first groove from the edge is about an 1/8” more on the drive pulley. I was thinking I could use a torpedo level and level the trunnions to the arbor pulley then shim the motor so the drive pulley is coplanar.
According to this guide here:
http://www.theadvancedteam.com/cases/Seven%20Steps%20to%20Belt%20Maintenance_white%20paper_.pdf
Misalignment should be less than 1/2degree per foot.

-- Tyrone - Canada, BC

Cogged belts are the best. They don’t have the issues of regular v belts and are exceptional for smaller diameter pulleys and far cheaper than the Fenners.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#cogged-belts/=hx3q2r

Believe it or not you don’t need three belts on a 10” saw. Proof of this is the European sliding panel saws, typically have 7.5 to 9 hp and use only one belt. The blade capacity is 12” to 18” and they don’t lack power. The three belts goes back to the days of over building saws. Years ago Powermatic switched to 2 belts. If Delta put how many belts was really needed (one belt) people would flip out and complain how much they were cheapening the saw. The triple arbor pulley is over $100.

-- Few folks really know how to maximize the potential of their tools!

Dayco has a cogged belt that would work.
http://www.accessdayco.com/Industrial.aspx
I can’t give the direct link as the way the website is setup but it’s the Dayco Gold Label Industrial VX-Wedge Belt 3VX.
I’m assuming this is very similar to the McMaster Carr belt.

-- Tyrone - Canada, BC

Gates series V80 belts are all matched for the same size and type. I use these on my cabinet saw; no problem. Link belts will stretch different amounts and will never “match”.

If I could find somewhere local that sells them, I’m going to get Gates belts.
One thing I don’t understand with them though, how do I tell what model number I need? On the Dayco and McMaster-Carr website it tells you a preset size, AX in this case then you look at the list for the length you need. I need a 25” belt so I will need the AX23. I couldn’t find anything like this on the Gates website.

-- Tyrone - Canada, BC

Anybody use Kevlar? I’ve got them on my jointer and band saw (PIX blue series) and they have worked flawlessly and seem to hold up a lot better than anything else I’ve tried.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid